UKC

I have been leading VDiff mainly in Snowdonia and I have just started moving onto Severes. My gear placements on my rack consist of:

Wild country wires size 1-8
DMM off set 7,8,9,10,11
Wild country Hexes 5,6,7,8

I am looking to purchase some Cams but unsure on what sizes to get. I have a budget of £100 and have been looking at the DMM 4cu.

Advice/suggestions appreciated.

In reply to skizxi:

I think the best balance of quality and price is the DMM Dragon set of 3 for £120 (I know it's £20 over budget) from V12 online and in store. Start with the Green, Red and Gold http://www.v12outdoor.com/product.php/4106/dmm-dragon-cams-set-2-3-4 covering a very useful 24-64cm with a large overlap between them

The 4CUs are cheaper and still excellent pieces of pro so for a budget option get the pack of three for £90 http://www.v12outdoor.com/product.php/4113/dmm-4cu-set-0-5-1-5-2-5
but be warned that although they will cover as wide a range (a narrower 17-55cm) there are significant gaps between each of the 3 cams because individually they don't have the range. That's why they are cheaper. They also just don't feel as good (to me).

You won't go wrong with either set, so see which feels best to you

In reply to BnB:

I'd buy DMM and support British business.

I use Dragons, they're awesome, simple as that.

I used to use 4cu's, they're great if you're on a budget, not quite as nice to use as Dragons but you'll be saving £££.

In reply to skizxi:
Another vote for dragons here-they are fab and the extendable sling (also found on 4cu) is very useful, particularly on wandering routes you tend to find in snowdonia. You'll need to budget for a set of carabiners to rack them on too-the colour coded DMM ones work a treat (phantoms or spectres).
Finally, the dmm cams are designed, tested and made in snowdonia. If anything is going to suit your local routes it'll be these!

In reply to Otis:
Yep, another vote for Dragons.

Look around for deals and check whether you can get a BMC (or other clubs locally) discount if you're a member.

Joe Browns usually have an "any 3 for £120" deal so you're not limited to the manufacturers "sets" amd can choose your own sizes. (but no further discount from this).

The purple size seems quite a useful one, especially in the moelwyns, but I have 7 sizes (all except the largest) and they've all had quite a bit of use this year on Snowdonia Diff-VS

In reply to skizxi:

Can get a medium set of C4's from EMS for £128.

http://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/product/1020_black-diamond-camalot-c...

In reply to skizxi:

Thanks for all your input

In reply to Removed User:

C4s are good. I'd second them. I recommend going into a shop and seeing which ones feel best to use, or better still, try your mates' cams if possible. I like the thumb loops on the C4s, and find the extending slings a pain the backside when desperately trying to jam a cam into a placement when I'm pumped and in danger of needing my brown trousers. Unless you've got loads of cash to spare, I'd wait to save up a bit more if necessary, and go for the model that you like best, instead of just going for the cheapest.

In reply to whenry:

Why are the extending slings a pain? You don't HAVE to extend if you don't need to.

In reply to skizxi:

I'm gonna buck the trend a little here.

I had a full/double set of dragons but sold them and bought the camalots instead.

I prefer the dragons to friends due to the double axle but when comparing the ergonomics of the camalots to the dragons I got on better with the thumb loop and short sling (2/3rds of my draws are along draws anyway.)

They rack a bit neater and clean a bit easier (no need to sort the sling out).

There is nothing wrong with dragons but when you invest in a 'system' make sure it suits you'll be happy with it.

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

One problem with the extending slings is that they make it a faff if you carry more than one cam on a krab. Apart from the very large cams I always rack 2 cams to a krab. I renewed all my cams last year, they were a bit of a "mish mash", for BD ones. If I was in the market now I would look seriously at the Totems as well.

In reply to skizxi:

I have Tech Friends, Heliums and Camalots. While I've not used the Heliums so much (mine are new, but I have used partners'), I always find myself reaching for the BDs. They sit better, the cam action (both trigger and release) is super smooth, and I like the thumb loop. I don't find myself wanting for an extendable sling because, as already said, most of my slings are long.

However, double axles aren't always cheap (though £120 is a steal in my opinion!), especially as in most cases you'll have to pony up for krabs as well. A friend started out recently with DMM 4cus and they are absolutely fine, especially if price is a primary concern. I have never used Dragons (ah, maybe once actually...), but I highly rate DMM kit in general, so I guess my suggestion would be to start with a 3pack of 4cus, see how you get on, and maybe supplement them with a complimentary 3pack of Dragons/Camalots somewhere down the line. I would echo going to a shop and having a play; you'll easily detect which style you like the 'feel' of.

In reply to Removed User:

Thats a useful set!

In reply to skizxi:

Spend a little more and buy the really good ones as a start. It will save you money in the long run. Camalots or dragons are neither here nor there really. If you climb easy routes in snowdonia my inclination would be towards dragons due to the extendable slings. Because of the extendable slings I'm now carrying less quickdraws which slims down the rack.

In reply to skizxi:
Before you spend lots of money on nice cams, have you climbed North Buttress Route on Tryfan? If not do so with you hex's and take note of the wonderful Camalot placement some one has left behind about 6" from the bomber cow bell hex placement. Now if you are happy you won't emulate this, the 3 pack of dragon's could be for you, otherwise a 2 and 3 4CU could well be a good place to start, leaving you enough funds to start down the flashier Dragon/ Helium Friend/ Camalot... route, or go for more of the same or similar with 4CUs or Demons.

In reply to D Berry:

Ended up going for DMM Dragons 2,3 and 4.
£110 from Sports Direct! Happy days.

In reply to skizxi:

Great choice at a great price. Now enjoy.

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

No, you don't have to extend - but you have four slings coming off the cam instead of one - it's just something extra to get in the way.

In reply to whenry:
Four slings??

You have one sling, either doubled or extended. It's really not a problem.

(apart from the issue of slinging multiple cams on one racking crab)

In reply to skizxi:

I went for a set of these too.
Just opened them this morning, well pleased.
Definitely a step up from my rigid friends

Richard

In reply to skizxi:

You can often pick up second hand cam's on ebay in good condition, but sometimes they sell for too much money.

If you are starting out avoid the small sizes as they are really hard to place. Instead try something like 2,3 & 4 sizes of 4-CU, Helium friends or Demon cams but it depends on your crag. I'd make sure you have a crab per cam for racking and of course spare quickdraws to extend them.