UKC

Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. In this review we take a look at what's available and give our opinion on what is the best choice for your rack.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6513

In reply to UKC Gear: I'm encapsulating Timmd's fear evidently but would it kill you to use a capital N or is this too U?

In reply to UKC Gear:

It's worth mentioning that Kouba nuts back in Czech Republic cost about 17 pounds a set:
http://www.hanibal.cz/vybaveni/horolezecke-vybaveni/vklinence-friendy-a-sko...

On that shop, if you purchase over ~200 pounds, P&P is free. I am still keen to get some stuff from out there (slings, carabiners, etc.) some time later. Set of 8 cams (sizes 0.25 - 6) is 170 pounds, which is not bad price.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Do as I say...not as I do!

Nice image of a direct belay with a great 3 way pull on a snap gate!

Honestly guides these days!!

In reply to UKC Gear:

No surprises there then. What we have always used does the job great. Others are available but frankly there is no point.

A much more concise review.

I am a miserable old sod. I find it saddening that racks now look like they were bought from the early learning centre

In reply to UKC Gear:

I think this is the best review of the basic nut choices I've seen in yonks/ever.

Mostly because it justifies my choice for long routes of a set of WC Rocks, DMM Wallnuts and occasionally some WC Superlights ( with BD Swedges as true micros).

The is tried and tested in that I've also used/have BD Stoppers and Camp whatever's, offsets etc and have abandoned them over time.

Anyway, good review, thanks and nice to see some real conclusions.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Great review-I can see this link becoming the default answer to a fair few UKC posts! Interesting to learn of a few brands and products I've not seen before, but the results fairly conclusively back up the widespread popularity of rocks and wallnuts.

Mike

In reply to UKC Gear:

Agree with the others - excellent review (perhaps my view is related to the fact that it confirms the wisdom of my rack choice...)

In reply to UKC Gear:

Good review - only thing I would add is that it would have been nice to see the Zero G nuts compared as well, as it is not uncommon to see these at the Crags, especially on students due to the lower price.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Yup, great review. Could you do something similar for micro nuts?

Climbing Technology Carved Chocks now added to this review.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6513

In reply to UKC Gear:
with reference to the metolius curvenuts, their biggest drawback is the width at the narrow (wire) end of the nut - they're wider than things like rocks and wallnuts which stops them seating in some steeply tapering placements.

In reply to Toerag:


Is this actually a drawback? The Climbing Technology ones are similar, and whilst I agree that they don't sit well in steeply tapering placements, they sit better in narrower more parallel placements. In my tests with the CT nuts it actually made them more solid placements in some situations, but consequently harder to remove if 'welded' or fallen on.

Alan

In reply to 3leggeddog:




Agree entirely! On the last point, at least if you have to replace a 3 or 10 you still get it in silver.

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:



Yes it is - on multiple occasions the wide 'base' has prevented me from placing the nut in a crack that is generally 'wire width' but suddenly gets wider - almost like a pocket on the crackline. Tapering it down to virtually nothing as per a rock or wallnut would improve the placement options greatly.