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UKC Fit Club week 404

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 AJM 14 Dec 2014
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=604251
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

I think the final Portland list for 10/11 jan was looking like:

> ## Definite - wild horses couldn't drag me away
AJM
Mrchewy
Hms +1

> ## Probably coming
Kevster
Curious Yellow
Nick R
mattrm
Dandan+some
Just Tintin +1

> ## I'll come if it's sunny

AJM
JimmyKay - awesome day out. Superb!
Kevster - 2 birds with one stone - use your dialled 7s for power endurance laps to help with the enduro issue elsewhere?
biscuit - how was the race?
IainRUK - good result to end the season on?
mbh - good training miles
hms - bad luck on Chulilla. How are the drills going?
The Ex-Engineer - car fixed yet?
williemiller - feeling the improvements
Exile - winter arrived?
Nick Russell - nice job on Chulilla
mrchewy - sounds like your wall grading is all over the shop - need to find some static things to benchmark against I guess...?
maria85 - welcome back!
Dandan82 - 1-5-7 envy! Good to hear the drills are working
Ally Smith - creeping closer to the crag tick goal...!
mattrm - did you get outdoors?
Ian Rock - solid variety of exercise in there...
Creedence - restful week
Humperdink - good race!
 JayK 14 Dec 2014
In reply to AJM:
Second awesome day on gritstone in December. One week after sending West Side Story, Brad Pit and Dick Williams i managed to climb super classic The Joker, 8A... Big big week for me. I guess the climbing and commitment to getting out is starting to pay off. Unlike hitting the pinnacle of sport for me (ticking Cider Soak) I feel like I've only just started going with bouldering. Can't wait to get out next weekend and trying more stuff. So hard peak stuff on the winter list (renegade master, careless torque, full power, western eyes, low rider and sole power) hopefully my ankles will still be intact after trying them...

M - General climbing session, bit of a board session.
T - Short climbing session up to v7 due to feeling relatively tired.
W - fingerboard session.
T - core session. 4 sets, lots of movements.
F - Rest
S - ticked the joker at stanage. Was already celebrating on the full pendulum swing, that jug really is that good. Went for a play on the storm but it was a bit damp. Went for a celebratory tea and chips and beans at outside. Also needed tape as ripped a huge flapper on one of the goes on the joker. Cooled down massively and skin was a bit thin, headed up to burbage north anyway. Managed a Quickfire ascent of the classic blind date.
S - Going for a session down the wall in a bit.
Post edited at 10:45
 Dandan 14 Dec 2014
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM,
Yeah I as well pleased with the 1-5-7, it's as good as I've ever managed so nice to know i'm still reasonably strong.

Pretty good week, just cruising in preparation for the training plan which begins on Monday...

M:
T: Climb; boulder, <120 move circuit x2
W:
T: Climb; boulder, 33 problems V1-V5
F:
S:
S:

It doesn't look like much on paper, but I did climb last Sunday so that's 3 climbing days with a single day rest in between each, the kind of thing I couldn't hope to do previously due to my elbows, but with a bit of self control, moderating the difficulty and a LOT of stretching, it seems possible.
It seems the ability to up the volume of climbing couldn't have come at a better time, Robin's training plan landed on my virtual doorstep on Wednesday and it is pretty serious stuff.
I've chilled out for the last 3 days in order to be fully rested for the start of the training plan, in the next month I am allowed christmas day, boxing day and new years day off!
It may be standard fare for other people but for me the sheer volume of climbing in the conditioning phase of the plan is frightening, 4 climbing sessions of varying intensity each week, 3 antagonist sessions each week and then later on doubling up with fingerboard and cardio on top, it's a LOT of work.
The first session on monday is medium intensity, to ease me into it, so it's only 50 back to back boulder problems up to V6... yikes.

Injury news, just to keep me on my toes now that my finger seems to be pretty happy, i've picked up some kind of minor shoulder impingement in my right shoulder, that's the good shoulder, or at least it used to be. It doen't hurt while climbing but its not getting better on it's own so i've added another raft of theraband work to my already bulging stretching repertoire!

