UKC

Nice long routes

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 Derry 24 Oct 2014
Looking for the next mission to get excited about. Nice long, semi-exposed, fairly (but not too) easy route. Went up the Puig Campana earlier this year as well as the eastern alps, and am just back from North Wales so a few must do's ticked off my list.

So... where to next??? any suggestions here or abroad are very welcome.

Cheers

 d_b 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:
How not too difficult?
Post edited at 14:19
OP Derry 24 Oct 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Like grade HS or VS 4b/4c or sport grade 6a and below, without it being a scramble.
 JJL 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

"Easy" is in the eye of the beholder but if you went up the usual route on Puig (4+?) then
- get to the Dollies. Stacked with fine spires, aretes, slabs of 10-20 pitches in great surroundings; or
- go to the western pyrennees; Dent d'Orlu has some great long bolted routes; or
- tick the Nordekante on Piz badile; or
- head for Morocco; or
- further afield visit Toulumne meadows (or Snake Dyke in Yosemite)
 tjekel 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

In Austria,

have a look at Dachstein, Gesäuse, Hochkönig - routes in all grades from one to 50 pitches, both sport and rebolted trad requiring gear;

In Switzerland, and for granite, its difficult to beat Furka, Grimsel and the Göschenental (Salbit, Bergsee), Braglia has been mentioned above.

You might also have a look at Croatia (Paklenica) for an out of season trip.
 d_b 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:
You are going to get all the usual classics on here, so I'll pop in a few obscure UK ones.

There's a good vdiff (going on HS) on A'Mhaighdean that's worth a look. Remote enough that getting to it is a bit of an expedition. Some other routes there I want to look at.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=150487

Pencoed pillar on Cadair Idris is a bit of a fun adventure. 180m ish iirc, but wait for a drought! Again, disregard the grade, as it doesn't give a true indication of what it's like. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40548

There's a long ridge route, the name of which escapes me, running up from the end of Loch Coruisk. Goes at abotu vd/severe. I haven't done it yet so can't say more than that.

High on my list is a 300m Severe on carnedd y filiast by the name of Hawkwind. Need to get good at runouts!
Post edited at 15:06
 Trangia 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

Western Cape, South Africa.

Some of the best climbing in the World with plenty of choice long multi pitch route in your grade on Table Mountain, including Africa Crag and Fountain Ledge both climbs are hundreds of feet long with great exposure overlooking Cape Town.

Or about an hours drive from Cape Town is the classic Fledermaus at Du Toits Kloof (again in your grade). About 800 feet of sheer pleasure with fabulous exposure.

Cape Town is about 11 or 12 hours direct flight from London and the great advantage is that it's almost the same Longitude so almost same time zone and no jet lag. Also English is spoken and they drive on the left. Best months are October to March although it does get hot in December and January. May be rainy in June/July and August
 Elsier 24 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

As others have mentioned there are lots of nice easy long routes in the Andermatt area of Switzerland and the Dolomites as well as the Bregaglia.

Wadi Rum in Jordan is also good for long routes of up to VS (all the Bedouin routes) although they do have a bit more of an adventurous feel to them, with difficult route finding and descents.

The normal route on Stetind in northern Norway is a nice mainly scrambly long route with just one pitch of about severe (quite exposed) pretty fantastic summit. I think there might be some other longs routes in that area too, and you've also got Lofoten close by which has some long easy routes like the North ridge of Vagakallen.

Closer to home there's tons in Scotland- for example you can do all the 5 ridges on Ben Nevis if you want a really long day!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 26 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

A bit predictable perhaps but everyone should do the 'Fedele' on the North West Face of Sass Pordoi - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=119722

And the Piaz Arete at the Vajolet towers - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=113862

I'll stop there. There are loads of fantastic routes at the grade in the Dolomites though.

Good luck wherever you end up!
OP Derry 27 Oct 2014
In reply to Derry:

Thanks everyone. some great food for thought. Especially Croatia, hadn't really considered it amongst some of the other giants of multipitch climbing.

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