UKC

Yesterday, while hanging on the rope, I noticed that the bolt-end krab was pressed flat against the rock, somehow causing the gate to open. The krab seemed to be stretching open too.

When you can't avoid the krab lying flat against the rock (eg, because you've got to clip a bolt), what can you do to mitigate the risk of the rock pressuring the gate open in the event of a fall?

Carry a special locking quickdraw for those eventualities? Are some models of quickdraw less prone to this than others?

In reply to KeithAlexander:

Clip it the other way round, if it'll fit to do that?

Use a pair of screwgates and a sling, if you have them?

Clip two quickdraws back to back, if it'll fit?

Neil

In reply to KeithAlexander:

Use karabiners with shrouded noses like Petzl Ange, BD Oz or WC Helium. Or rotate the karabiner after you´ve clipped. Or use two draws.

In reply to KeithAlexander:


You can use the special Grivel Karabiners what Stevie Haston invented for this very eventuality

In reply to KeithAlexander:

At times I've basket hitched with a sling to avoid biners in weird loading situations. Obviously consider what you're basket hitching too, ring bolts are great.

In reply to KeithAlexander:

Shrouded nose will help, or use one of these Edelrid krabs: http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Pure+Slider

In reply to KeithAlexander:

As well as possibly rotating the krab, and using shrouded noses, then this is an excellent advert for buying krabs with a gate-open strength of 9kN+.

In reply to simon kimber:

Interesting piece of kit that. Always wondered why DMM couldn't make the concept work when they tried it a few years ago.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Agreed.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

FWIW, the krab had a shrouded nose.