UKC

Hi folks

Staying in Finestrat for a week next Easter. Never been & fairly new to climbing (barely a year & a half in) so not that proficient, happy climbing at HS, challenged but generally successful on VS. Competent on single & multipitch, generally climb trad but have sports experience too.

Given the wealth of climbing down there, does anyone have any recommendations regarding good crags to visit with best bang-per-buck gradewise? Any specific routes worth trying? Any hints & tips? All gratefully received.

I imagine some days we'll just want to hit single pitches with maybe a couple of longer multipitch days thrown in.

Thanks in advanced,

M.

In reply to muzag:

I did some nice easy trad, about HS/VS, at Echo Valley.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1691

Not very long, 4 or 5 pitches I think.

In reply to muzag:

You are staying so close to one of the best multi-pitches in the area it would be a shame to miss it. Espolon Central Direct on the Puig de Campana - never more than HS, a full and great day out.

We found the easier Echo Valley multi pitches - typically 4 pitches - were very unbalanced and in parts scrappy.

Sierra de Toix Oueste is a very good venue where you can combine single pitch sport with multipitch routes that are mainly fully bolted. Espolon Limaban at 5a and Espolon Gris at 4c are good intros to the multipitch, and just along to the east is Toix PLaca, where Oma Sus at 5a has a great top pitch. Loads of good single pitch at Placa also.

Guadalest is an interesting venue, with a mix of single and shorter multipitch but I found the grades a bit tough there. Its a nice town though with good cafes!

Hope this helps as a starter

Dave

In reply to muzag:

Forgot of course to say Sella, although it has a reputation for the easier routes being a bit polished.

The Rockfax database is worth checking out for the comments people have made about individual routes:
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1012

If you are staying at the Orange House, I expect you'll get excellent local beta, although I've never stayed there myself, everyone I know who has done so says good things about it.

Have a good trip

Dave

In reply to full stottie:

For "a bit" read "hideously".

JW

In reply to John Ww:

Just got back, some of the routes at 6b are indeed hideously polished at Toix far oeste, but they are single pitch.
If the thread starter is after a good start on only single pitches, then Murla is pretty good, offering a good variety of grades ... Just wear a helmet as there's plenty of loose stuff!
I like echo valley too, but have only been there once, so memory is a bit vague.

In reply to muzag:

Thanks all. Good tips to get me started researching on some areas

Not staying at Orange House (only became aware of them after booking something further up the hill).

BTW, any tips on reliable car hire? I've seen Lara Cars mentioned a bit as a good one.

Many thanks

Gary