UKC

... that aren't free routes. Does such a thing exist?

In reply to Fredt:
Yes. Benny, at Swanage comes to mind immediately. A1 and HS.

There is a short aid route in the cave to the left of 'The Bat' in Dovedale, called 'The Ball' which wasn't too hard. Not sure what grade it was, but it was one of the first aid routes I did. The Bat was A3 on the manky old pegs that were there in the early 90s. Possibly has some bolts on it now, so may be a bit safer.

I expect these are in the route database.

IPP

In reply to Fredt:

You can search for aid routes in the logbook on here.

In reply to Fredt:

the big overhang at north stack wall, gogarth.

Not sure I would say it's easy though.

Did it two or three years ago and half the fixed gear ripped. No problem for us as we had a ton of pins, but the ones we placed we cleaned, so I would say you need to take a decent selection of pins.

In reply to IPPurewater:

No bolts on The Bat, or Ball for that matter, last time I looked about 3 years ago. It's all done on manky unsafe looking tatty stuff, great fun, nearly died laughing watching my mates having a go (I was just technical support having done it about 30 years previously)

In reply to robapplegate:


The Bat and The Ball are pretty much all on bolts,


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

...and have been for a good bit over 3 years. Glad to know I got an A3 tick according to a post above...was scary before the bolts. I'd say A1 now for all but those with a massive span as the spacing is pretty wide and awkward so not a good route to start on.

In reply to Offwidth:
They were fun routes on all that grotty gear.

Kyrie Eleison has been retro-bolted too, I believe.
That was wild on the sopping wet wooden wedges!

Lord have mercy, indeed!

In reply to Fredt:

Rainy Day Buttress at Huntsham. Eight foot horizontal roof; four or five points of aid. Don't think its in the market for a free ascent...

In reply to Fredt:

I stand corrected. conflating my memory when I did it (long time ago) with watching my mate, maybe the tears of laughter in my eyes made my vision a little blurry. it was like watching someone knit coloured spaghetti

In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet: KE was fun with the incredibly thin worn bolt hangers across the roof, my mate (2 stone lighter than me) having to tie off the hangers with slings rather than clipping directly. Me following wondering if the 2 stone extra was going to be the bit that made a whole row of bolts unzip.

Went back a few months after we'd done it, a whole row of shiny new bolts. Somebody else must have had the "fun" unzipping them

In reply to Fredt:

Turn of the screw in avon. Easy aid clipping up bolts, however I think totally blank for free climbing?

In reply to IPPurewater:
Do you know you can link to routes using the search boxes in the reply window?

Benny's Apprentice (A1)
The Bat (A1), The Ball (A2) at Dovedale

In reply to Fredt:

Rhonda (A2), Wilton 1. Did it a couple of months ago.

In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

Thanks Paul. I didn't know that.

In reply to Mark Collins:
Did you know too Mark?

Just type Rhonda in the [Insert climb link] box and click on the right climb in the dropdown - Rhonda (A2)

Edit: If the system gains in popularity we will add links back to the Forums from the climb pages to threads referencing it.

In reply to Fredt:

The bat/ball at dovedale are c1, in there current (2014) state there is no way they should get a2. Good fun and a good rainy day way to practice bolt ladders and lowering out for the second

In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:




That's good, thanks Paul.

In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:



Retro-bolted? We did what may have been the 2nd ascent back in the day and it was pretty much a bolt ladder the whole way,

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I haven't been up there for years, but I recall a number of old wooden wedge moves between some of the bolts.

I think that there is a continuous line now.

In reply to robapplegate:

You were (wisely), technical support to me 30yrs ago when I led it. I remember pegs held in by chocks of wood etc which caused some concern. The second time I led it a fat second pulled 2 of the pegs which resulted in a huge amount of gear being left on the route for several days.