UKC

We're in El Chorro for the first time next week. What are the best crags & must-do routes? F5 and low 6s please. I'm liking the look of Amptrax so pointers to any similar routes would be appreciated. We have a car for transport.

In reply to SteveM:

Ah, winter trip to Chorro <sniffs and wipes nostalgic tear away...>

I'm sure others will be along with some more detailed recommendations, but I would say two things: (1) avoid Los Cotos and (2) head up to Escalera Arabe - some really nice routes, I think more low 6s than 5s, in a beautiful setting. Yes, Amptrax is a must do as well.

In reply to SteveM:

I enjoyed Rogelio - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112704 and Valentines Day http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112644 on the multipitch front and Luna - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112521 on the single pitch

In reply to thedatastream:

Rogelio was excellent. Although there is one tough move, there are sufficient bolts at that point to allow a cheeky pull on quickdraws if necessary.

In reply to SteveM:

Amptrax is good; we abbed down after the harder pitches but carrying on looked good - might be fully bolted now?

If you've got a car it's worth driving to Turon for the big slabby pitches there. If it's hot go to Desplomilanida and work your way up through the routes at Bueno Sombre - some of the Rockfax 'top 50' routes are a little overhyped but they're all enjoyable enough and it's a great mileage crag in the low-mid 6s.

In reply to SteveM:

I've just come back from a 2 week there and have been once before. I agree with what has been said so far, Amptrax is brilliant (you don't need any trad gear like the Rockfax guide says its all fully bolted now), Rogellio is ok if you want an amazing view and the vultures flying about you, but the climbing is either really easy or just really loose and scruffy (especially the crux pitch). Rogellio top pitches won't be in the rockfax guide (in there its only noted as a top 50 '4') but just keep following the bolts.
You won't be able to get to Los Cotos because of the current gorge construction, but its polished to hell and isn't a great loss.
Turon is brilliant as people have noted, and the climbs in the bottom end of Frontales (notably Luna and Putifero (tough for grade)) and Escalera Arabe are great!
If you have a car and are willing to travel then my favourite crag of the trip was Loja, it was worth going for Patranas (6a+) alone, a top 50 if ever there was one.
Valle de Abdalajis has some good climbs but some are notoriously undergraded, you'll need to add one or two grades onto some of the more popular routes, notably the grade 4s and 5s in the Cantolandia area.
Hope that's a help
Matt

In reply to Matt Smith:

I agree with most of the above. Do Amptrax and go all the way to the top, its brilliant. I would take a small rack though (half a set of nuts and cams 2 & 3), although it is bolted all the way to the top they get a little spaced in the last 2 pitches and if there is a belay at the top I haven't found it in 2 ascents so always belayed off gear.

Get valentines day done too!

In reply to SteveM:

Thanks folks. Valle de Abdalajis has been recommended by friends (yes, I was listening Spraggle! ;0). Sounds like plenty to keep us busy for the week...

In reply to SteveM:

Is there room in your suitcase for me?

In reply to willworkforfoodjnr:

No need for any sort of rack on Amptrax in my experience! I found it well bolted and pretty easy to follow.

If you're staying at the Olive Branch then asking the folks there for some suggestions of what to go at would be worthwhile - they'll probably have loads of good ideas!