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Got plans of maybe going to Chamonix for a quick trip to tick the American direct on the petite dry. Can anybody provide me with some links for good typos etc. also some advice from anybody who has has an attempt on the route as to when is best to try and what the difficulties are. Thanks
1
In reply to hilty:
I'm happy to proven mistaken on this one but I was under the impression that climbing on the nth face of the dru in summer time was pretty much considered suicidal due to instability of the face. So in answer to your question maybe try it in winter?
I'm happy to proven mistaken on this one but I was under the impression that climbing on the nth face of the dru in summer time was pretty much considered suicidal due to instability of the face. So in answer to your question maybe try it in winter?
In reply to Frank4short:
The American Direct is on whats left of the West Face.
> I'm happy to proven mistaken on this one but I was under the impression that climbing on the nth face of the dru in summer time was pretty much considered suicidal due to instability of the face. So in answer to your question maybe try it in winter?
The American Direct is on whats left of the West Face.
In reply to hilty:
Well thanks for not helping, don't know what crap your talking about to be honest? I'll just get on the route and see.
Nothing to do with ego mate, I just couldn't find much of a topo that was very good and just asking for some help, no need to be a jumped prick about things is there?
Well thanks for not helping, don't know what crap your talking about to be honest? I'll just get on the route and see.
Nothing to do with ego mate, I just couldn't find much of a topo that was very good and just asking for some help, no need to be a jumped prick about things is there?
Post edited at 21:41
1
In reply to Tom Last:
Almost too good to be true! I literally laughed out loud. Though strictly speaking it's not really Freudian (unless I'm missing something).
To the OP: Have you looked at this? https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36731 There is a link to a topo.
> (In reply to hilty)
>
> Amazing Freudian slip!
>
> Amazing Freudian slip!
Almost too good to be true! I literally laughed out loud. Though strictly speaking it's not really Freudian (unless I'm missing something).
To the OP: Have you looked at this? https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36731 There is a link to a topo.
Post edited at 21:53
In reply to hilty:
yep, welcome to ukc c2014. people would rather take the piss than help out. I'm not sure why I'm even here other than out of annoyance that you should ask a good question and be replied to by an assortment of dickheads.
yep, welcome to ukc c2014. people would rather take the piss than help out. I'm not sure why I'm even here other than out of annoyance that you should ask a good question and be replied to by an assortment of dickheads.
2
2
In reply to hilty:
Haha I know, always some keyboard warrior wi nowt better to do. Thanks pal, just wanted a bit of help, climbers used to be a helpful bunch, seems I was wrong. I spoken to a lad who said he nearly got she'll shock after all the rock fall on the route. Climbed a few fairly tough rock routes in Cham so hopefully I'll pull it off. Thanks for the link
Haha I know, always some keyboard warrior wi nowt better to do. Thanks pal, just wanted a bit of help, climbers used to be a helpful bunch, seems I was wrong. I spoken to a lad who said he nearly got she'll shock after all the rock fall on the route. Climbed a few fairly tough rock routes in Cham so hopefully I'll pull it off. Thanks for the link
1
In reply to hilty: Do you want to top out or are you just thinking of climbing to the top of the 90m diedre and them abseiling off?
Either way the 90m diedre is the technical crux; two moderate length pitches of solid E3 if you are going well, but could well feel harder.
However, if you head onto the summit, don't be surprised if the whole summit ridge and descent all feel a bit tiring and hard work. I've talked to various people who've done that and it always sounded fairly involved
I climbed it in group of three in Sept '09 to the top of the diedre and then we abseiled. We led in 5-6 pitch blocks and found it a fantastic and fairly chilled (by alpine standards) route. However, all three of us were climbing very solidly and especially when seconding we pretty much cruised everything below the diedre.
Anyway, it's a stunning route and the 6b layback pitch is utterly superb and some of the best climbing I've ever done.
Either way the 90m diedre is the technical crux; two moderate length pitches of solid E3 if you are going well, but could well feel harder.
