UKC

I've got a number of Slate Projects to give away if anyone's interested.

Including:-
a 3 pitch sport route in Twll Mawr (2 pitches already drilled and cleaned)
An 8a+ including direct start and direct finish. (already drilled and cleaned)
A couple of Trad cracks.
A 45m single pitch (drilled and cleaned)

Get in touch if you are genuinely interested and I will let you know where they are....

A donation to the North Wales Bolt fund per project given away would be appreciated.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I've had a few emails asking for details so thought it best to put them on this thread...

3 Pitch Twll Mawr Route
Grade: P1 6c?, P2 7a, P3 6a
Top 2 pitches drilled with 10mm Holes, 1st pitch need drilling and Cleaning.
Location: To the right of 'Black Hole Sun' Top pitch to the left of the 'Black Hole Sun' Arête. The Route Tops out on the large Fin of rock on the Track level Bolts in place for Belay / Abb.

8a+ Project including a Direct Start and a separate direct finish. A really good route with a cool leftwards Dyno off a rubbish tiny foothold. Spent quite a few sessions on this!!!
Grade: At least 8a+ according to Johhny Dawes and Callum Muskett who had a go a few years ago.
Drilled and cleaned Resin Lower offs in place, 10mm Bolts and holes. (direct finish has 12mm Holes drilled)
Location: Between 'Jepp Knave' and 'The Beanstalk' on the Zippy Level marked as a project on the Topo in the Slate Guide.

Trad crack 1:
Needs cleaning with some trundling and making safe.
Location: Twll Mawr just right of the entrance tunnel, a steep crack line up a distinctive wall textured with a cool criss cross pattern. Crack leads up to the Bolt Belay on the first stance of the 2 pitch 'Imagine Dragons'
Grade: Guessing E2/3 ish?

Trad crack2:
Location: Rainbow Walls obvious cleaned crack left of 'Concorde Dawn'
Grade: I've top roped this clean felt E5 6a/b ish
Blind gear placement at the bottom, didn't want to lead it with pre placed gear so left it to be climbed in a better style. Top block may need trundling.

45 metre single Pitch
All drilled with a few bolts in place, cleaned and drilled this quite a few years ago abandoned this due to it being a seepage line though would have been great this last dry summer.
Location: Colossus Wall, a groove system on the far right hand side start by a flake.
Grade: from what I remember probably 6b ish climbing up to a crux at the top which would push it into the 7's.

Please make a donation to the North Wales Bolt Fund on completion of any of the above projects.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Good work. It always amazed me how much unclimbed stuff there was around the level of department c. A lot of it looked pretty bold - potential for some proper death routes perhaps?

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Loads of stuff still to do, are you going to get yourself back on the slate? Not sure when you were last down here but would be good to see a few bold 'Franco' additions on the slate, loads of really big stuff in Twll Mawr......

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I dunno about that, but it seemed like there was certainly potential for something like the crux of Dawes Of Perception in a dangerous position. What sort of areas would be best-suited to positive, reachy slab climbing?

In reply to Franco Cookson:
The 8a+ I've already mentioned would be much easier with a long reach. As far as bold trad is concerned there must be loads of potential all over the quarries. I don't have the guide at hand but as far as I know there's not been any big E grades added for quite some time....a route with a big E grade would be a great addition to complement Caff's desperate 9a sport route - 'The Meltdown'. It has to be said that any new bold additions would have to be of sufficient quality to be worthy of the risk involved in climbing them, there's plenty of scarey choss to be climbed but in my opinion would be pointless additions. I won't answer your 'reachy slab' question, being a Hobbit reachy problems are for tall cheats

One last Bump...

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Hi Ian

Too hard for the likes of us, methinks. But..

Harold and I have begun a multi-pitch route to the left of Hamydryad - we have started to equip it and it is still definitely a project we are working on. Thought I would mention it so nobody mistakes it for any of the open projects you are offering up.

As a matter of interest, how come you don't intend to complete these yourself?

Cheers

Colin

In reply to colin struthers:
Great to see another team new routing in Twll Mawr, I had considered bolting something left of 'Hamadryad' but after the huge task of Bolting 'The Desolation of Smaug' I don't think I will be returning to the back wall anytime soon.

The reasons for the project giveaway are many, mainly a way of 'clearing my desk' and getting rid of too many distractions and also a lack of focus and motivation at the moment.

Route specific reasons...

The 8a+ - way too hard for me and I've spent too much time on it in the past, but it's a really cool route and it would be a great addition to the quarries, especially considering that there's not so many grade 8 routes on the slate.

The Twll Mawr 3 pitch route - can't be bothered with the time and effort required and the cost of the bolts, it's also not as good as the neighbouring routes 'Black Hole Sun' and 'Supermassive Black Hole'.

The 45m route on Collosus Wall - I abandoned this years ago when it became apparent that it was a seepage line, having said that would be a very good route on a great crag in a long dry period.

The Trad Cracks - I'm a sport climber!