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Has this been asked before? What are the 10 best* climbing books? I think I'd start my list off with "the games climbers play" and "classic rock"...
*yeah i know... Very hard to define, working that out is going to be part of the fun of the discussion.
*yeah i know... Very hard to define, working that out is going to be part of the fun of the discussion.
In reply to Dom Whillans:
mine would include
walter bonatti " the mountains of my life" is written so well you can almost visualise the landscape.
maurice herzog "annapurna".
I really liked Ron Fawcetts Rock Athlete and also Jim Perrin's "the Villain" but I'v heard other people say this is unfairly harsh on don whillans.
I didnt get on with The Hard Years much, found it a bit of a plod, but still essential reading
The white spider. obv.
And Anderl Heckmair "My Life" for a balancing view on the eiger and also a really enjoyable read in its own right - Heckmair comes across as much more modest and likeable than Harrer
The Ascent of Rum Doodle would have to be in there!
Peak Rock is a fascinating read into the history of the Peak except that you could come away from it thinking no women had ever climbed there other than Airlie Anderson and katy whittaker (who get about a paragraph each)
slightly off topic - anyone who climbs in Rjukan really ought to read "skis against the atom" by Knut Haukelid who led the Norwegian sabotage team at Rjukan. You'll never look at the gorge or power plant the same way again.
thats my ten
mine would include
walter bonatti " the mountains of my life" is written so well you can almost visualise the landscape.
maurice herzog "annapurna".
I really liked Ron Fawcetts Rock Athlete and also Jim Perrin's "the Villain" but I'v heard other people say this is unfairly harsh on don whillans.
I didnt get on with The Hard Years much, found it a bit of a plod, but still essential reading
The white spider. obv.
And Anderl Heckmair "My Life" for a balancing view on the eiger and also a really enjoyable read in its own right - Heckmair comes across as much more modest and likeable than Harrer
The Ascent of Rum Doodle would have to be in there!
Peak Rock is a fascinating read into the history of the Peak except that you could come away from it thinking no women had ever climbed there other than Airlie Anderson and katy whittaker (who get about a paragraph each)
slightly off topic - anyone who climbs in Rjukan really ought to read "skis against the atom" by Knut Haukelid who led the Norwegian sabotage team at Rjukan. You'll never look at the gorge or power plant the same way again.
thats my ten
Post edited at 11:49
In reply to Dom Whillans:
as above: bonatti's Mountains of my life, maurice herzog's annapurna and the white spider.
I also really enjoyed Starlight and storm (etoiles et tempetes) by gaston rebuffat.
just finished savage arena by joe tasker and really enjoyed that
as above: bonatti's Mountains of my life, maurice herzog's annapurna and the white spider.
I also really enjoyed Starlight and storm (etoiles et tempetes) by gaston rebuffat.
just finished savage arena by joe tasker and really enjoyed that
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Out of the older ones, I loved White Spider but I didn't enjoy Annapurna (seems popular with everyone else though!).
A more modern one I thought was great is Freedom Climbers. I also love the Johnny Dawes autobiography, but I know others who don't get on with it at all.
Out of the older ones, I loved White Spider but I didn't enjoy Annapurna (seems popular with everyone else though!).
A more modern one I thought was great is Freedom Climbers. I also love the Johnny Dawes autobiography, but I know others who don't get on with it at all.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
ooh yes, I forgot the Johnny dawes book, I really enjoyed that too, had the virtue of being quite thoughtful and introspective rather than just "I climbed this, it was 'ard but we got up it".
ooh yes, I forgot the Johnny dawes book, I really enjoyed that too, had the virtue of being quite thoughtful and introspective rather than just "I climbed this, it was 'ard but we got up it".
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Like everybody else, I'd say Bonatti's 'Mountains of my life' would be up there.
I wouldn't put Herzog's 'Annapurna' on my list, mainly because of what I've since read about Herzog and the way he treated the rest of his team.
Herman Buhl's 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' is on my list
Galen Rowell's 'In the Throne Room of the Gods' is a great read, but mainly because of the tensions in the team, rather than the climbing exploits.
