UKC

Hello, we are planning to go to Stanage, as our first independent i.e. without an instructor, trip. Climbing up to 6a's indoors but plan is to find loads of VDiffs or lower and focus on rope work. I've been flicking through my BMC Definitive Guide, but any suggestions on the best area for easy stuff?

Thanks, Chris

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Just go for it pal. Pick routes that look straightforward and within your ability, take it slowly and safely and have a good time.

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Popular rather than Stanage End

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Yeah, Popular end generally.

A really good place for this sort of thing is nearby Burbage North, there are dozens of really good low grade routes of quite short length in the first few hundred yards after the first buttress.

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Remember Diff/VDiff doesn't automatically mean well-protected. Easy unprotected climbing can also fit into those grades, so make your route choices carefully and not blindly by grade.

You might find that the first time you're "on your own" it's a lot more mentally daunting than with someone more experienced than you; this is OK

In reply to chaotic_chris:

As above, Popular End has the highest concentration of easier climbs than other bits of Stanage, although Plantation is worth a look too if you get that far along. I would just add to check out your descent route before starting to climb as the Popular End has some descents that are practically Mod routes in their own right. Enjoy

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Thanks all, we'll start with Popular. Thanks for the advice on protection vs grade and descents. And for the support

In reply to chaotic_chris:

And don't be afraid to ask for advice (if there's anyone there) if you're not sure about belays, gear, knots, route advice or anything.... we've all been there. Enjoy

In reply to chaotic_chris:

There's an area in the middle of the crag (between popular and plantation from memory, but I'm not a regular) which is called 'Away From It All' in the Rockfax guide. The routes there are short and not super-interesting, but they are low grade and very quiet - great for practicing your ropework without getting into trouble. After some practice there you could walk along to the popular end to get on some slightly longer routes.

In reply to Oujmik:

Also Birchen Edge is very good for beginners, lots of low angle, gentle and protected climbs that aren't as high as stanage giving you a chance of limping to the car if you were unlucky enough to take a ground fall.

In reply to chaotic_chris:

There's plenty to go at, but the area called something like 'away from it all' is good, I think there's a route there called 'delightful'. I took my girlfriend there as a first place to climb, and it worked really well. Quiet, short routes so I could talk to her easily from the top, and quite a few moderate - vdiff climbs. Pillar Arete (I think that's the name) is a great little route too, a bit further to the west.

Good luck, I hope you have some good weather for it.

In reply to chaotic_chris:

Just make sure your belays are beyond bombproof. I've seen many bad accidents at Stanage caused by either inadequate belays (sprig of particularly thick heather.. I kid you not), apparently sound belays which move (top of, I think, from memory, heaven crack) when loaded, and the belay set up at an oblique angle to the direction of loading which pulled belayer off the crag top when shock loaded. All these actually happened, and not only to inexperienced climbers.

In reply to hipyhop:


Each to their own, but I'm genuinely mystified as to why Birchens gets such a good beginners crag reputation. It is certainly family friendly, but it has undercut starts, rounded holds, beguiling yet unprotected slabs, worn gear placements and barely adequate belays at the top. None of that is necessarily a bad thing but its hardly conducive to a good first day out on rock. Puzzled!

In reply to chaotic_chris:

I'd recommend the quiet bits of stanage too. i think it's nicer as a beginner to be away from the crowds who can be hell-bent on issuing unwanted advice (to demonstrate their great knowledge and experience).

i remember i started climbing independently in November too. Everything seemed really hard regardless of grade. Later i realised that this was because it was freezing cold.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Agree wholeheartedly. The starts are very tricky indeed on most routes!

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


I think the sheer concentration of short routes in a small area has a lot to do with it. Also on most lower grade routes there (such as on Stokers Wall, Tars Wall etc) the crux is the first move. If you can get off the ground the rest of the route is easy by comparison. The holds are generally pretty good too. Even the slopers and crimps are generally positive and the friction is always good. Personally I find Birchen to be a very friendly crag compared to a lot of the other popular Eastern edges. I regularly enjoy a good day soloing V Diffs and Severes at Birchen but doubt if there's much in that grade range I'd want to solo at Stanage for example.

In reply to DerwentDiluted: Big block at top of Heaven Crack was solid last time I was there a few weeks ago, I think it's been moved into a position where it's less likely to rock.

In reply to aostaman:


+1 , but try to make a judgement check on the competence of anyone you ask. There are the occasional numpties around.