UKC

Wall rope

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 Ciderslider 08 Dec 2014
Being a southern dweller a lot of my climbing goes on indoors (particularly during the winter). I've been using an old mammut 10mm rope which is serving well.
I've been doing a lot of leading recently, and been practicing taking big lead falls (and I don't mean slumps - upto 15+ ft).
The rope looks fine although kind of looks stretched and a bit flat. I've heard that with indoor most of the lead falls don't tax the rope at all and you can use it for a long time.
Any advice - also can any of you recommend a good rope just for wall/indoor lead use.
 jkarran 08 Dec 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

I just buy the cheapest 10mm I can find a 30m length of then use it until I can no longer trim the ruined bits off.

jk
 thermal_t 08 Dec 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/frontpage/products/mammut-10mm-30m...

Look no further, cheap as chips and you get to support a small independent climbing shop whilst you are at it. Win win.
 PPP 08 Dec 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

http://www.sportsdirect.com/dmm-shorty-30m-climbing-rope-784299
DMM Shorty is a fantastic rope. Handles so well and seems to be durable. The most popular rope at local climbing wall (I suppose because of the fact that that's the only one indoor rope in their shop).

I guess it would be worth taking a look at what kind of ropes other people use at your wall. I have once stolen someone else's rope with a furry end and I thought that I didn't notice it happening last session. After one hour, one man came to me and asked what rope am I using. I told that it's a Beal rope. He said, "yes, but that's my rope". I was talking to my friend while unpacking stuff, took the plastic bag in which I store the rope, put it on the ground and took the other rope. That was embarrassing!
In reply to Ciderslider:

Hi. I have had a similar experience. I have a 30m dedicated indoor wall rope that is about 7 years old. I climb twice a week indoors and mainly always on the lead and it is unusual not to take at least one whipper a session. We tend to belay with Gri Gris a fair bit and I find this tends to squeeze the rope into an oval shape with time.

Having spoken to others, I lead on the other end after a big fall, to allow the "stretched end" to recover, and otherwise inspect it regularly for any visible signs of wear, which there are none, so I am happy to continue using it.

I am sure the more cerebral UKC'ers will jump on this like a tramp on a sandwich and tell us why this is wrong, quoting various "pull test studies" and other exciting things but rope life is not an exact science and I have seen 1 week old ropes past their sell by date following abuse - usually outside.
Well done On sighting Cemetry gates, it was my first E1 and I struggled
 deepsoup 09 Dec 2014
In reply to taddersandbadger:
> We tend to belay with Gri Gris a fair bit and I find this tends to squeeze the rope into an oval shape with time.

Possibly a little bit unfair on the Grigri - I've had ropes go oval that never saw a Grigri in their lives.
In reply to deepsoup:

True, and I don't see being a bit oval as a problem at all in terms of the strength and integrity of the rope.

Thinking about it more, I have not noticed this flattening on my half or twin ropes but it is probably less obvious as they are of a lesser diameter so it won't be that obvious plus they don't get as much use.

Any rope gurus out there that can tell us if we should be worried?

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