Bernadette McDonald's biography of Charles Houston, 'Brotherhood of the Rope' is excellent, as is Stephen Venables' 'Everest, Kangshung Face'
Like everybody else, I'd say Bonatti's 'Mountains of my life' would be up there.
I wouldn't put Herzog's 'Annapurna' on my list, mainly because of what I've since read about Herzog and the way he treated the rest of his team.
Herman Buhl's 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' is on my list
Galen Rowell's 'In the Throne Room of the Gods' is a great read, but mainly because of the tensions in the team, rather than the climbing exploits.
Bernadette McDonald's biography of Charles Houston, 'Brotherhood of the Rope' is excellent, as is Stephen Venables' 'Everest, Kangshung Face'
In reply to pebbles:
I liked it. I thought it was extremely well written and seemed pretty even-handed. It's no hagiography but Whillans came across as a very talented but believably flawed character.
Actually, I have fairly low tolerance of climbing books, especially expedition accounts, but I'd agree that the White Spider is essential and Psychovertical is an interesting take on how to describe a particular ascent.
Others I've enjoyed recently include High Endeavours (the biography of Robin Smith), Fiva, of course, and Sharper Edges (Andy de Klerk's autobiography - but my judgement is probably biased by knowing him and many of the places and characters he refers to).
> also Jim Perrin's "the Villain" but I'v heard other people say this is unfairly harsh on don whillans.
I liked it. I thought it was extremely well written and seemed pretty even-handed. It's no hagiography but Whillans came across as a very talented but believably flawed character.
Actually, I have fairly low tolerance of climbing books, especially expedition accounts, but I'd agree that the White Spider is essential and Psychovertical is an interesting take on how to describe a particular ascent.
Others I've enjoyed recently include High Endeavours (the biography of Robin Smith), Fiva, of course, and Sharper Edges (Andy de Klerk's autobiography - but my judgement is probably biased by knowing him and many of the places and characters he refers to).
Post edited at 12:41
In reply to Dom Whillans:
My top 7, in order, best first,
*The Black Cliff, Crew/Soper/Wilson
*Annapurna, Herzog
*Everest - The West Ridge, Hornbein
*The Villain, Perrin
*Psychovertical, Kirkpatrick
*The Ascent of Rum Doodle, Bowman
*Unjustifiable Risk? The Story of British Climbing, Thompson
My top 7, in order, best first,
*The Black Cliff, Crew/Soper/Wilson
*Annapurna, Herzog
*Everest - The West Ridge, Hornbein
*The Villain, Perrin
*Psychovertical, Kirkpatrick
*The Ascent of Rum Doodle, Bowman
*Unjustifiable Risk? The Story of British Climbing, Thompson
In reply to Dom Whillans:
The White Spider - of course
Fiva - No bias to Gordon being of this parish, simply gripping. The innocence, the scale, the happy ending
Touching the Void - seems jaded now somehow, but it was such a read in my nascent climbing days. I recall going 'oh no' out loud when he fell in the crevasse after THE incident
I chose to Climb - Again, seems mainstream doesn't it, but it was of an era, wasn't it? I remember being struck by the attrition rate in those days, and how they managed to carry on
Mountains of the Mind - wonderfully written, if a little pompous at times
Eiger Direct - Ghost written/partnered with Dougal Haston, but his psychoses come through. Harlin's death is awful in it's effect
Troll Wall - Can you see a theme here?...I do like the old siege days..........again, the innocent confidence
And my real curved ball, The Spirit of the Hills - Frank Smythe. the first book I ever read that absolutely described how I felt in so many situations, albeit in his arcane and learned language. A gem, which my wife bought from a jumble sale!
