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best way to condition shoulders for pushining down on holds

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Hi.

The great Johnny Dawes told me to push down on (large) holds to get your my feet higher - which has worked....

This sometimes gives me a bit of shoulder pain.

What is the best way to condition shoulders for pushing down?

Any tips and advice greatly welcomed.

Sav
Post edited at 16:09
 rgold 08 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Because of the shoulder pain, you need to start at a level that isn't going to make things worse, which means simple body-weight exercises may be out. The trick is to train at levels below those causing pain, even if it seems the resistance is absurdly light for a while. This seems to be one of the keys to rehabbing injuries.

There are two types of pressing motions: in the first, your elbows are down and your hands are relatively low---the dividing line between pulling and pressing is when your hands are at about armpit level. In the second, you elbows (or often just one elbow) are up, your palm is on the hold, and you are in a manteling position.

The best way to gradually train the first type of pressing is with a lat pull-down machine. Begin with the bar at chin level and press it all the way down to mid-thigh.

Gradually training manteling is harder. Dips are the obvious choice and what you want to head for, but they may be too hard on your shoulders at first if you are already experiencing pain. Knee pushups might be a start, but the biomechanics are not specific enough. Assisted dips are the way to go if you can set it up---standing on a loop of surgical latex tubing to take off body weight works very well but you have to get the tubing and put up with the comments you'll get in the gym. (Don't actually stand on the tubing; use a foot loop.) You start with a really tight loop and make it longer as you get stronger. Latex surgical tubing can be purchased from diving supply stores; get the thickest wall you can find, and make sure it is latex, nothing else stretches like it without breaking. If you have a home gym, you can set up a pulley counterweight to effectively reduce your body weight, as is now common for hangboard workouts.
In reply to rgold:

Hello.

Thank you for your advice. It is greatly appreciated.

I have two gyms near me that have lat pull-down machines and I know how to use them.

Do you think I should take a week or so off from indoor bouldering to recover?

As I live in a city where I do not think there is a diving shop I searched for the surgical latex tubing on e-bay and Amazon.

I also looked into Knee Pushups.

Regards

Sav
 rgold 09 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

This is a US company (because that's where I live, sorry). It isn't a diving supply place; maybe I lied about that---it used to be true. The link is to a chart specifically aimed at using the tubing for exercising. http://www.latex-tubing.com/Exercise.html

The tubing is also very good for training one-arm pullups, although a counterweight might be better if you can set one up.

For dips only a five-foot piece would probably work. You'd start out with it stretched straight across with no slack. That said, I'd go for a ten-foot piece. As I mentioned, you don't want to stand directly on the tubing. It will roll off your feet and hit you hard, probably in the back. You'll get welts from it. So put a small piece of one-inch or wider webbing on the tubing, just big enough to get both feet in (although for dips you can just as well use one foot). The webbing will eventually abrade the tubing; you can cut down on this by using a small rescue pulley on the tubing.

You can just drape the tubing over the handles of the dip station or parallel bars and put your hands on top of it; they will keep it in place once your weight is applied. Since the tubing will be across the handles with little or no slack to begin with, you'll really need to stand on a bench to get your foot or feet in the foot loop. There is perhaps a very minor skill involved in maintaining foot position; basically you don't want your foot to get in front of you so that the tubing pulls you up in the direction of an L-seat. It's the same way you keep your foot back in aid slings.

In reply to rgold:

Hi.

I read on your profile that you are based in the states.

There is a lot of good climbing there.

I have seen people using latex surgical tubing for one arm pull ups and using a counterweight at one of the climbing walls I climb at.

I do not know where to get the webbing from either.

Which colour tubing do you think I should get?

I have never aid climbed so I would have no idea about it.

Sav


In reply to John Simpson:

Hi John.

I have read the article and found it very useful.

A lot of information to take in.

I also checked out the blog.

Robin is a coach Judy like Johnny Dawes, Gaz Parry and Neil Gresham who all coached me.

Sav

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