UKC Forums - BD Couloir Harness alternatives?

BD Couloir Harness alternatives?

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Bob_the_Builder 29 Oct 2014

I'm looking for a lightweight harness for Alpine routes and ski touring. The BD Couloir seems to be the one for the job, but are there better alternatives? Is it worth it?

Stephen Reid - Needle Sports 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

A DMM Super Couloir Harness is a better winter climbing harness in my opinion - more gear loops.

A Blue Ice Choucas Harness is lighter.

See: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Harnesses/Alp...

OP Bob_the_Builder 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

It looks like you've just provided me with two better options!

How do they compare to fiddle about with while wearing gloves?

Stephen Reid - Needle Sports 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

Much the same to be honest as they are basically all the same design. They really aren't much of a fiddle and they are by far the easiest harness design to put on when wearing skis or crampons as you do not need to take your feet off the ground. They are definitely easier to don if it's blowing a hoolie than a buckled leg loop harness as the triangular shape of the thing when undone means it is less likely to end up in a tangle.

Personally I use a DMM Super Couloir for everything wintery, though I am tempted by the Choucas for ski touring!

Dave Williams 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

+1 for the DMM Super Couloir.

Very well-designed, simple, lightweight and comfortable, mine is an absolute delight to use in winter. As Stephen says, it can be put on and taken off while wearing crampons and it's glove-friendly too.

The design of the BD Couloir is very similar though ... so similar that I do wonder if the DMM Super Couloir gave BD's designers some inspiration.

HTH

Dave

top cat 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

I have a BD C and don't rate it at all. In fact it is such a poor fit I've never used it in anger. It sits very low and in my view is not fit for purpose as a ski touring harness: centre of gravity too low.

I think I'm going to chop it up for the buckles !

OwenM 29 Oct 2014

In reply to top cat:

Centre of gravity too low?

How do you work that out, it fit just the same as all sit harnesses, around your waist and thighs and ties on in the same place, by your belly button.

woollardjt 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

I tried the BD couloir and just didn't like the fit. I then bought the dmm super couloir and use it for all my winter climbing and love it, surprisingly comfortable considering how minimal it is.

I also have a blue ice choucas and it's great for ski touring, but it's super light weight puts me off of using it for hard climbing

Damo 29 Oct 2014

In reply to top cat:

> I have a BD C and don't rate it at all. In fact it is such a poor fit I've never used it in anger. It sits very low ...

+1

I found exactly the same thing. I couldn't figure out how it was so bad, as most harnesses fit me and I'd used BD Bods for years. I actually sold mine and bought a second one, smaller, in case I'd got the fit wrong, but it was just as bad.

I now use a Petzl Hirundos which is pretty much as light but much better fit and comfort, though fixed leg loops. If I think I need unbuckling legs I go back to my Alpine Bod. I might try a DMM SC next time.

OP Bob_the_Builder 29 Oct 2014

In reply to woollardjt:

I was thinking of using it just for ski touring and the sort of alpine stuff where you don't really expect to fall, lots of moving together type stuff. So no need for the extra gear loops or any added weight. But if the DMM Super Couloir would work for Scottish winter it is tempting, especially for the price difference. I can't afford to buy both!

angry pirate 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

Joining the pro-super couloir chorus. Brilliant for winter use but I used mine for a year or so for trad and indoor too and it was a solid performer there too.
I will be replacing mine like-for-like when the time comes!

TobyA 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

I have had two alpine bods so used them over two decades (for years at the start my first one was my everything harness), they are fine (and now super cheap it seems at Needlesports!) but the design is old now and they aren't particularly light by modern standards. Camp do some super light ski touring harnesses too that Stephen doesn't have in his range, somewhere like Telemark Pyrenees will have a big selection of ski touring harnesses and their prices are always good. I think if you want it for climbing as well though consider a lightweight "normal" harness, like Damo suggested. I reviewed the Arcteryx one http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=5228 for UKC, but have since used it ski touring too. Some days I have just put it on at the road and worn it all day with no problems at all http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=229653 but with most modern bindings its hardly an epic job to stop and put it on unless you leave it way too late and are trying to do it on icy 40 degree slope!

Kai 29 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

+1 for the Super Couloir.

An excellent alpine harness.

top cat 30 Oct 2014

In reply to OwenM:

> (In reply to top cat)
>
> Centre of gravity too low?
>
> How do you work that out, it fit just the same as all sit harnesses, around your waist and thighs and ties on in the same place, by your belly button.

The problem is the length of the belay loop. I think there is a technical term for the drop between the waist belt [fitted round the waist, not the hips!]and the leg loops. With the BD C it is too short for a waist fit [on me any way]

The cruical thing in a touring harness is that you don't invert when you drop down that crevasse wearing a sack. I use a DMM Alpine harness now: the tie in point is very high. The only way I could use the BD C is to add a chest harness, which defeats having a super light weight sit harness.

OP Bob_the_Builder 30 Oct 2014

In reply to TobyA:

I normally wear my harness from the start on an alpine day, it seems easier. Maybe I'm just lucky with my old harness but I've never found it uncomfortable. However its the days you don't think you'll need a harness that really catch you out, like planning on soloing a route but then the ice turns out a lot harder than you expected.

I think my keys are low weight, low bulk, and lowish price. I'm not sure about whether I want to use it for Scottish winter climbing, that hadn't really occurred to me but if people reckon the DMM one or similar would be comfortable enough then it is a possibility. That would mean more gear loops the better.

Luckily you haven't complicated my decision much, although I would like an Arcteryx harness one day that one looks a lot like the same thing for twice the price. =]

GrantM 30 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

DMM SC being discounted by Sports Direct on ebay at the moment.

TobyA 30 Oct 2014

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:

I think so many "general" harnesses have gotten so much lighter, that now my normal do-everything harness DMM Renegade is about the same weight as an Alpine Bod, the superlight harness of 20 years ago! So there's not much to lose, using a general harness for all climbing adventures - cragging, winter, alpine etc, and having a really superlight one for ski trips. But of course a lightish one for winter climbing and touring, then a comfy one for summer cragging is another way.

How big/small are you? Telemark Pyrenees have a bunch of harnesses at half price but mainly they seem to be size small e.g. http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/campcoral-p-10924.html