The White Spider - of course
Fiva - No bias to Gordon being of this parish, simply gripping. The innocence, the scale, the happy ending
Touching the Void - seems jaded now somehow, but it was such a read in my nascent climbing days. I recall going 'oh no' out loud when he fell in the crevasse after THE incident
I chose to Climb - Again, seems mainstream doesn't it, but it was of an era, wasn't it? I remember being struck by the attrition rate in those days, and how they managed to carry on
Mountains of the Mind - wonderfully written, if a little pompous at times
Eiger Direct - Ghost written/partnered with Dougal Haston, but his psychoses come through. Harlin's death is awful in it's effect
Troll Wall - Can you see a theme here?...I do like the old siege days..........again, the innocent confidence
And my real curved ball, The Spirit of the Hills - Frank Smythe. the first book I ever read that absolutely described how I felt in so many situations, albeit in his arcane and learned language. A gem, which my wife bought from a jumble sale!
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Sort of - although there's a bit of sleight of hand where he sort of implies that he'd lost a lot of friends through being a dick to people while basically avoiding the issue of how much of a dick he was. Which is understandable in an autobiography, of course, but I think it stops short of being the full confessional.
He describes the physical side of climbing better than anyone I've ever read though. And it's generally very good. Deals very interestingly with someone whose sense of self-worth is massively entwined with their achievements in a certain activity, what happens when their achievement starts to drop off, and the search for a sense of purpose afterwards - something which I guess you could apply a lot more broadly.
Other stuff:
Jim Perrin - The Villain, as previously mentioned, and also
Jim Perrin - Shipton and Tilman, which is a brilliant book about the joy of mountain exploration as opposed to summit bagging and self-sufficient lightweight expeditions as opposed to siege tactics.
Tom Patey - One Man's Mountains for the great vignettes of various aspects of the 50s and 60s climbing scene (A Short Walk With Whillans is the other great bit of writing about DW), as well as the satirical songs and poems.
I'd also consider recommending the Ground Up Slate guidebook as reading even for someone who has no intention of going climbing there.
Lots more reading material in this thread, though.
> It came across as very honest.
Sort of - although there's a bit of sleight of hand where he sort of implies that he'd lost a lot of friends through being a dick to people while basically avoiding the issue of how much of a dick he was. Which is understandable in an autobiography, of course, but I think it stops short of being the full confessional.
He describes the physical side of climbing better than anyone I've ever read though. And it's generally very good. Deals very interestingly with someone whose sense of self-worth is massively entwined with their achievements in a certain activity, what happens when their achievement starts to drop off, and the search for a sense of purpose afterwards - something which I guess you could apply a lot more broadly.
Other stuff:
Jim Perrin - The Villain, as previously mentioned, and also
Jim Perrin - Shipton and Tilman, which is a brilliant book about the joy of mountain exploration as opposed to summit bagging and self-sufficient lightweight expeditions as opposed to siege tactics.
Tom Patey - One Man's Mountains for the great vignettes of various aspects of the 50s and 60s climbing scene (A Short Walk With Whillans is the other great bit of writing about DW), as well as the satirical songs and poems.
I'd also consider recommending the Ground Up Slate guidebook as reading even for someone who has no intention of going climbing there.
Lots more reading material in this thread, though.
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Maybe he doesn't see himself like that?
> although there's a bit of sleight of hand where he sort of implies that he'd lost a lot of friends through being a dick to people while basically avoiding the issue of how much of a dick he was
Maybe he doesn't see himself like that?
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Maybe. But (and it's been a while since I read it) I got the feeling that there was a period when he did stuff that he isn't that proud of that's too important to how-I-got-my-shit-back-together aspect of the story to completely ignore but that he (understandably) doesn't really want to talk about or try to justify. This isn't really a criticism - if for some bizarre reason I ever wrote an autobiography you can bet your ass there's stuff I'd skate over or leave out - it's just that I'd stop short of saying "very honest".
This is just based on my reading of the book, by the way - I'm not implying that I'm party to a load of scurrilous gossip that's lead me to a preconceived opinion about him or that I'm annoyed that he's omitting things that I know about or anything like that.
