UKC

Can anyone advise what the general winter mountaineering is like in the Spanish Sierra Nevada? I have skied there several times but never climbed.

I have no specific climbing routes in mind just looking for general mountaineering (roped winter scrambling/easy climbing up to about UK winter grade III ). Happy to wander all over a crag/face picking out lines that interest me than following a guide book route etc

Additional question

What is the graded winter climbing like up to grade V?

Just having general thoughts as I am hoping to be out there skiing again this winter and thinking about taking my axes and some climbing gear.

In reply to Alan M:

Hi Alan,

There are a couple of guidebooks (in Spanish) to both icefalls and winter routes in the Sierra Nevada. I'm in the U.K. for a few weeks but can forward the details of them to you early in December.

There's loads of grade 1, 2 and 3 gullies around to solo though they usually have a long walk in which may not be so good for you if you are staying in or near the ski resort. At Hoya de la Mora near the ski resort there are lots of short ice climbs beneath the army base. A lot of people top rope the routes there. Also amongst the rocks on the ridge above the University Alberge also at Hoya de la Mora.

We've got a winter skills course running the 1st week in February which includes an ascent of Mulhacen.

I'll send you details direct in about a month. If I forget, mail me .

mike

In reply to Alan M:

For alpine type ridges try Los Raspones, NW ridge of Cerro de Cartujo, NE ridge of Mulhacén, traverse of Puntal de la Caldera or the ridge between Cerro de los Machos to Veleta (finish up summer VD Fidel Ferero to summit).

For easier gullies the east side Raspones provides quite good sport and is close to the guarded Refugio Poqueira

Classic snow climbs on the north side (all at alpine AD/AD+) are
Canuto de Veleta
Espolon de Puntal de la Caldera
North canuto of Cerro de los Machos
NE ridge of Cerro de los Machos
Mulhacen N face - long routes and lots here but needs to be in good condition
Espolon de Alcazaba - a classic but is remote (reached from Güejar Sierra)

There is lots more but most routes will require use of unmanned refuges/bivvy. If you want more info about specific climbs then mail me. Happy to help.