UKC

I am looking to find a different destination for my holidays next year (instead of Alps) I like long easy multi pitch climbs. Would be good if I could combine climbs with culture - any suggestions? Might also be looking for a partner to go with me!

In reply to gilly:

I've some ideas, but one person's easy is another person's hard.

What kind of thing is easy to you? What are you looking for?

Trad or bolted, moutaineering style routes or just long days out on rock?

In reply to gilly:

Tiptoe Ridge at Arapiles, Australia is my wife's favourite route! Seven pitches of straightforward but varied climbing (diff/v.diff standard), and then an easy descent path.

The campsite at Arapiles was great as well.

In reply to gilly:

El Potrero Chico, Nuevo Leon, Mexico.

Long, easy, sport-bolted, rappel-off multi-pitch climbs. Mexico would be a different cultural experience, too.

In reply to gilly:

Wadi Rum?

CB

In reply to gilly:

Tafraoute area, Morocco?

In reply to gilly:

If you mean up to say VS or UIAA V then

Meteora - bolted up to 8 pitches; amazing scenery; may be closed but lovely monasteries and hermitages
Dolomites - trad; up to around 20 pitches; go via venice?
Dent d'Orlu (Pyrennees) - bolted; up to 30 pitches; some nice provincial towns
Costa Blanca - bolted or trad; up to 10 pitches; a bit low on culture
Picos d'Europa - as Costa Blanca, with less concrete but more rain
Tuolumne meadows - trad; up to around 10 pitches; 'Murica though
Slovenia - as Dollies but fewer people
Morocco - trad mostly; sun guaranteed
Mexico - as poster above
Norway - trad; rain guaranteed

In reply to gilly:

How long is long?

In reply to gilly:

and how easy is easy

In reply to gilly:

How about a South West Africa tour? Table Mountain, Du Toit's Kloof, Cedarberg, Spitzkoppe, taking in various beaches, vinyards, river rafting, Etosha, bushman art, Namib Desert, Skeleton Coast... how long have you got?

Alternatively, loads to go at in California even without Yosemite.

In reply to gilly:

High Tatra in Slovakia is full of mostly 4-10 pitch long UIAA III.-V. trad routes on granite.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

One of the Richard Else TV series from the 90s had an episode with Joe Simpson and Ed February climbing what looked like a brilliant rock route in S. Africa. I can't recall the series name but it was one of the better ones. Anyway the rock looked superb and pretty amenable.

In reply to gilly:

Practically anywhere that has rock will have what you are looking for. I have a mate who seeks out the more esoteric places. Slovakia, Poland, rural Spain, Croatia, Greece, you name it.

In reply to Removed User:

Energy Crisis at Wolfberg, Cedarberg. Not sure I'd call the first pitch amenable (and they had a big cam, as I recall!)

But, yes, Cedarberg has lots of classic easy routes in superb scenery, and it's on the way from Cape town to Namibia!

In reply to gilly:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33523

In reply to proandras:


Any more details / information on this?

In reply to gilly:

idwal slabs has everything you're looking for.

In reply to Ramblin dave:
In general:
http://www.summitpost.org/high-tatras-vysok-tatry/154185

Lots of topo, with limited English description about approach and descents:
http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/vthse.php

Guidebooks:
http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/kniha.html however most of the routes are on the site above too

For example, popular peaks:
http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/stenae.php?kod=00230813:Baranie-rohy:2536

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/stenae.php?kod=09870817:Volia-ve%9Ea:2355

Only problem is the daily 2-3 hour long approches from the lower huts. Otherwise, upper huts (Zbojnicka or Teryho chata) are 2-3 hours from the parking site.

In reply to gilly:

How about the Aladaglar, Turkey. Loads of long routes of all grades, some trad, some with fixed pitons / bolts. Its not too hot once in the mountains if you are looking to go in the summer, and the area is big enough to have plenty of solitude if you wish.

In reply to gilly:

Thanks for all these suggestions (I have done a few of them already) Up to VS, Long ? 4-5 pitches is good all day routes even better.

In reply to gilly:


Then have you considered the USA (sorry if this covered by someone else). Easy to get a partner, lots of VS, lot of 4-15 pitch routes. Start in Yosemite and the Meadows (cool in summer), then head high if you want a more mountain feel. One nice thing about the US is the bivving with the bears rather than the Euro hut thing.

In reply to gilly:

I was impressed this September by Tahquitz Rocks in southern California. Long climbs (up to 7 pitches) at all grades. But I would think too hot in mid-summer, if that's when you plan to go.

While in the area we took in some culture on a trip to San Diego - Mt Palomar, Aerospace Museum, etc.

In reply to gilly:

Morocco's a top choice if you're looking for something a bit culturally different... And the weather's pretty reliable

http://www.climb-tafraout.com/top-ten-mountain-routes.php