UKC

Knee injury advice

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 sheelba 09 Nov 2014
For 2 years now I have had an issue with a niggling pain in my left knee just to the left above the knee cap. I went to the doctors and they took an x-ray and said there was just a bit of wear and tear. They gave me some old person exercises and told me to take lots of painkillers which didn't seem like great advice, so I thought I'd ask if anyone has had a similar problem and has some advice.

It is worse when running, carrying a full pack of climbing gear, back-packing and particularly walking into winter climbs (where it can get to the point when I consider turning back). Otherwise it is generally fine and doesn't effect me when actually climbing at all (even in winter). When backpacking I use sticks and a knee support but when walking into crags I often just wear approach shoes which I think may be exacerbating it. My primary worry is that it will never get better and I want to avoid it getting worse. Any advice?
 Skol 09 Nov 2014
In reply to sheelba:

> For 2 years now I have had an issue with a niggling pain in my left knee just to the left above the knee cap. I went to the doctors and they took an x-ray and said there was just a bit of wear and tear and gave old person exercises....
Did you do the exs and do you still do them?
 SouthernSteve 09 Nov 2014
In reply to sheelba:

I would go and see a sport orientated physiotherapist or go back to your doctor. I would choose the former myself every time unless I was sure I wanted to see a surgeon. What kind of exercises were you given? Were they stretching, strengthening or a combination and what was considered to be the cause of the wear and tear.
 BazVee 09 Nov 2014
In reply to sheelba:

Having looked at your profile I see you are only 26 so I assume that the wear and tear is reasonable for your age. I don't know much about knees, I have a right hip just been described by all the practitioners I have recently seen as worn out and in replacement territory, I've always suffered from a bad knee but have found that strengthening exercises at the gym use to help that as well as a sensible stretching routine. However as I said I don't know enough about knees to say what's right for me was right for you, but I would take some specialist advice from a sports type practitioner, it might costs but likely to be worth it in the long run.
 Skol 09 Nov 2014
In reply to sheelba:
Quite possibly it's chondromalacia patella.
Rest and strengthening usually sort this, worst case is a clean out with arthroscopy.
See a physio, follow the advice, and avoid surgery at all costs. It's not a short cut.
 emilyclimbs 09 Nov 2014
In reply to sheelba:

I had exactly the same thing - MRI revealed 'wear and tear' ie early stages fissures/arthritis. I carried on climbing and literally a few weeks later took a very short fall whilst bouldering and dislocated that knee, tearing EVERY ligament inside. Had to have my hamstring harvested for replacement ACL. On being 'opened up' they found the knee riddled with grade 3 arthritis - something the MRI didn't pick up. I'm almost 6 months post surgery now and though my rope climbing is better than ever, I have real demons going back to bouldering (though I did achieve a V3 last week - v tentatively!) Don't make my mistakes - strengthen your knee as best you can with one legged squats, hamstring curls and other 'muscle surrounding the knee' exercises. Also make sure you do it with good form! Most of all be CAREFUL. No jumping off the top of a bouldering route - climbing down will only improve your strength and ability as a climber. Good luck and take care - knee injury ruined my life for a long, long time and I'll never have the same strength in my injured knee.

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