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How to train with one month left to go.....

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 tommyzero 03 Dec 2014
Used to climb a lot five or six years ago but had long term absence due to dodgy shoulders. Using a thera-band to rehab my shoulders (which are doing much better if not 100% yet) and have been going to a weight lifting gym just to get in shape again. I've had just a handful of climbing trips recently and half a dozen wall visits.

I'm off outside for a three day climbing trip. I wonder what people think is the best way to train (both in the regular gym and the wall) in order to maximize my fitness without pushing myself?

As far as my grade goes I am not that far off being back at where I was, but I am not really interested in pushing grades anymore. I just want to climb without having miserable shoulders. But my stamina is appalling. So after 2.5 months of going to the gym and doing short sessions (the first month was about making sure I could ease back into exercising and the second month was about lifting the heaviest weight for 12 - 15 reps).

Should I go for a power endurance program in both gyms or can you mix both? I.E wall training is power endurance and gym training is power? I heard it's not good to try and train both at the same time?

I am currently using a theraband 4 or 5 times a week on my shoulders.

Thanks for any input or ideas. It's much appreciated.
 AJM 04 Dec 2014
In reply to tommyzero:

If you want to get climbing fit then do it at the climbing wall imo. Given the base you're starting from and the time you have left I wouldn't bother trying to convince yourself you can adapt gym training to become very relevant - just cut to the chase and do something that's directly relevant.

Some sort of mix of aerobic (climbing) fitness and power endurance would be my suggestion given that from the sounds of things you haven't done any aerobic climbing training in your sessions to date.
 kylo-342 04 Dec 2014
In reply to tommyzero:

I was in a similar position to you about a year ago. Trying to get back into climbing after 10 years of fewer and fewer trips.

I found that although I was plenty strong enough, it took a fair few trips to get my head back into it.

Therefore, my advice to you would be: not to worry about getting any stronger or fitter, because that probably won't be your main limiting factor. Instead go and have a good time doing routes well within your grade, you will have much more fun and will be less likely to injure yourself through training or have an epic!
 mattrm 04 Dec 2014
In reply to kylo-342:

> Therefore, my advice to you would be: not to worry about getting any stronger or fitter, because that probably won't be your main limiting factor. Instead go and have a good time doing routes well within your grade, you will have much more fun and will be less likely to injure yourself through training or have an epic!

This ++. You won't be able to do anything much fitness wise. Just have a fun time and concentrate on getting loads of climbing done both before the trip and during the trip. But whatever you do, don't go nuts down the gym and injure yourself just before you go out for the trip.
 Jon Stewart 04 Dec 2014
In reply to tommyzero:

the gym won't improve your climbing, the wall will. Fitness is really easy to train - it comes and goes quickly unlike strength. Do laps on easy routes (20-30 per session, blocks of 4 to 7, toproping after initial lead if not too steep). You'll be considerable fitter after a month.

note: this won't do much for p.e. So if you're into redpointing hard routes, then go indoors and redpoint hard routes. But it will improve the fitness needed to hang around on trad (and i guess onsight sport).
 Mutl3y 04 Dec 2014
In reply to tommyzero:

Best training article I ever read:

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/5-minutes-training-plan-versus-5-ye...

And lose some weight.

Do both of those things and your climbing will benefit. For real.
 timmeh81 04 Dec 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> This ++. You won't be able to do anything much fitness wise. Just have a fun time and concentrate on getting loads of climbing done both before the trip and during the trip. But whatever you do, don't go nuts down the gym and injure yourself just before you go out for the trip.

Yep. Unless you are an extremely accomplished climber the only thing you should be doing to prepare for a climbing trip is climbing - as much of it as you can handle without getting injured.

OP tommyzero 05 Dec 2014
In reply to Mutl3y:

Thanks everybody and thanks Mutl3y for the link. I liked that article.

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