However, if you head onto the summit, don't be surprised if the whole summit ridge and descent all feel a bit tiring and hard work. I've talked to various people who've done that and it always sounded fairly involved
I climbed it in group of three in Sept '09 to the top of the diedre and then we abseiled. We led in 5-6 pitch blocks and found it a fantastic and fairly chilled (by alpine standards) route. However, all three of us were climbing very solidly and especially when seconding we pretty much cruised everything below the diedre.
Anyway, it's a stunning route and the 6b layback pitch is utterly superb and some of the best climbing I've ever done.
1
1
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Nice one pal, I'd like to top out, see how fit I am though, I had my eye on it in 2012, but didn't feel like it on my first alpine trip. I have a lot more experience now and think I'd be able to take it on. E3? Sounds like I could wobble my way up lol. Thanks for the help. Was rockfall an issue? I've heard a few horror stories about blocks sailing past on a regular basis, and any idea of if it's best to climb early or late in the season. If I were to top out I'd defo have a bivi at the top of the diedre.
Nice one pal, I'd like to top out, see how fit I am though, I had my eye on it in 2012, but didn't feel like it on my first alpine trip. I have a lot more experience now and think I'd be able to take it on. E3? Sounds like I could wobble my way up lol. Thanks for the help. Was rockfall an issue? I've heard a few horror stories about blocks sailing past on a regular basis, and any idea of if it's best to climb early or late in the season. If I were to top out I'd defo have a bivi at the top of the diedre.
Post edited at 22:32
In reply to hilty:
There's a diagram and photo topo in the new Batoux book but no pitch descriptions. Gives you an idea of where it goes and pitch technical grades.
There's a diagram and photo topo in the new Batoux book but no pitch descriptions. Gives you an idea of where it goes and pitch technical grades.
In reply to Misha:
I've got the batou book but I wanted a lil more in depth detail about it. I spent nearly a full trip on the bivi at the envers looking at the dru and shitting myself, but really wanted to one day get on that route. I'm going to give it my best shot and see how it goes.
Also heard that the tech grade on the topo is bollocks too ha. Supposed to be way harder.
I've got the batou book but I wanted a lil more in depth detail about it. I spent nearly a full trip on the bivi at the envers looking at the dru and shitting myself, but really wanted to one day get on that route. I'm going to give it my best shot and see how it goes.
Also heard that the tech grade on the topo is bollocks too ha. Supposed to be way harder.
Post edited at 23:07
1
In reply to tom84:
If you can't beat them, join them. I used to get wound up by this like you are.
It's quite funny if you take a step back!
Besides you eventually get the help you need usually.
> yep, welcome to ukc c2014. people would rather take the piss than help out. I'm not sure why I'm even here other than out of annoyance that you should ask a good question and be replied to by an assortment of dickheads.
If you can't beat them, join them. I used to get wound up by this like you are.
It's quite funny if you take a step back!
Besides you eventually get the help you need usually.
1
In reply to hilty:
I was there when the west face fell down, can't remember which season, 2002/3 I think. We were on the Mer de Glacé at the time. Hotel sized blocks coming down, dust on cars in Cham. Put me off going anywhere near that face in Summer.
Good luck. A few fiends of mine have said it is one of the best long rock routes in the Alps. (Pre rock fall I may add).
> Haha I know, always some keyboard warrior wi nowt better to do. Thanks pal, just wanted a bit of help, climbers used to be a helpful bunch, seems I was wrong. I spoken to a lad who said he nearly got she'll shock after all the rock fall on the route. Climbed a few fairly tough rock routes in Cham so hopefully I'll pull it off. Thanks for the link
I was there when the west face fell down, can't remember which season, 2002/3 I think. We were on the Mer de Glacé at the time. Hotel sized blocks coming down, dust on cars in Cham. Put me off going anywhere near that face in Summer.
Good luck. A few fiends of mine have said it is one of the best long rock routes in the Alps. (Pre rock fall I may add).