Maybe. But (and it's been a while since I read it) I got the feeling that there was a period when he did stuff that he isn't that proud of that's too important to how-I-got-my-shit-back-together aspect of the story to completely ignore but that he (understandably) doesn't really want to talk about or try to justify. This isn't really a criticism - if for some bizarre reason I ever wrote an autobiography you can bet your ass there's stuff I'd skate over or leave out - it's just that I'd stop short of saying "very honest".
This is just based on my reading of the book, by the way - I'm not implying that I'm party to a load of scurrilous gossip that's lead me to a preconceived opinion about him or that I'm annoyed that he's omitting things that I know about or anything like that.
Post edited at 13:57
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Off the top of my head (with a bias towards those which have stood the test of time):
Scrambles in the Alps (Whymper)
My Climbs in the Alps and the Caucasus (Mummery)
The White Spider (Harrer)
Annapurna (Herzog)
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (Buhl)
The Great Days (Bonatti)
Naked Before the Mountain (Mazeaud)
Conquistadors of the Useless (Terray)
Summits and Secrets (Diemberger)
The Shishapangma Expedition (Scott, Baxter-Jones)
Touching the Void (Simpson)
Off the top of my head (with a bias towards those which have stood the test of time):
Scrambles in the Alps (Whymper)
My Climbs in the Alps and the Caucasus (Mummery)
The White Spider (Harrer)
Annapurna (Herzog)
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (Buhl)
The Great Days (Bonatti)
Naked Before the Mountain (Mazeaud)
Conquistadors of the Useless (Terray)
Summits and Secrets (Diemberger)
The Shishapangma Expedition (Scott, Baxter-Jones)
Touching the Void (Simpson)
Post edited at 14:52
In reply to Robert Durran:
thought conquistadors of the useless a bit turgid and pompous. maybe its in the translation, but you couldnt accuse him of having low self esteem.
touching the void yeah of course its in there, and the movie - watched it with white knuckles despite knowing the outcome. North Face is also utterly gripping, despite inventing love interests for extra drama
thought conquistadors of the useless a bit turgid and pompous. maybe its in the translation, but you couldnt accuse him of having low self esteem.
touching the void yeah of course its in there, and the movie - watched it with white knuckles despite knowing the outcome. North Face is also utterly gripping, despite inventing love interests for extra drama
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Depends on your field of interest I'm sure, but the UK rock climbing list might go...
Yes to Dance, Jim Perrin
Holding On, Martin. Boysen
Journey After Dawn, Bill Peascod
Rock Athlete, Ron Fawcett
Hands of a Climber, Steve Dean
On and off the Rock, Jim Perrin
Classic Rock
Hard Rock
Menlove, Jim Perrin
Over the Moors, Mark Kocsis
Depends on your field of interest I'm sure, but the UK rock climbing list might go...
Yes to Dance, Jim Perrin
Holding On, Martin. Boysen
Journey After Dawn, Bill Peascod
Rock Athlete, Ron Fawcett
Hands of a Climber, Steve Dean
On and off the Rock, Jim Perrin
Classic Rock
Hard Rock
Menlove, Jim Perrin
Over the Moors, Mark Kocsis
In reply to JohnnyW:
Bugger, I forgot WH Murray, Mountaineering in Scotland and Undiscovered Scotland.......love his style, and the fact I can climb most of what was cutting edge back them. Makes me feel closer to them somehow.....
Bugger, I forgot WH Murray, Mountaineering in Scotland and Undiscovered Scotland.......love his style, and the fact I can climb most of what was cutting edge back them. Makes me feel closer to them somehow.....
1
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Some excellent titles there, must re-read those I have, and look out for the few I haven't.
I'd have to throw Bill Murray's "Mountaineering in Scotland/Undiscovered Scotland" into the mix.
Some excellent titles there, must re-read those I have, and look out for the few I haven't.
I'd have to throw Bill Murray's "Mountaineering in Scotland/Undiscovered Scotland" into the mix.
1
In reply to JohnnyW:
Oops, so did I.
> Bugger, I forgot WH Murray, Mountaineering in Scotland and Undiscovered Scotland.......
Oops, so did I.