My goal for next week is simply to do every session on the plan, so thats a full 7 sessions between now and next week, wish me luck!

OP AJM 14 Dec 2014
In reply to Dandan:

Be careful Dandan, that sounds like one hell of a step up in intensity!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Awesome stuff. And so much of the season still left!



Mixed week for me. Started well, ended badly.

2 cycle commutes, on the only 2 days I was in work. 2 wall sessions at TCA (plus a social session Monday night which was probably more about talking than climbing). Felt quite strong, although I was tired on Thurs. Managed a 6C+ second go but failed to make any impression on some of the hardest of the V3-5 circuit, which suggests that there's something weird going on with the grading there.

Managed to mangle my hand slipping over on a wet road so currently sporting massive skin loss on the palm/wrist and something a bit f*cked inside the hand too, not sure what yet. Going to keep an eye on that. Missed out on a beautiful day Saturday, gutted. Got Toms plan through, easy week next week due to the hand being screwed, lots of stuff to look over and get my head around though in terms of what I'm doing when.

 Nick Russell 14 Dec 2014
In reply to AJM:
> Nick Russell - nice job on Chulilla

Thanks! It was good to see you on Monday, shame the weather didn't play ball later in the week.

M - Gym, social at TCA (some climbing, mostly on purple roof problems)
T - Redpoint. Attempting to onsight (i.e. lower off after fall, move on to next route) black circuit, 6c+ - 7a+. Fell off all 5 of them, but it was good to get back into the mindset of trying hard on unknown moves rather than hanging on the rope and figuring out the next sequence. I've been doing too much of the latter recently.
W - Rest
T - Fingerboard. Felt much stronger than last Sunday but still not at last year's levels
F - Rest
S - Brean with hms and Emily. After a couple of lead goes on Prisoner of Conscience I have a sequence that will work for the start. Similar to Ally's beta but I can't wrap my petite hands around that `pinch'. Also employing a heel hook or two higher up, as per Kevster's advice.
S - Fingerboard. A bit tired, not a very long or productive session.

I'm feeling good at a reasonable climbing volume at the moment, just got to keep it up. Hopefully Christmas (a week skiing, if there's any snow...) and New Year won't disrupt that too much.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c. Nowhere near
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a "navigation" error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. Made it to 381/416km then dropped out with a dodgy knee. Failed on both counts
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits


Short-term goals
  • Get the knee better
    Seemed to get a bit better in the couple of days after adjusting the saddle on my bike but any improvement has now stalled again. Don't know what to do really.
  • Prisoner of Conscience (7b+) at Brean
    Got a sequence. Unfortunately I may not get on it again now until 2nd week of Jan.
  • Local sport routes 7c and above (or onsights 7a+ and above)
    PoC will set me up for The Guilt Edge, then on to Bullworker or back to Storm Warning...
  • 2-finger (front and middle) repeaters on BM1000 small pockets
    Hung off these a bit today. Large step-up from 3 finger pockets so maybe end of Jan is optimistic given 2 week break Christmas + New Year.
  •  hms 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks for writeup AJM, and good to see you on Monday. Bummer about the hand - seem to be lots of mushy leaves around at the mo so I've treating the roads with care!