Post edited at 23:47
In reply to hilty:
Was rockfall an issue? I've heard a few horror stories about blocks sailing past on a regular basis, and any idea of if it's best to climb early or late in the season.
Just a guess: the sort of rockfall occurring on Les Drus over the last couple of decades derives more from - let's say - geological causes than seasonal ones; ie it probably won't make any difference what time of year you try it. Being a long rock route I'd tend towards longer rather than shorter daylight hours.
Was rockfall an issue? I've heard a few horror stories about blocks sailing past on a regular basis, and any idea of if it's best to climb early or late in the season.
Just a guess: the sort of rockfall occurring on Les Drus over the last couple of decades derives more from - let's say - geological causes than seasonal ones; ie it probably won't make any difference what time of year you try it. Being a long rock route I'd tend towards longer rather than shorter daylight hours.
In reply to hilty: Not certain but I think most parties try to bivvy around/past the summit. There is certainly a good bivvy spot below the 90m diedre but not sure about above it.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Thanks for clearing that up for me, thought I had heard about a bivi somewhere around there then onto the north face. I'd just like to stand on top of there, it would feel a bit of an anti climax not getting the summit and I like a bit of an epic/adventure
Thanks for clearing that up for me, thought I had heard about a bivi somewhere around there then onto the north face. I'd just like to stand on top of there, it would feel a bit of an anti climax not getting the summit and I like a bit of an epic/adventure
In reply to hilty:
There's a good bivi just before you reach the North shoulder - not so good when you get hit by a lightening storm at one in the morning though
> Thanks for clearing that up for me, thought I had heard about a bivi somewhere around there then onto the north face. I'd just like to stand on top of there, it would feel a bit of an anti climax not getting the summit and I like a bit of an epic/adventure
There's a good bivi just before you reach the North shoulder - not so good when you get hit by a lightening storm at one in the morning though
In reply to hilty:
Wow, getting called a prick by you and a dickhead by another - pretty unhinged sort of reaction to pointing out your Freudian slip, which in itself was neither a criticism nor taking the piss - more of a compliment in fact! I don't know the first thing about that route so couldn't have helped you anyway; I'd have counted it as a bump.
To be fair, apart from the odd silly comment, I try to be helpful on here, when it's stuff I do have a little knowledge about and like most I receive scant thanks when I do bother.
So getting called a prick is a little strong
don't you think? Maybe you were having a bad day, but do try to relax a little.
Like I said, good luck with the route
Wow, getting called a prick by you and a dickhead by another - pretty unhinged sort of reaction to pointing out your Freudian slip, which in itself was neither a criticism nor taking the piss - more of a compliment in fact! I don't know the first thing about that route so couldn't have helped you anyway; I'd have counted it as a bump.
To be fair, apart from the odd silly comment, I try to be helpful on here, when it's stuff I do have a little knowledge about and like most I receive scant thanks when I do bother.
So getting called a prick is a little strong
don't you think? Maybe you were having a bad day, but do try to relax a little.
Like I said, good luck with the route
Post edited at 10:22
5
In reply to hilty: i did it 20+'Years ago and obviously a lot has changed/fallen down since then. I do not recall the diedre as E3 but is v, sustained. The bottom slags are easy but there is some rockfall. Higher up it is steeper - i was used to climbing a lot of english 5b in a day so was fit but ithink it would be hard with a big sack.
I climbed it in summer as a day trip not long before the Bonatti pillar fell down
I climbed it in summer as a day trip not long before the Bonatti pillar fell down
In reply to hilty:
We managed the route back in 1990, so this info may well be out of date.
We thought the first 8 pitches or so where about uk VS /HVS, no bolts for protection ( which was fine) then a number of pitches that would have been E1 with at least two pitches of E2 plus the crux which we thought was about hard E2 / E3, again no bolts but pegs at each stance. As a pure rock climb it was one of the best at the grade, unfortunately I'm not sure about the current status of the route, but if its stable then it's well worth the effort
We managed the route back in 1990, so this info may well be out of date.