In reply to All:
Loads of great choices there... Lots i haven't heard of before, and lots which have just escaped me so far. Are most modern books on climbing biographies? Or have we just gone through a phase when a lot of the recent greats have reached an age when they needed documenting?
Loads of great choices there... Lots i haven't heard of before, and lots which have just escaped me so far. Are most modern books on climbing biographies? Or have we just gone through a phase when a lot of the recent greats have reached an age when they needed documenting?
1
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Rock climbers in action in Snowdonia
Jones's books on Welsh and Cumbrian rock were sterling efforts, too
On rock and ice by Andre Rich is a pretty stunning collection of action shots for a book published just after the second world war
The totem pole left quite an impression on me
Plus, of course, quite a few others already mentioned. But one of the best outdoor books I've ever read is actually about fell running - feet in the clouds, by Richard Askwith. Gripping and superbly written: it makes you despair at how dreadfully dull most climbing books actually are.
Martin
Rock climbers in action in Snowdonia
Jones's books on Welsh and Cumbrian rock were sterling efforts, too
On rock and ice by Andre Rich is a pretty stunning collection of action shots for a book published just after the second world war
The totem pole left quite an impression on me
Plus, of course, quite a few others already mentioned. But one of the best outdoor books I've ever read is actually about fell running - feet in the clouds, by Richard Askwith. Gripping and superbly written: it makes you despair at how dreadfully dull most climbing books actually are.
Martin
In reply to Dom Whillans:
I have not long finished " High Infatuation " by Steph Davis and enjoyed it very much.
My favorite hill walking book has to be Steve Ashton " Ridges Of Snowdonia " I love his musings on the joys of hill walking.
I have not long finished " High Infatuation " by Steph Davis and enjoyed it very much.
My favorite hill walking book has to be Steve Ashton " Ridges Of Snowdonia " I love his musings on the joys of hill walking.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Snap!
Plus The Eiger Obsession, John Harlin III,
Rum Doodle
Always a little further, Borthwick
W H Murray
Snap!
Plus The Eiger Obsession, John Harlin III,
Rum Doodle
Always a little further, Borthwick
W H Murray
In reply to pebbles:
Thanks for those two, they are now on my Christmas list!
>
>
> And Anderl Heckmair "My Life" for a balancing view on the eiger and also a really enjoyable read in its own right - Heckmair comes across as much more modest and likeable than Harrer
>
> And Anderl Heckmair "My Life" for a balancing view on the eiger and also a really enjoyable read in its own right - Heckmair comes across as much more modest and likeable than Harrer
>
> slightly off topic - anyone who climbs in Rjukan really ought to read "skis against the atom" by Knut Haukelid who led the Norwegian sabotage team at Rjukan. You'll never look at the gorge or power plant the same way again.
> slightly off topic - anyone who climbs in Rjukan really ought to read "skis against the atom" by Knut Haukelid who led the Norwegian sabotage team at Rjukan. You'll never look at the gorge or power plant the same way again.
Thanks for those two, they are now on my Christmas list!
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Off the top of my head...
Total Alpinism: Rene Desmaison (haven't read the original French "342 heures dans les Grandes Jorasses."
Touching the Void: Joe Simpson
Native Stones: David Craig
The Mountain of my Fear: David Roberts
Fiva: Gordon Stainforth
Last Days: John Roskelly
The Villian: Jim Perrin
Feet in the Clouds: Richard Askwith (I'm assuming fell running is allowed)
Anderl Heckmair: My Life
Climbing Ice: Yvon Chouinard
Notables I haven't read are Bonatti's Mountains of my life, Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless, Scott and Baxter-Jone's The Shishapangma expedition and Herzog's Annapurna.
Étoiles et tempêtes by Rebuffat and Savage Arena should get a mention but the original French was slow going and it's getting on 30 years since I read Savage Arena.
The Hard Years imho is probably essential reading if your stamping ground is the Peak but I thought it was a very dull read about an anything but dull life.
Off the top of my head...
Total Alpinism: Rene Desmaison (haven't read the original French "342 heures dans les Grandes Jorasses."
