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Stiffest shoes available

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Jason123 11 Nov 2014
I suffer from osteoarthritis in my big toes, pretty much rules out climbing, Id love to climb again, what would folk recommend as a stiff boot? I have been pointed toward this site http://www.algeos.com/ for boot inserts etc
 1poundSOCKS 11 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Stiffest boots I've got are La Sportiva TC Pros (expensive and hard to get in this country, Needlesports do them I think) and Evolv Royales (cheap, available all over).
 Theo Moore 11 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Katana lace are apparently pretty stiff.
 Morgan Woods 11 Nov 2014
In reply to theomoore:

5.10 anasazi laces are generally considered quite stiff....used to be pink, now white i think.
 KellyKettle 11 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Boreal Ballet Gold

I've been after a pair for a while now to little avail

The new generation of lightweight fully stiffened boots (i.e. Scarpa Rebel Pro) might also be an option, if you can't find shoes which are suitably Stiff and Non Foot-crushing.
 Kemics 11 Nov 2014
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Yeah blancos are definitely the stiffest shoes I've used.
 krikoman 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Clogs!!
 kylo-342 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

I've been in a similar situation to you. Was almost unable to climb due to pain in feet from rock shoes, so decided to try something different, accepting that my grade may drop but at least I would get some climbing in

Eventually I bought pair of Evolv Astroman, that are super-stiff and have been very comfortable - furthermore, my climbing grade went up!

I strongly recommend them - although agree with the vendor that it's worth trying on a pair - as the sizing wasn't exactly as I expected. Have climbed with them for 6 months or so now and have no complaints. Not quite as sensitive as usual rock slippers but no pain in toes.

http://www.rockrun.com/evolv-astroman
 CharlieMack 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

If you happen to be size 8 then ive got some old 5.10 anasazi greens (not the verde). They have a fibre glass insert. Uber stiff. Can't bend them by hand with no foot in them.
 Dave Mayes 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Had some problems with my big toe too, tried on loads of shoes. In the end I went for Red Chilli Sausalitos. Not the stickiest rubber, and a bit of a step down from what I'd normally wear, but dead cheap, super stiff and don't seem to aggravate my big toe at all. Way way stiffer than any anasazis.
Hope you find some that help
cb294 12 Nov 2014
In reply to all:

Helpful topic and replies!

CB

 DannyC 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Hi Jason,

Depends how bad it is, but I'd be tempted to put a Wanted post on the forums for some old EB climbing boots (blue and white, ankle length), like this:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=eb+climbing+boots+old&biw=1210&bi...

Hardly the best boot ever, but they're extremely rigid, and would give loads of protection to the toes, as well as being more comfortable for descents etc if your toes are really painful.

Good luck,
D.
 SGD 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Try a 5.10 rogue lace up - I couldn't believe how wooden they felt and I use the 5.10 whites on slate!
 Gary Coggon 12 Nov 2014
In reply to Jason123:

Mine's almost exactly the same story as yours. Very happy with Scarpa Techno X as my edging/E1-2 limestone boot - very supportive. Hopeless on grit/smearing, tho, so I pop on my old Anasazi pinks in short (painful) bursts. Hope you find something to get you back into it.
 Timmd 12 Nov 2014
In reply to KellyKettle:

> Boreal Ballet Gold

> I've been after a pair for a while now to little avail

> The new generation of lightweight fully stiffened boots (i.e. Scarpa Rebel Pro) might also be an option, if you can't find shoes which are suitably Stiff and Non Foot-crushing.

http://www.bergfreunde.co.uk/boreal-ballet-climbing-shoes/?pid=10004&_$...

You can get Ballets from here or from Mountain Tools in the US. I don't know of anywhere else, though.
 dan gibson 13 Nov 2014
In reply to Timmd:

Rock On at Craggy Island in Guildford has every size of Boreal Ballet Gold.
I work there occasionally.

Dan
 Timmd 14 Nov 2014
In reply to dan gibson:

Useful info!

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