    M - cycle commute. TCA social, although as I got there an hour earlier than everyone else I suspect I had rather more of a proper session so was quite tired by the end.
    T - cycle commute.
    W - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening trying new routes with mixed success. Failed to onsight a 6b because a) it wasn't 6b and b) I'm not trusting my new shoes on smeary stuff. Did onsight a black core route (6c+-7a+) but then someone bounced over and merrily informed me it was the easiest one there. Thanks!
    T - work xmas lunch (shudder) then walked home 4 miles in the rain to try to recover from the socialising. I don't ever drink at lunchtime so seeing everyone else get increasing plastered is less than fun.
    F - Bloc trying various comp problems. Still not trusting the shoes. Long session.
    S - Brean with Nick. So bloody close on Chulilla - I got through the entire crux section 3 times and each time fell from the long move above the last clip. I had convinced myself I had to do this with a step-through and pop, but when tired after the crux I couldn't get it to work. Instead I reckon I have to use more of a rock-over approach. Lots and lots of people trying Storm Warning and not a single person did the Chulilla crux the way I do. But there again I do like crimps!
    S - UCR. Lots of new routes so tried everything under 7a. Only caught out by 1 6c where I mis-read and thought I should be heading for the arete where instead I should have undercut a blob (weird!), so that will go easily next try. That route is also going to be good for me as it has a couple of long moves that you really have to throw yourself at. I was trying to do step-throughs and drop-knees on all the easy warm-up & warm-down routes. Still feels stilted but guess it will come.

    Sunday was a fun session as it is my last day of freedom. My training plan leading up to Chulilla (the place) has arrived so as of tomorrow it's buckling down to lots of hard work. Not quite sure how I sneak out onto rock but guess I just do a bit of day shuffling.
     mbh 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    cheers AJM!

    I, er, did much the same again this week. 5 runs, , just over 50 miles, only just 5000ft ascent, so not really enough of that, and not going very fast. Must mix it up a bit more. Still, did two longish off-road runs in the dark, one of them on rough windy, hilly coast path. 18th week in the last 20 that I have managed more than 50 miles.

    M -
    T - 10 miles in the dark, off-road, after work, meeting up with my wife for lift home.
    W -
    T - 7.7 miles road.
    F -11.1 miles hilly (2100 ft) coast path in the dark.
    S - 17.3 miles, road
    S - 5.1 miles around town before day-long family cake fest.
    OP AJM 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to hms:

    Going up and right from the jug by the last clip? Can't get much closer! I think I'm rocking up and right on that one.

    In terms of training and outdoor climbing combinations, I assume given timescales you're heavy on power endurance in the plan - how about finishing days at Brean with intervals on Chepito/Pearl Harbour?
     Exile 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks for doing fit club Andy - yeah, winter is here! (Or at least was yesterday.)

    Aims:

    Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7, not yet

    Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar

    Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
    T: 20min wall (strength training) felt tired so sacked it off
    W: 45min road run (winter endurance)
    T: 1hr 30min wall (strength training) A good session showing progress
    F: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
    S: 7hrs 30min winter climbing - Professor, V 6, Cambridge Crag, Bowfell
    S:Rest

    Weight: 11st 12

    Progress bouldering. Good day winter climbing - stiff crux but felt I could have climbed harder. Lakes grades often feel harder than Scottish ones so I feel confident VI 7 will happen on the right route.
     Jeriqo 14 Dec 2014
    Mon - easy run 60mins
    Tue - rest
    Wed - easy run 40 mins
    Thu - easy run 30 mins
    Fri - climbing/bouldering @ beacon
    Sat - LSR 1:50 on hilly trails
    Sun - bouldering @ brenin

     J B Oughton 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM: sorry I missed last week, busy weekend and just the standard two session week really.

    This week was dead quiet at uni because it was the end of term so quite a few nights out but finally managed three sessions!

    Mon - arrived early, so absolutely freezing in the main bouldering room, so resorted to hiding in the much warmer campus room. Managed 1-3-5 and 1-4-5 consistently on medium rungs, leading both arms, for the first time. Finished by lapping the wall a few times when it got warmer.
    Tue -
    Wed -
    Thurs -
    Fri - New pink circuit, 6a-7a+ but always very tricky. Managed the crux third go but missed out on three others after multiple attempts.
    Sat - rest - homeeeee!
    Sun - MCC session. Started with bouldering to test where my strength was. I can still manage to flash three of the V6-8 circuit, which was good. Routes weren't so good, onsighted a 7a, got a 7b+ second go and got shut down on a 7c. To be fair though I wasn't feeling too well today, hopefully I'll feel better later on.

