UKC

Hi all,
I am facing the prospect of surgery on my left shoulder, more specifically an excision of the acromio clavicular joint, and while the surgeon says it should eventually leave me in less pain, there is less certainty that I will be able to climb again. This news is quite depressing.
Having trawled the net and come up with zip, I am hoping that the collective wisdom and experience of the forum may reveal a fellow climber that has had an AC excision and lived to climb again close to the pre op grade, which for me is E1/2 trad and 6b sport.
Any experience, both good and bad will be very gratefully received...

Thanks, Paul

In reply to taddersandbadger:
My mate Jonny underwent several medical procedures to correct a dodgy shoulder. None of them worked so a more radical solution was necessary ie a titanium replacement. He was told by his consultant that his climbing days were over. That was over two years ago. Last October he was regularly leading 6a+ at Kalymnos. Don't know if his injury equated to yours but a determination not to give up the sport he loves aligned to an ability to modify ambitions and technique appear to be the important point. Good luck. Keep at it.

In reply to jaygimmer:

Thanks for the words of encouragement, I am determined, whatever happens to not give easily up a part of my life that I love, even if it means adjusting my aspirations a bit.... Would still love to talk to a fellow climber that has had the surgery that are proposing to do on me.

In reply to taddersandbadger:
Well, there are people who climb with one arm...

(I did play at this for a bit when I broke a finger a couple of years ago, could only do 4s and low 5s though, and wasn't really fit to belay).

Neil

In reply to Neil Williams:

Good point, but the other shoulder is heading the same way although not nearly as bad yet, not sure how well I would get on with just the legs, pleased to report no problems there yet, so can still run and cycle

In reply to taddersandbadger:

Yeah, climbing with no arms would be rather more challenging...balancy slabs only I guess...

Neil

In reply to taddersandbadger:

I have had steroid injections administered by an ESP Physio for a similar problem. I've just had my third lot in 5 years. It seems to have staved off the inevitable for a few years and may be worth trying if you haven't already. I should emphasise the ESP Physio and not a GP as the former know a lot more about joint problems in my opinion.

In reply to taddersandbadger:
While I don't know the specifics of your case so can't comment in detail, there is no inherent reason that you shouldn't be able to climb at a similar level after having an ACJ excision. I had a traumatic complete rupture of my ACJ, which I had surgically repaired with an artificial ligament. In effect, my joint looks now almost exactly like you would have after an standard ACJ excision, baring the replacement of one normal ligament with an artificial one (normally you would just have the real one retained in the operation as it shouldn't be affected). A year later, I'm climbing fine (I am a physiotherapist and did plenty of rehab and took it slow though!).

I would advise you to not rush back, follow your post-operative instructions and get yourself to a decent sports or climbing physio after surgery.

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

Hi, thanks Stephen, I have had three rounds of injections in the bad shoulder and two rounds in the good one, which offered immediate all be it temporary relief, the surgeon says that's my lot for the bad one and recommended taking a gram of paracetamol every 8 hours, I am currently on 3 grams a day on climbing days and less if possible on down days, especially after my brother (who is a paramedic) commented that I was probably not doing my liver any favours. The pain is not unbearable most of the time, the biggest problem is that it niggles enough to keep me awake at night. Good advice ref the physio - Imwill heed that.
Thanks
Paul

In reply to Mongoose:

Thanks for so much for that, it has made me a bit more optimistic. I will definitely heed the advice and along with choosing my physio wisely, I will take my time to recover and rebuild. Can I ask if you lost much range of motion and do you still suffer from much pain?

Paul

In reply to taddersandbadger:

I've lost no range of motion at all, though I had done quite a lot of shoulder range of motion and control exercises for general health before the accident. Strength is pretty much back at pre-injury levels. I got my full range back in a few weeks, started weight training at about 8 weeks and returned to climbing 12 weeks post-op.

I get occasional aches, but nothing serious, and nothing that gets in the way of anything. I don't need to take any analgesics.

Of course, your case is different as yours is a chronic condition, and again, I don't know the specifics, but I think you've got room for optimism

In reply to taddersandbadger:

I'm suprised your using paracetamol, i understood that ibroprofen or asprin were weapon of choice - they apparently treat pain and inflamation

In reply to John Kelly:

Paracetamol easier on the kidneys

In reply to John Kelly:

I thought that too, but the orthopaedic specialist who has been treating me said go with paracetamol as it does not hammer the stomach lining as much. Anther suggestion I have had is try mixing both but at lower doses.
Tempted to try that.

In reply to Mongoose:

Thanks so much for that and for taking the time to post and share your experience and wisdom. I am feeling a bit more optimistic

Plus a big thank you to everyone else who took the time.

Cheers
Paul

In reply to Bluebird:

But harder on the liver