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How do you train at home?

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JRT 26 Nov 2014
Hi guys just wondering how do you guys train at home ? what do you use and what limitations do you come across and how would you improve training at home ?
 goose299 26 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I've got a mini bouldering wall in my garage.
JRT 26 Nov 2014
In reply to goose299:

very cool is that a DIY thing? made from ply ?
 goose299 26 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

Yeh, ply and a lot of wood.
There's loads of designs online

Was a good day building it with some friends.
 AlanLittle 26 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I have a Beastmaker, and do a session or two a week on it, depending on how often I'm able to make it out or to the wall.

The main concern I have with it is warming up sufficiently: if I do fingerboard training at the wall then I warm up with 30 or 40 minutes light-to-middling bouldering and feel safely ready to start working the fingers hard; at home I do some general mobility / whole body warm ups, a few sets of finger curls that might be be better than nothing, and then make sure the first few fb sets are really easy. Seems to have worked so far but it's still a worry.
 cb_6 26 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I have free weights (adjustable dumbbells, barbell and weight plates, and a single kettlebell) a door mounted pull up bar, rock rings since I can't mount a hang board in my rented house. I strength train twice a week on top of climbing three days a week. Not that climbing specific but it's better than nothing.
JRT 26 Nov 2014
In reply to goose299:

do you have any problems with? it is the space needed for it a big issue for you ?
JRT 26 Nov 2014
In reply to cb_6:

Hi thanks for the reply. where do you hang the rock rings ? i keep coming across the problem with people in rented houses and am also looking for a way round it.
 Skipinder 26 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

The Beastmaker site has a few interesting pics from various peoples set ups. The top r/h one may be of interest http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup
JRT 26 Nov 2014
In reply to Skipinder:

cheers interesting stuff
In reply to JRT:

> Hi guys just wondering how do you guys train at home ? what do you use and what limitations do you come across and how would you improve training at home ?

I've got a bouldering cave built in plywood in a double garage, then Beastmakers mounted on ceiling timbers with wood strips with different profiles screwed on other timbers for footless traversing. There's a Campus board which goes through a square hole in the garage ceiling into a store room upstairs.
It started out as a fall back for the dark evenings or rainy weekends when I can't be a***d to drive into Sheffield to the Climbing Works, but progression on the Beastmaker is quite addictive in itself and I've found myself using it more than I anticipated.
Improve training? When I get some time I'll take more of the ceiling out and build a Moon Board with one of the School Room sets of holds. Should keep me amused for a while
JRT 26 Nov 2014
so mainly body weight work outs nothing like the grip master kind of thing?
 goose299 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

no, not at all. got a single mattress and a bouldering pad down for fallling out and a drive long enough for both mine and missus' cars
 AlanLittle 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

> the grip master kind of thing?

Nah. Nowhere near enough resistance to be of any actual training value for climbers. Might be of some value for warming up / rehab for finger injury.
 Cake 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I have a crusher matrix fingerboard which is very similar to a beastmaker. I have been using it once or twice a week depending on whether i can be bothered for about six weeks. After mildly injuring myself on my first session trying maximal strength exercises I have only been doing more power endurance-style exercises on it with both hands on. Besides this I go to the wall for routes or bouldering once a week. I think the difference the board has made in six weeks has been noticeable indoors. I have gone from always struggling on 6c route indoors to doing my first 7a (well after my first 7a outdoors!). I don't know yet whether it will have helped improved outdoor climbing, which is more important to me, but as power endurance is on of my biggest limiting factors I hope it will when spring comes.

By the way, the reason I got the board was from reading 9 out of 10 climbers, which gave me a very clear message to train more. But Dave McLeod particularly stressed the point that to get better at climbing, you need to climb more. I took second best by choosing to only train once a week and supplementing it with a board with no foot or body movement. However, I'd have thought that weights, pull-up bars, etc will have only marginal gains unless there is a specific reason like injury that needs sorting.

Crusher holds make a screwless door frame mounting.

Hoe this may help make some decisions,

Cake
 robin mueller 27 Nov 2014
In reply to Cake:

> Crusher holds make a screwless door frame mounting.

Yeah, this one. Looks like a good solution. http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-mounting/fingerboard-mounting-device-...
 Paul Crusher R 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

There's also a few more ideas of permanant setups in here...
http://crusherholds.co.uk/installation-and-training-manual-free-download

and here's a very simple (and a bit of a rough job ) that I use for PE training at home.. if you have the right space under some stairs. I am as we speak working on sets of system holds for this type of set up and hopefully after the christmas rush will be bring them out..

It may well be worth turning the sound off if you're easily disturbed.. :]
vimeo.com/112742825
1
 planetmarshall 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I go to the gritstone crag outside my house. Bit weather dependent though, which I suppose defeats the object of training at home.
 Cake 27 Nov 2014
In reply to planetmarshall:

> I go to the gritstone crag outside my house. Bit weather dependent though, which I suppose defeats the object of training at home.

There's no need for this
[gnashing of teeth]
 cb_6 27 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I hang them off the pull up bar, pretty much like this: http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk144/naitcherboi/RockRings1.jpg
 paul mitchell 28 Nov 2014
In reply to cb_6:

I use a variety of different strength hand grippers and free weights for bicep curls.Yoga also very useful too.Campussing will trash your elbows and wrists eventually.Better to semi campus with feet resting on something,on small holds.Hangs very beneficial and less trashing.
Steve Haston also uses hand grippers...
 alan moore 30 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:
I usually carry a baby on my right arm and Hoover, mow the lawn and everything else with my left arm.
For lower body, running up and down the stairs is pretty good doing calf raises as you go to avoid stepping on toys.
Have stuck to this regime for a good five years and reckon on losing a climbing grade every year.
 LeeWood 30 Nov 2014
In reply to alan moore:

aye the domestic scene is not so helpful; however I reckon pulling weeds can improve pinch grip
 LeeWood 30 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

I've attempted training during several epoques, but quit due to boredom or worse - injury while training 2x. Thats the last thing you want - training leads to 3-month lay-off
 Craigyboy13 30 Nov 2014
In reply to JRT:

how beneficial is using a finger board? will i see improvements with using one?
 Cake 30 Nov 2014
In reply to Craigyboy13:

Well I've only just got one and I think I've seen improvements in just six weeks (gone from 6c+ to 7a). I'm taking it easy at the moment as I've posted above, but soon I'm going to try cranking hard after a bad first experience. It's no substitute for climbing, but I think someone good once said, "if your landlord won't let you put up a finger board, you need to move house".
 dereke12000 01 Dec 2014
In reply to JRT:

I have to improvise with using various bits of furniture for press ups, sit ups etc, I've put a pull-up bar in the doorway, and have found my steering wheel has just the right amount of give for crimping while I spend hours driving...

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