    So I'm not quite as incredibly unfit as I could be, and all the moves feel dead easy after a sit on the rope, but there's a lot of improvement to be made in the next two and a half weeks!

    Cheers, Jake

     J B Oughton 14 Dec 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay: another amazing day out there Jimmy, great effort.
     Banned User 77 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks, pleasing end to the year.. a very easy week..

    Next year is up in the air right now so just targeting Boston for now.

    m: legs agony
    t: legs very sore on tensing muscles.. lots of pain
    w: 4 mile road run 9 min mile pace, legs very sore + stretch and sauna
    t: 5 mile road and trail run 8:20 pace
    f: 6.8 mile road run 7:30 pace legs feeling better, + stretch and sauna
    s: 5 mile road and trail run 7:40 pace
    s: 9.5 mile trail run NJ Pinelands, 8:20 pace _ sauna

    Felt so much better once I started running.. another steady week, possibly 70 miles max, probably 60-65 then back into it the week after..
    1
     Ally Smith 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Elbow is taking longer than expected to heal up; but some gentle (!) outdoor climbing this weekend seems to have got me back on track.

    BHAG:
    - “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
    - Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
    - Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

    LTG (2015):
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
    >8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
    - Fisheye & Humildes pas Casa, Oliana.
    - Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
    - Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
    - True North, Kilnsey
    >8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)

    MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
    - Stay in gainful employment – 30% chance of redundancy by end of March
    - Headpoint some hard grit
    - Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
    - “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year.
    - Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad elbow)
    - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
    - Cut the lard; 77.3kg and 7.0% BF. New mantra is “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”

    STG (Last/next week)
    - Rest/ice/fix elbow – tick - repeat
    - Gentle finger-boarding – tick - repeat
    - Go to gym for all-round conditioning – fail – try again
    - New Dimensions, 7b, and some Wildside onsighting – fail/tick

    Last week:

    M - Gentle fingerboard (repeaters); 4 sets of 7on/3off 35 degree slopers (+2kg) & 4 sets of 7on/3off pinches (+2kg). Felt like I had to try hard. 280 core movements. Antags and elbow eccentrics.
    T - General boulder at AWS; elbow sore, but stable level of hurtiness. 40 ish problems including lots of the V5 & 6’s. V7’s seem impossible.
    W - 180 weighted core movements. 70 Press-ups.
    T - Rest
    F - 0430 start, fly to Costa Blanca, drive straight to a very windy Penon and do Costa Blanca the route (6c+ MP).
    S - Back to Penon to do New Dimensions (7b). Got on some hideous choss-fest to start with (matched the “black bolts” in the description of ND). Backed off, then started up ND proper, which was first a little chossy, then super greasy. Dogged to top of first pitch (7b) then sacked it off. Recovery tea and sarnies, then Wildside. Up and downed first 2 bolts of La Putita de Millau (8a) getting cold hands before committing and smashing it on-sight Ken did his first 7c in a day too, so a successful day all round. Epic all you can eat celebratory buffet.
    S - Back to Wildside. 7a warm-up. Attempted to OS Mediterrano (8a). Missed a hold out right and fell 10ft short of the chains. Worked a sequence, then did it 2nd go. Tried Oceano extension (8b+) after – nails boulder problem after chains of 7b – then short 8a to top (something similar in difficulty to Raindogs?)
    1/2 bottles wine, 4 beers. No chance of a sober week coming up with work party and other social engagements. I’ll just have to eat salad for lunch!
    OP AJM 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Sounds like a good trip, well done on another 8a onsight. That multipitch 8a goal of yours might need an upgrade if you keep going like this - it'll be too easy by half!
     Spengler 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks AJM.

    Back to it with a new 8 week training phase. I feel my major weakness is power endurance, but I’m going to continue with the aero cap stuff this phase to lay down a solid foundation. The sprinkling in of 2 repeater sessions a week should improve the PE somewhat at the same time.