We thought the first 8 pitches or so where about uk VS /HVS, no bolts for protection ( which was fine) then a number of pitches that would have been E1 with at least two pitches of E2 plus the crux which we thought was about hard E2 / E3, again no bolts but pegs at each stance. As a pure rock climb it was one of the best at the grade, unfortunately I'm not sure about the current status of the route, but if its stable then it's well worth the effort
Post edited at 20:50
In reply to hilty:
Now that you've been through the UKC washing machine
I did the route in 1985 so pre recent major rockfalls. We went to the summit with a bivvy on the German's ledge which is just after the 90m diedre and is probably right on the edge of the rockfall area with nothing above being currently safely climbable. Slideshow here - http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/slideshow.php?s=american_direct
Steady climbing but exposed to rockfall on the lower slabs then a series of solid E1 cracks and corners leading to the jammed block, nothing technical but all quite sustained. An easy pitch leads to the 90m diedre. Two pitches up this - probably bottom end E3 but you've done a lot of climbing to get there. Nowadays you head left from the top of this on to the N. Face, when we did it we went rightwards to the German's ledge. N.B. read Rene Desmaison's book about why it's so called.
Now that you've been through the UKC washing machine
I did the route in 1985 so pre recent major rockfalls. We went to the summit with a bivvy on the German's ledge which is just after the 90m diedre and is probably right on the edge of the rockfall area with nothing above being currently safely climbable. Slideshow here - http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/slideshow.php?s=american_direct
Steady climbing but exposed to rockfall on the lower slabs then a series of solid E1 cracks and corners leading to the jammed block, nothing technical but all quite sustained. An easy pitch leads to the 90m diedre. Two pitches up this - probably bottom end E3 but you've done a lot of climbing to get there. Nowadays you head left from the top of this on to the N. Face, when we did it we went rightwards to the German's ledge. N.B. read Rene Desmaison's book about why it's so called.
In reply to hilty:
http://allyswinton.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-09-15T06:47:00-07...
Thursday 21 July
http://allyswinton.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-09-15T06:47:00-07...
Thursday 21 July
3
In reply to hilty:
Not sure how much help this is, but you can watch Christophe Profit solo the route back in 1982.
Nicolas Philibert - Christophe (1985): youtube.com/watch?v=kzkgUbqWHo0&
Not sure how much help this is, but you can watch Christophe Profit solo the route back in 1982.
Nicolas Philibert - Christophe (1985): youtube.com/watch?v=kzkgUbqWHo0&
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
"Nicolas Philibert - Christophe (1985): youtube.com/watch?v=kzkgUbqWHo0&"
That's really quite a stunning bit of telly. Thanks for linking to it.
I recommend anyone who hasn't seen it to give it half an hour of their time, right now.
"Nicolas Philibert - Christophe (1985): youtube.com/watch?v=kzkgUbqWHo0&"
That's really quite a stunning bit of telly. Thanks for linking to it.
I recommend anyone who hasn't seen it to give it half an hour of their time, right now.
In reply to hilty:
Myself and Keith Myhill once spent a whole winter planning the first ascent of the AD on the Dru, spotted from a photograph, we abandoned our plans when we found it had allready been done.
Myself and Keith Myhill once spent a whole winter planning the first ascent of the AD on the Dru, spotted from a photograph, we abandoned our plans when we found it had allready been done.
In reply to Al Evans:
In 1962 Al
> Myself and Keith Myhill once spent a whole winter planning the first ascent of the AD on the Dru, spotted from a photograph, we abandoned our plans when we found it had allready been done.
In 1962 Al
In reply to Pete Houghton:
I agree. Some serious effort went into filming the climbing sections. I found the part where he stops and backs off a few moves of the 90m diedre and appears a bit gripped rather nervewracking to watch. Would love to do the route, had it on the radar many years ago but not sure now. The climbing looks fantastic.
> "Nicolas Philibert - Christophe (1985): youtube.com/watch?v=kzkgUbqWHo0&"
> That's really quite a stunning bit of telly. Thanks for linking to it.
