UKC

Beta request - Clashing socks - Brean

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 Ian Bell 20 Oct 2014
Tried this yesterday going to the right on the sidepulls after the roof. That felt hard, just about do-able and maybe off route. Have heard you can also go straight up although that looks nails. Anyone have any beta to share?
 remus Global Crag Moderator 20 Oct 2014
In reply to Ian Bell:

I think both options climb fairly well, sticking more to the face is probably around hard 7b and using the sidepulls out right is probably more soft 7b.

I stuck more to the face when I did it. From memory, i used a sidepull just above the break with my right, got a rubbish little nubbin with my left and went right to the good flat hold. I then went left out to a small but positive sidepull, put in a drop knee, went for a crimp in a dish with my right and then did a bit of a pop for the next hold. Can't remember much after that but it wasn't overly taxing.
OP Ian Bell 21 Oct 2014
thanks for the advice, if i was doing it the soft 7b way i hate to think how difficult the more direct way is going to feel! think I didn't find the 'small but positive sidepull' on the left when I tried it so might give that a try.


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