UKC

Hello,

Shall be around the St Helens area on Sunday and looking at getting a bit of climbing in.

I am not familiar with the area at all and looking for the best climbing crag to go to, if the weather holds up?

1. Ideally no more then 30KM away from St Helens and not a long walk in, to maximise our climbing time.

2. A fair amount of climbs around S-VS grades

3. Would prefer Trad but don't mind if it is Sport.

I have used the 'Find Crag' function on UKC and Anglezarke Quarry looks like a possibility? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

In reply to lynchit:

Pex Hill is like 5 mins away! Take a helmet (to protect from flying bottles).

In reply to Removed User:

Isn't that Bouldering only?

In reply to lynchit:
It hits that boundary of what you should lead and what you could boulder, it's 10-12m max iirc. It'll be wet though atm and there's not much there that's S-VS. I was mostly joking though, I just mention it because it's like 5min from St Helens.

In reply to lynchit:

There's a bit of leading at Pex but it's really a solo venue with a side order of top roping. Sport you've got Frogsmouth but bigger grades. Various other Lancashire quarries, some of which only their mother's could really love. If it rains, BeBoulder Widnes, NW Face or into Liverpool for Awesome Walls, etc.

In reply to lynchit:

If you've never been, Helsby would be worth a look for trad. It has a reputation for bold leads but top ropes are easy to rig and the climbing is good. Pex Hill is very close to St Helens, with some good bouldering and top roping in S-VS range.

Your nearest sport would be Frogsmouth Qy, but the climbing around the F4-5 level is a bit limited. If you end up indoors the Liverpool walls are fine, as is NW face at Warrington.

In reply to chubbs2:

Thanks everyone for their replies. It would seem that Helsby and Pex Hill are the two choices.

Is there any reason why none of you have recommended Anglezarke Quarry?


Thanks

In reply to lynchit:

Not really Anglezarke is a good crag, it's just it's not as close as the others. Google reckons 24 miles and about an hours drive from St.Helens. Your call - fingers crossed for your weather.

By the way if you do go to Helsby, make sure you do Flake Crack VS 5a. Good TR anchors at the top if you don't fancy leading it, but easily protectable with friends.

In reply to lynchit:

Though I rate Pex Hill very highly, for leading at S-VS it's not a good option. Most of the Lancashire quarries are green and cold in the winter months, but Anglezarke has some areas that that catch the sun and it has lots of easier climbs. Some of the VSs there (like, say, Metamophosis) may seem a bit harshly graded if there's been sand dribbling on to the holds, which there usually has after rain.

Helsby is another possibility but only gets sun later in the day.

In reply to lynchit:

Another option could be Hobson Moor. Not picturesque, and a little more than 30km away, but it's motorway all the way and it's a 1 minute walk-in. A couple of really good VS and HVS routes to go at, and catches the sun in winter.

In reply to lynchit:

Helsby is a great crag but I wouldn't recommend it at the moment as the rock will be somewhat weak after a lot of rain recently. Sandstone is very easily damaged when damp.

In reply to lynchit:

Denham Quarry maybe?

It's a bit further, but a lot faster, straight up the M6, 30mins ish. Zero walk in.

It has a very good VS. Some easier stuff over on the left. Also some good routes that would be vs/hvs if they weren't so bold. Decent posts for top roping if you want.

Steve