Touching the Void: Joe Simpson
Native Stones: David Craig
The Mountain of my Fear: David Roberts
Fiva: Gordon Stainforth
Last Days: John Roskelly
The Villian: Jim Perrin
Feet in the Clouds: Richard Askwith (I'm assuming fell running is allowed)
Anderl Heckmair: My Life
Climbing Ice: Yvon Chouinard
Notables I haven't read are Bonatti's Mountains of my life, Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless, Scott and Baxter-Jone's The Shishapangma expedition and Herzog's Annapurna.
Étoiles et tempêtes by Rebuffat and Savage Arena should get a mention but the original French was slow going and it's getting on 30 years since I read Savage Arena.
The Hard Years imho is probably essential reading if your stamping ground is the Peak but I thought it was a very dull read about an anything but dull life.
Post edited at 21:00
In reply to Removed User:
Yeah - I believe it's ghost written, and not particularly well in that very little personality comes out in it. The Villain probably gives a more convincing portrait of Brown (although for all I know it could be total rubbish...)
Has anyone read Gervasutti's Climbs? Is that worth trying to track down?
> The Hard Years imho is probably essential reading if your stamping ground is the Peak but I thought it was a very dull read about an anything but dull life.
Yeah - I believe it's ghost written, and not particularly well in that very little personality comes out in it. The Villain probably gives a more convincing portrait of Brown (although for all I know it could be total rubbish...)
Has anyone read Gervasutti's Climbs? Is that worth trying to track down?
In reply to Ramblin dave:
There've been a couple of copies of Gervasutti's Climbs on eBay recently; it's a relatively common returner. One outfit was doing an ex-library copy for a couple of quid - might still be there.
Martin
There've been a couple of copies of Gervasutti's Climbs on eBay recently; it's a relatively common returner. One outfit was doing an ex-library copy for a couple of quid - might still be there.
Martin
In reply to Removed User:
Those two should definitely have been on my list.
Possibly thr best "conventional" Himalayan epedition book.
Indeed.
> Total Alpinism: Rene Desmaison
> The Mountain of my Fear: David Roberts
> The Mountain of my Fear: David Roberts
Those two should definitely have been on my list.
> Notables I haven't read are......Scott and Baxter-Jone's The Shishapangma expedition.....
Possibly thr best "conventional" Himalayan epedition book.
> .........Savage Arena should get a mention.
Indeed.
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Yes, I have a copy. Not great literature but remarkable for the historical significance of the climbs. The same could be said of Cassin's 50 Years of alpinism but with an even more jaw dropping CV.
> Has anyone read Gervasutti's Climbs?
Yes, I have a copy. Not great literature but remarkable for the historical significance of the climbs. The same could be said of Cassin's 50 Years of alpinism but with an even more jaw dropping CV.
1
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Perhaps it would be putting too much of a Scottish bias on the list since WHMurray is a must, but Patey's One Man's Mountains is worthy of consideration
Perhaps it would be putting too much of a Scottish bias on the list since WHMurray is a must, but Patey's One Man's Mountains is worthy of consideration
In reply to Dom Whillans:
If I had to pick one:
Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete
White Spider was far more entertaining, however if I were to only have read one it would be the above.
If I had to pick one:
Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete
White Spider was far more entertaining, however if I were to only have read one it would be the above.
In reply to John Ww:
just want to add my thanks to the op and everyone whose psted on this thread, lots of brilliant recommendation s here for books iv heard of and books I havnt. should keep me busy for a while!
just want to add my thanks to the op and everyone whose psted on this thread, lots of brilliant recommendation s here for books iv heard of and books I havnt. should keep me busy for a while!
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Learning to Breath and Touching the Void would be on my list
didn't really like The Villain...thought it over-analysed the subject
And I'm not getting on with Peak Rock...I was really pleased to get it but have only dipped in and quickly put it aside...maybe again I find it overdoes the subject matter.
Learning to Breath and Touching the Void would be on my list
didn't really like The Villain...thought it over-analysed the subject
And I'm not getting on with Peak Rock...I was really pleased to get it but have only dipped in and quickly put it aside...maybe again I find it overdoes the subject matter.
