UKC

Move over Fontainebleau, Lancashire bouldering has come of age. That doesn't mean it's gone mouldy, though of course if this was a cheese metaphor, the Bleausards would still be salivating. For years, gritstone boulderers have flocked to Yorkshire and the Peak District to sate their friction addictions. But there is a third option, another county with another collection of crags that are well worth travelling to. Yes, it's Lancashire.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6779

In reply to UKC Articles: OMG. A well written, literate and engaging bit of writing there; in fact that's the overall standard of the guidebook in a nutshell. Even if you don't go bouldering it's worth buying, and reading, and then going bouldering for the first time. 10/10 for the book, no question about that.

In reply to Frank the Husky:
The new guide prompted me to go back to Denham and do some tidying on Saturday given the so-so forecast.

Spent the afternoon cleaning the loose flakes off and stabilising the damaged rock after the fire a couple of years ago which trashed the crux section of the "Denham Traverse" and the direct "Crack Pot". I've also contacted SafeStyle UK about cleaning up all their marketing material and customer data that's been fly-tipped/half burned in the quarry.

I re-climbed the traverse - we've lost a fair few of the small holds from the original and the new line goes slightly higher than the old one - IIRC actually only using one "new" hand hold (and a few new foot nubbins) so it's changed the crux of the problem quite significantly, though not the grade.

Video here: youtube.com/watch?v=4vLol0ml-Pw&

The direct through the fire damage "Crack Pot" is probably climbable, but the first hand hold is still crumbly so take care (the hold near my waist at about 1:30). I didn't do it - so your call.

I also abbed and cleaned the un-repeated Snatch 8A.

And Jordan went and flashed the 7C+ in baby Denham

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article and guidebook, thanks.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Awesome to see peopel getting psyched for little old Lancashire

In reply to UKC Articles:

Almost makes me wish I still lived in Clitheroe

In reply to pasbury:

Don't believe anyone would wish that one.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article, sold me on purchasing a copy!

In reply to UKC Articles:

"Sometimes it even hands out party bags when everybody goes home." pmsl..

nice write up Robin

In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks everyone! Glad you all enjoyed the article, and thanks for the guidebook praise!

Hopefully the boulderers will be out in force this winter, and some of Lancashire's classics will get attention. It's interesting that lots of people have bought the book and headed to the quarries - I expected the natural grit to be the main focus. Clearly, Lancashire inspires discerning characters!

Well done JR for sorting out Denham. It's a shame that some of our crags get this sort of abuse, but great that people like you are making the effort to look after them.

In recent times there have been some brilliant clean ups in the quarries, mostly led by super keen individuals. These people deserve medals! Tim Greenhalgh at Ousel's Nest. Derek Kenyon and the MOB at Deeply Vale. Rick Ginns at Wilton 4. John Proud at Crowshaw. Mark Collins in the Anglezarke area. Les Ainsworth here, there and everywhere. Probably lots of others I don't even know about. Well done to everyone who has made the effort!

In reply to robin mueller:

Couldnt agree more. Every forgotten crag has its moment every so often and its thanks to a small few that put in the effort.

In reply to robin mueller:

Thanks Robin.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article Robin, good to see quality mountain writing alive and well.

In reply to rooroo:

Thanks!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Here's a great blog post from Skinny Dog, all about rediscovering adventure, new horizons and Lancashire bouldering...

http://skinnydogbouldering.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/new-from-old.html

In reply to robin mueller:

For everyone interested in Lancashire bouldering, we'll be doing a Blackstone Edge Gathering and guidebook launch this Saturday at Blackstone Edge. Come along!

Thread here. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=601807&v=1#x7918104

Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/events/726361740773979/?ref=22

In reply to robin mueller:

Thanks to everyone who came along! Great to see everyone enjoying some Blackstone classics, even the Yorkshiremen!

For everyone who wanted to come but couldn't, I'll organise another one this winter.

On another note, barely a week goes by without new problems being done. Thorn Crag, Blackstone, Cadshaw and Troy have all had brilliant additions recently - it's worth checking the new problems page of the website before you head out to the rock, this is designed to be used In conjunction with the guidebook. There are also links to pics and vids where available. http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/

In reply to UKC Articles:

Definitely the best guidebook available for the UK, Lancashire is back on the map!