UKC

I'm hoping to benefit from other people's experience here. Night of the Hot Pies (Cathedral Quarry) is on my wish list for next season & I wondered if there is anything in particular I should know about it. E.g. What's the gear like above the bolts? Is the crux between the two bolts or above them? Technically is it an average 5b, or hard, or soft touch? Any information / advice would be most welcome.

In reply to Ratfeeder:

I've not actually done it, I've abbed down to check another route and the gear looks good after the bolts, the crack does have the odd tuft of grass mind but I doubt this would affect the climbing or the protection...much.

Its also at the top of the graded list for slate e1's in dow duddon & slate.

Give it a go, it does look good I'll have to do it when I get chance I love our slate quarries!!

Darklands is a good route & not e3 anymore and only about 5b you should get on that while your there

In reply to Ratfeeder:

The crux is between the bolts. I thought it was very technical, but not strenuous, and right next to the second bolt. After that the gear is good - large wires or smallish cams.

In reply to Ratfeeder:

From my notes i found it quite tricky, the moves near the bolts being the hardest but at least these are protected by the bolts. The upper groove is well protected with slightly awkward rest positions.

We did Darklands next and although harder it felt about the same. There are about 5 bolts on this now but you still need some gear for the upper section.

In reply to scott quinn:

Thanks. It does sound stiff for the grade, but I'll give it a go for sure. Glad to hear the gear looks good in the crack! Darklands looks amazing...

In reply to petegunn:

Thanks, that's helpful. It seems everyone agrees this is a tricky one for the grade. I would never have considered Darklands but it does sound tempting!

In reply to Paul Robertson:

Thanks, most helpful. That gives me a clear idea of what to expect.