In reply to timmsy:
Pete W said this after doing Baron Greenback Direct
"1. Bolt 3 is now spinning on its hanger, so when you try and clip it from a distance it moves and rotates, takes ages to clip and is basically a right pumpy nightmare.
2. The bamboo cane I used on the original has started to be commented as a clipstick. My intention wasn't to use the bamboo cane as a clipstick, or else why would i have used a clipstick half way up the route? I would have just clipped them all from the floor. My intentions were to make a stiff quickdraw. there is a big difference in where your lead rope will end up if you use a massive clipstick or massive stiff quickdraw (from the ground or any point on route). Anyway I decided it was getting complicated and people would end up coming to the crag with big clipsticks, which would take part of the challenge away, physically and mentally. So, I decided to equalize bolts 2 and 3 together, before hand, with a sling that had a loop to clip a quickdraw into on lead. very similar to equalising out some old pegs with some tat for example. I thought this was the best option for a number of reasons:
1. It doesn't make a difference to the difficulty of the original Baron by doing this as you still get the down climb and a massive rest so it doesn't matter how you clip the bolts.
2. Bolts 2 and 3 get the load spread between them if a fall is taken onto them, making the life span of the bolts longer and also the route safer for the climber.
3. All quickdraws can still be placed on lead on both routes. The only small negative is that your final piece of gear is slightly lower.
I thought this way was sensible to stop confusion and preserve the bolts."
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68840
