In reply to AJM:
Minor progress with hurty elbow this week after giving it a bit more rest and doing some eccentrics.
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Fisheye & Humildes pas Casa, Oliana.
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- 7b multi-pitch on weekend break to Costa Blanca
- Stay in gainful employment – 30% chance of redundancy by end of March
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year.
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad elbow)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 76.8kg and 6.9% BF. New mantra is “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Next week)
- Rest/ice/fix elbow
- Gentle finger-boarding
- Go to gym for all-round conditioning
- New Dimensions, 7b, and some Wildside onsighting
Last week:
M - Gentle fingerboard (1); 6 sets of static part of session. Wrist ached, hence no max pull-ups.
T - 380 core movements. 40 Press-ups.
W - Split Infinity & Parisellas by lamplight; psyched! Lickety Split (7A+) took ages to work out again and do, but pleasantly surprised by number of things I managed in the cave, but equally dismayed by the things I couldn’t touch that used to be pretty standard part of my cave circuit. Elbow & wrist soreness increased, so sacked it off before power left me. 14 problems V3 to V8.
T - Some eegit reversed into my car whilst driving to work. Livid. Stretched. 280 core movements. Elbow and wrist eccentrics.
F - Cycled to work & back
S - Brean. Nasty new 6b to warm-up. Flash pump trying to on-sight L’Attraction Fatale (7c). Did it 2nd go with improvised RP sequence. Worked Milky Bar Kid. Thought I’d found the best sequence for the top (El Chocco mantle) but dropped it on RP when elbows went out and wasn’t willing to push it and make injury worse. Epic xmas meal with champagne, home brew & red wine (some of the volume was tactically downgraded ;-o)
S - Fresher than expected. Wyndcliffe quarry suntrap. 2x E2, E3, 3x 6c+, 7a+. Split tip on a super bouldery “7b”. Cycled into city to watch fireworks over Avon gorge celebrating 150 years of Brunel’s bridge.
2 bottles wine, 4 beers – no wonder the weight is stratospheric!