1
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Another vote for "Learning to breathe". It gives a great insight into how people come to climbing.
sjm
Another vote for "Learning to breathe". It gives a great insight into how people come to climbing.
sjm
In reply to Dom Whillans:
not much to add, but 2 books I like are Shipton's Mountain Travel-bone dry humour and a refreshing honesty about feeling rough first thing in the morning! The other is Mountain days and Bothy nights.
not much to add, but 2 books I like are Shipton's Mountain Travel-bone dry humour and a refreshing honesty about feeling rough first thing in the morning! The other is Mountain days and Bothy nights.
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Just because nobody else has mentioned it 'Everest, The Mountaineering History' by Walt Unsworth deserves a mention here.
Just because nobody else has mentioned it 'Everest, The Mountaineering History' by Walt Unsworth deserves a mention here.
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Feeding the Rat - Al Avarez
Brilliant. Especially for all those of us who have a "rat"
Feeding the Rat - Al Avarez
Brilliant. Especially for all those of us who have a "rat"
1
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Would go along with plenty of the classics "Annapurna", "Touching the Void", ""Psychovertical" are all essential. "Touching my Father's Soul" by Jamling Tenzing Norgay is a good read and gives a great insight into the Sherpa perspective.
A curveball choice would be "With Bare Hands" by Alain Robert - the chapter when he is climbing the Sears Tower in Chicago and it begins to rain is one of the most gripping sweaty palms moments I've come across in literature.
Would go along with plenty of the classics "Annapurna", "Touching the Void", ""Psychovertical" are all essential. "Touching my Father's Soul" by Jamling Tenzing Norgay is a good read and gives a great insight into the Sherpa perspective.
A curveball choice would be "With Bare Hands" by Alain Robert - the chapter when he is climbing the Sears Tower in Chicago and it begins to rain is one of the most gripping sweaty palms moments I've come across in literature.
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Freedom Climbers by Bernadette MacDonald is an amazing read, all about the polish himalayan climbing scene of the 1980's- definitely essential reading if you're interested in the history of high altitude climbing/ people pushing the absolute limits of what was possible at the time (probably still pretty much the limits), as well as the culture that brought such extreme and risky mountaineering about. But then, I thought her biography of Tomaz Humar was pretty poor, and wouldn't bother with that.
Freedom Climbers by Bernadette MacDonald is an amazing read, all about the polish himalayan climbing scene of the 1980's- definitely essential reading if you're interested in the history of high altitude climbing/ people pushing the absolute limits of what was possible at the time (probably still pretty much the limits), as well as the culture that brought such extreme and risky mountaineering about. But then, I thought her biography of Tomaz Humar was pretty poor, and wouldn't bother with that.
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Deep Play by Paul Pritchard has to be in there surely. Can't believe no-one has mentioned it yet (unless I missed it)
Kiss Or Kill by Mark Twight is maybe a bit too "marmite" to get on the list but you could make a case for it.
I Chose To Climb by Chris Bonnington is very good too IMHO
Deep Play by Paul Pritchard has to be in there surely. Can't believe no-one has mentioned it yet (unless I missed it)
Kiss Or Kill by Mark Twight is maybe a bit too "marmite" to get on the list but you could make a case for it.
I Chose To Climb by Chris Bonnington is very good too IMHO
Post edited at 16:45
In reply to Dom Whillans:
Echoes of a Dream by Richard McHardy is also a great book that seems to have gone under the "not famous enough" radar...
Echoes of a Dream by Richard McHardy is also a great book that seems to have gone under the "not famous enough" radar...
In reply to Dom Whillans:
the mention of whymper's 'scrambles in the Alps' reminded me of one I forgot...
geoffrey winthrop young's 'on high hills' is fantastic, includes some climbs with a young mallory.
the mention of whymper's 'scrambles in the Alps' reminded me of one I forgot...
geoffrey winthrop young's 'on high hills' is fantastic, includes some climbs with a young mallory.
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