UKC

Looking to get my first pair of mountaineering boots. Just looking for some advice on how long they are likely to need breaking in for? And any suggestions on the best method?
Cheers
CC

In reply to Confused Chimp:

Depends if there b1, b2 or b3. I normally just brake them in by going for a walk, you could take some trainers just in case they rub. A couple of 10 mile walks should do it. You could just pop them on to go shopping etc as well.

Do not be afraid to play around with the lacing to ease pressure etc plus take some comprador type blister plasters with you

HTH Davey

In reply to Confused Chimp:

Is it just me, or is a boot/ shoe that "needs breaking in" actually one that doesn't fit you properly?

I know it is the traditional theory that mountain boots are supposed to be broken in. But I don't think I believe this theory any more. I just think that if a pair of shoes is MY pair of shoes, that I paid for, then part of what I've paid for should be THAT THEY DON'T HURT AT ALL AT ANY STAGE.

Anyway--and here I get really bitter --whenever I have tried breaking in boots, usually the result has been that they've broken me in.

In reply to Tim Chappell:

Agree, I have very wide feet so difficult to get correct fitting boots, but none the less "breaking in" means making your feet fit the boot unless they are made of leather softer than your feet.

You are not going to "break in" plastics.

So just make sure they fit correctly.

Best to try them after having done at least a 10 mile walk so your feet will have expanded by at least one size. And then still need wriggle room for your toes if going any where cold.

Good insoles such as superfeet help keep you feet in place where the boot has space.

In reply to Confused Chimp:




Piss in them - preferably in the shop.

In reply to Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt:

Will take a while to get that little bit of flex in the toe ( VERY little flex if they are a very stiff boot). If its a B2 or 3 boot then they won't perform like your usual walking book on the approach before you put your crampons on. There's no flex so your heel may try to ride up a bit. A boot to take a crampon should (I think??) also be a little tighter to prevent play, so there may be some hot spots until, like others have said here, you get the lacing right.

My latest pair of winter boots took half a winter season to break in from new. This allowed the inners of the boot to mold to the shape of my foot (and my foot to mould to the shape of the boot!)

I also always have to put plenty of climbing tape on my heels for the first couple of outings in my winter boots to start the season with. I wouldn't last 5 miles without this life saver - Works a treat!

In reply to ogreville:

Regarding your use of climbing tape with your boots:

I really am certain I'm going to have to cover my heels and maybe even my whole feet with the stuff this winter when I acquire my new boots. Any tips on the best brand, best method of applying, layering etc etc. Thanks!

In reply to SonyaM:

I use Dreamtape, which I find the stickiest, or you could try metolious finger tape which is also good.

I normally do five strips, each of index finger length. One higher and one lower on the heel, two overlapping the joins, then one to add an extra layer on the part I always get blisters on. It needs to be really flat and precise, so angel your toes upwards to tighten the skin on your heels while applying the tape.

Be careful to trim/release any leg hairs that are caught half way under the tape or they'll pull and sting for the whole day.

In reply to Tim Chappell:

I think it hugely depends on your foot as well. I have never needed to break in a pair of boots, so if I get blisters I'm either wearing wrong socks/wrong lacing, or the boot doesn't fit my foot. Leather boots definitely stretch and deform a bit, as much from weathering, and any treatment you put on them, as your foot shape. But I'd be surprised if synthetic boots did very much "breaking in", except maybe forming creased bending points, but ideally those should be designed into the boot. I suppose the sole will break in as it goes through a number of flex cycles, but that could (should?) also be designed into the boot, or part of manufacture could be putting the boot through flex cycles.

In reply to Confused Chimp:

I'm with a couple of other posters on this. It isn't so much that the boots need breaking in - very stiff ones won't anyway - its your own feet. And its mainly down to fit I think.

Over the years I've got much better at buying the right sized boot/shoe rather than buying the 'right' make, colour or material. My feet are comfortable from the minute I wear them normally.. OK you may get a bit of rubbing here and there at the start. I used to put a plaster or whatever on the minute I felt that it was starting to rub. .

In reply to Confused Chimp: My last two pairs of Winter boots (Sportiva Nepal Extreme and Scarpa Jorrasses Pro) have been comfortable straight out the box.
That seems to be fairly common these days and is no doubt testament to the amount of time and effort Scarpa, Sportiva and other manufacturers have put into development of their lasts and construction methods to enable the widest range of fit.

In reply to SonyaM:
For specific areas of rubbing, heels in my case which are narrow and allow a bit too much heel lift, I have used Engo patches for years in stiffer boots. http://www.goengo.co.uk . Heel patches mainly but have occasionally used the large round ones. They attach to the boot and last a long time (many months) if your careful when you put your boots on; I use a shoe horn.

Only tape I ever found effective for my skin was the original Boots sports strapping which was stretchy and had adhesive on one side with a backing paper, but they stopped making it the way it was, and since the newer stuff was much poorer, this lead me to Engo patches. Used http://www.bodyglide.com on top of the tape for extra protection. Now use the bodyglide on the skin direct. With the combo of Engo and bodyglide, I can't remember when I last had a blister.

Bodyglide maybe worth trying if you have never used it, even if on top of tape as it will reduce the friction on the tape. Just don't put it under sticky tape as the tape will come off or move too easily!