UKC

Heaton Cooper lives on

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 LeeWood 20 Nov 2014
Exhibition starts 20th Nov in Grasmere

http://www.heatoncooper.co.uk/article.php?xArt=47

Superb intro from Gwen Moffat:

Lines of Ascent

An exhibition of William Heaton Cooper’s original guide-book crag drawings for the Fell and Rock Climbing Club, combined with his climbing photographs of the1930’s and 1940’s and paintings and drawings which reference mid-twentieth century climbing.

The exhibition explores the process of imagining new routes and the aesthetics of looking at, drawing, and painting mountains and rock.


Heaton Cooper. A tribute from Gwen Moffat. é

In the forties we lived to climb and everything was new, untried, unexplored. Guide books were essential and two compilers stood out from the rest: Edwards in Snowdonia for his idiosyncrasy, Heaton Cooper for the accuracy of his drawings in the Lakeland guides. He was a man who knew his mountains; in his illustrations the routes are lines running up pencil-shaded rock where every crack and overhang, every buttress is correct and matched neatly to the text.

I still have those guides: over sixty years old, waterworn, mud-stained, dog-eared and annotated and still consulted to verify a date of ascent, noting how I found a route, turning to the plan to see where the next pitch went had I not retreated from the crux.

The guides are one thing, once the climber passes ninety they belong to another time, another world, but, in the 1950s we discovered his paintings and by then people had just enough cash to buy prints. For many climbers the first picture in the first home of their own was a Heaton Cooper. So this was the other thing for, if guides are now little more than reference books, the mountains are part of current living. They are on the other side of the valley, at the end of the lake and through the trees, and if all else fails they are in living rooms, on walls of halls and bedrooms in innumerable homes of mountain lovers.

Heaton Cooper is venerated, and not because he was a climber, a pioneer, a draughtsman and geologist, a man who understood the soul of rock, he was all of these and more: something between a realist and an impressionist. Light and texture are of his essence; water flows and cascades in his becks, whispers in his summer falls – you watch for the glimpse of a dipper. His rock is warm and gritty under the hands: feeling achieved by brush strokes. A sunbeam finds a hole in storm cloud to slip past the black bulk of a mountain and strike water on a shadowed tarn with a colour that is no colour but pure light.

To term the best of his paintings sublime may be dismissed as subjective but no one can challenge nor deny me when I maintain that just one cherished Heaton Cooper can haunt the mind.
 Steve Clegg 20 Nov 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

I remember sitting on a wet campsite in Austria in 1974 and pencilling potential lines on the crag sketches in Fell and Rock guide books - not sure why we'd taken them in the first place!
These were used as the basis for many new routes in the following years.

Steve
 Rog Wilko 20 Nov 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

Thanks for the tip - will drop in.
HC was a fine artist with a style all his own which I think no-one else has equalled.
mick taylor 21 Nov 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

Thanks for that. He was a friend of my Grandfathers - pity I didn't know at the time or else I may may begged a freebie or 2 off him.
OP LeeWood 21 Nov 2014
In reply to mick taylor:

During my years resident in Grasmere (71-78) he was often around in the village - and was a friend of my parents. As a teenager I can't say I 'appreciated' his work or especially the Lakes even, but you know how it is - no sooner had I left than I began to miss the place - (in it's better moods ie. when it stopped raining!) and often reminded by HC portraits - now indisociable.
In reply to LeeWood:
Hope to get to this early next year. I remember the sketches from the FRCC guidebooks which also featured his water colours. In 1978 we moved into a house on the Brathay estate at Ambleside when we first got married and I got a job there. We were quite poor and needed wall decorations so I bought lots of HC s postcards which I mounted on chipboard mounts, chamfered & painted black they looked quite good and looking at them every day allowed me to appreciate them fully - he really could capture light on a crag. I think they are still stored somewhere in our loft.

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