> I recommend anyone who hasn't seen it to give it half an hour of their time, right now.
I agree. Some serious effort went into filming the climbing sections. I found the part where he stops and backs off a few moves of the 90m diedre and appears a bit gripped rather nervewracking to watch. Would love to do the route, had it on the radar many years ago but not sure now. The climbing looks fantastic.
In reply to hilty:
Also did it many yrs ago, pre rock fall, in a day
Was young,fit and a little stupid, but we were so fit then
Training session
Have good day climbing at froggatt, head to millstone
put hanky in your mouth
Climb Great North Rd, abb off, run over to dexterity and lead, abb off repeat sequence, then run over to regent st and finish. no big boots or rucksacks!!
If you want to go back to froggatt and climb..you will have a good time on it!!
If you want to go to Millstone pub after, it will be a tough outing.
hope that helps, dont underestimate it..but great route..have pic in my kitchen to remind me (front cover Mountain 126, for all those who remember that mag)
Nick B
Also did it many yrs ago, pre rock fall, in a day
Was young,fit and a little stupid, but we were so fit then
Training session
Have good day climbing at froggatt, head to millstone
put hanky in your mouth
Climb Great North Rd, abb off, run over to dexterity and lead, abb off repeat sequence, then run over to regent st and finish. no big boots or rucksacks!!
If you want to go back to froggatt and climb..you will have a good time on it!!
If you want to go to Millstone pub after, it will be a tough outing.
hope that helps, dont underestimate it..but great route..have pic in my kitchen to remind me (front cover Mountain 126, for all those who remember that mag)
Nick B
In reply to Dave:
According to Vertical magazine he cruised that bit on the actual solo, but had to stop and climb back down when he repeated some sections (not the whole climb) solo for the filming. Shows how much of a mind game soloing at that level is.
CB
According to Vertical magazine he cruised that bit on the actual solo, but had to stop and climb back down when he repeated some sections (not the whole climb) solo for the filming. Shows how much of a mind game soloing at that level is.
CB
In reply to Al Evans:
Hi Al
Keith had a fantastic eye for a line both in UK [Fernhill, Empire] and abroad from Greenland to Patagonia. I really enjoyed my time climbing with him, which only came to an end after the Green Death episode; which nearly was!!
Did the A.D. in 1976 with someone I met in the Nash. fantastic route
Hope alls well with you
Cheers
Phil
Hi Al
Keith had a fantastic eye for a line both in UK [Fernhill, Empire] and abroad from Greenland to Patagonia. I really enjoyed my time climbing with him, which only came to an end after the Green Death episode; which nearly was!!
Did the A.D. in 1976 with someone I met in the Nash. fantastic route
Hope alls well with you
Cheers
Phil
In reply to planetmarshall:
Brilliant. Thanks. Its been a while since my hands got sweaty watching a climbing film!
Brilliant. Thanks. Its been a while since my hands got sweaty watching a climbing film!
In reply to becauseitsthere:
Agreed. Stunning little film. The way he romped up the lower bits made the crux seem all the scarier.
Agreed. Stunning little film. The way he romped up the lower bits made the crux seem all the scarier.
In reply to rocksol:
Hi Phil
Did you know Keith was an accomplished long distance swimmer too? He once swam the double Windermere race. Now I think he just potters about on yachts!
> Hi Al
> Keith had a fantastic eye for a line both in UK [Fernhill, Empire] and abroad from Greenland to Patagonia. I really enjoyed my time climbing with him, which only came to an end after the Green Death episode; which nearly was!!
> Did the A.D. in 1976 with someone I met in the Nash. fantastic route
> Hope alls well with you
> Cheers
> Phil
Hi Phil
Did you know Keith was an accomplished long distance swimmer too? He once swam the double Windermere race. Now I think he just potters about on yachts!
In reply to Al Evans:
Would have still been an impressive tick, and very early repeat either way Al.
> This was 1967, we were a bit out of date on the line.
Would have still been an impressive tick, and very early repeat either way Al.
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