In reply to AJM:
Elbow is taking longer than expected to heal up; but some gentle (!) outdoor climbing this weekend seems to have got me back on track.
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Fisheye & Humildes pas Casa, Oliana.
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Stay in gainful employment – 30% chance of redundancy by end of March
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year.
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad elbow)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 77.3kg and 7.0% BF. New mantra is “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Last/next week)
- Rest/ice/fix elbow – tick - repeat
- Gentle finger-boarding – tick - repeat
- Go to gym for all-round conditioning – fail – try again
- New Dimensions, 7b, and some Wildside onsighting – fail/tick
Last week:
M - Gentle fingerboard (repeaters); 4 sets of 7on/3off 35 degree slopers (+2kg) & 4 sets of 7on/3off pinches (+2kg). Felt like I had to try hard. 280 core movements. Antags and elbow eccentrics.
T - General boulder at AWS; elbow sore, but stable level of hurtiness. 40 ish problems including lots of the V5 & 6’s. V7’s seem impossible.
W - 180 weighted core movements. 70 Press-ups.
T - Rest
F - 0430 start, fly to Costa Blanca, drive straight to a very windy Penon and do Costa Blanca the route (6c+ MP).
S - Back to Penon to do New Dimensions (7b). Got on some hideous choss-fest to start with (matched the “black bolts” in the description of ND). Backed off, then started up ND proper, which was first a little chossy, then super greasy. Dogged to top of first pitch (7b) then sacked it off. Recovery tea and sarnies, then Wildside. Up and downed first 2 bolts of La Putita de Millau (8a) getting cold hands before committing and smashing it on-sight
Ken did his first 7c in a day too, so a successful day all round. Epic all you can eat celebratory buffet.
S - Back to Wildside. 7a warm-up. Attempted to OS Mediterrano (8a). Missed a hold out right and fell 10ft short of the chains. Worked a sequence, then did it 2nd go. Tried Oceano extension (8b+) after – nails boulder problem after chains of 7b – then short 8a to top (something similar in difficulty to Raindogs?)
1/2 bottles wine, 4 beers. No chance of a sober week coming up with work party and other social engagements. I’ll just have to eat salad for lunch!