UKC

I recently bought a pair of Anasazi Verdes (I've previously had Red Chilli and Evolv shoes). The shoes fit perfectly around my forefoot and feel nice and secure (which is great, as I have strange lengthed toes). However, there is quite a bit of dead space around the heel.

From what I've read online, this is something quite a lot of people experience and put up with, but it just feels quite strange.

Is it something I should just get used to and learn to trust? Or should I have gone for a tighter fit / different shoe? Given the shape of the shoe, I can't imagine that many people would have a snug fit around the heel (or do some people just have really pointy heels)?

Thanks for your help.

In reply to Durkules:

From what I gather, it was just poorly designed on the verdes, and no-one like it. It's now been corrected on the new pinks.

In reply to Durkules:

I have found that different brands fit your feet differently. My heel always is loose in scarpa shoes but almost just right in evolve (not quite though). My toes fit perfectly in both.

Just try loads and loads of shoes.

In reply to Durkules:

I had the same problem with 5.10s - so I sold them.

La Sportivas seem to work for me these days.

In reply to Durkules:

Its a problem with both the whites and the greens. Basically the heel is shite, so if you were planning on bouldering a lot I'd probably get some new shoes as its next to useless when its baggy! For trad and most sport theyre amazing though as the idea behind the heel is to ram your toes into the front of the shoe, so you can get a lot of power through them.

In reply to Durkules:

I found the verdes and velcro 5.10s had a loose heel and put up with it for some time. Many find the same thing. Then I had a revelation when I tried Scarpa Vapor V's which fit me really well and have a great heel.

In reply to Durkules:

Yeah, i always thought the heel was shit on 5.10s, then i tried some boreal storms with a special "grip" heel and found them even worse! Basically, there is a technique to using the 5:10 heel, you just have to place it right, you can use the rear seam and even n some extreme cases the little extra bulge of material can be "hooked" onto a small lip or pebble and suddenly become massively advantageous. weird, but it has worked for me at times!

Adendum: i have never been able to afford to try out sportivas. Many people rate them. it took me loads of tries before i managed to get 5:10 sizing right (1.5 down from street size for me in velcros), i now don't have the money to try a similar uncomfortable quest with a new brand.

In reply to Durkules:

The Verdes fitted me perfectly and I didn't have dead space in the heel. The old version of the pinks used to have tons of dead space for me. I guess it just depends on the shape of your foot.

I've been asking at Urban Rock repeatedly to try on a pair of the new pinks, but they never have my size in stock. Makes me wonder whether Adidas are crap at production or distribution compared to the old company...

In reply to Durkules:

Heel on the Verdes = rubbish. Heel on the Pinks = sorted. I had the same issue with 5.10 until the new Pink. Now they're the best fitting rock shoe I've ever had.

In reply to Durkules:

You can make the heal fit better by slicing the rubber on the back of the heal vertically between the holes, unfortunately you will gain around half a size on each side that you cut and they wont be as rigid.

Katana lace ups are a good alternative.

Andy

In reply to dr_botnik:


If I may be of assistance: three full Euro sizes down from street shoe size for stiffer shoes (Miura, Katana); three and a half for softer slippers (Pythons). Katana Laces are wider than Miura laces. Miura Laces are the best all round climbing shoes I have ever used; Testarossas are even better for limestone redpointing but a bit specialised.

In reply to Durkules:

Thanks everyone. I'll be interested to try a pair of pinks and see how they fit. By appearance I thought the shape of the heel looked the same, but I guess not.

In reply to Durkules:

Same here, Verdes are quite loose at heel for me.