    I have an issue with working the back 3 open hand, in that my little finger is much shorter (2.5cm), and tends to slip off the hold, as not much of it is in contact!. So I’m thinking it may be best to switch to working in twos. I’ll need to take a fair bit of weight off, but at least I’ll be able to get the pinky involved!

    M - Rest
    T - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 2 sets.
    Half crimp 30mm (+0kg), Front 3 30mm (-1kgs), Back 3 30mm (-6kgs), 35° Sloper (-8kgs).
    W - 45mins core strength work
    T - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 2 sets.
    Half crimp 30mm (+1kg), Front 3 30mm (0kgs), Back 3 30mm (-6kgs), 35° Sloper (-8kgs).
    +1kg half crimp, +1kg front 3.
    F - Wall. 1hr bouldering. 1hr routes 6b+ 6b+ 7a 6c 7a(dog). ARC traversing - 45 mins on the 5+.
    S - Climbing rest day. Went for a walk in the woods. 3 hours or so.
    S - Wall. Routes session. 12 routes up to 6c+ clean. Aero Cap 4x4s - 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+.
     Dandan 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Quick question, I'm supposed to be kicking off the all new, super-duper training plan today, but i've managed to pick up some winter lurgy over the weekend, what are people's views on training when under the weather?
    I think its only a cold, I feel pretty decent but have the usual bunged up nose, sore throat and ever so slightly fuzzy head.
    It might pass without incident but I don't want to smash out a hard training session and then knock myself out for the next week, anybody have any strong opinions on this?
     hms 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Dandan:

    personal feeling is that it's ok to train when a bit under the weather, but a seriously bad idea to really really push things. Physical or mental exhaustion seem to tip me over from feeling a bit ill to being significantly ill.
     JayK 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Joughton: & AJM:

    Cheers guys. First proper boulder 8A. Cannot wait to get out on the weekend. Board session this evening!!

     JayK 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Creedence:

    That's some serious work on your fingers!

    Do you think you really need to isolate your back fingers at the moment?

    I don't think I'll start working them until I'm pushing f8B. Working on getting my stronger fingers stronger in all grip types has helped me get up to f8a (more than comfortable at f7C) and I never get the worry/risk of tweaking a finger.

    Little finger always comes up short in drag so best to chisel. Be wary though, this is an easy way to do your fingers in. As I stated above, I wouldn't bother unless I was a super wad. It's best just to work on technique then risking putting yourself out.

    Not sure if that's helpful or not.
     JayK 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Dandan:

    Easy session down the wall, make sure you get a tea break in and treat yourself to a cake.

    Getting a session in will make you feel like you're not missing out too much. Just add in your notes that you're under the weather. Getting your head right is just as important to getting back on it ASAP.
     Dandan 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    That sounds like a happy medium, I could just dial the session down a bit and see how it goes, I certainly don't feel bad enough to sack it off completely.

    And congrats on the 8A!
     JayK 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Dandan:

    First of many I hope. Get some more in during the season and then try and push on to V12.
     Ally Smith 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Dandan:

    Steer clear of pushing yourself whilst lurgied.

    Gentle exercise is okay; but going big is just likely to turn a sniffle into some full on death snot monster.

    Give it a couple of days to clear, then start over.
     mattrm 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:
    STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

    Weight - 12st 3lbs (2lbs gain)

    M - S - DIY Club!!!

    Kitchen still isn't finished, but then I was at my parents this weekend, so didn't work on it much. I'm going to keep a close eye on the weight and try to start back to some kind of training soon. But the kitchen comes first. I've started building the doors now, I've made the grooves for the center panels and started to mark up the joints. Then it's cutting the joints, glueing and on to the horrible part, the painting. Which is the bit of woodworking I don't like much. I'm then going to try and build some cabinets to go next to the cooker and get the worktops on them. I'm then going to make a fullsize mock up of the kitchen table I want to build. It's all getting there, just slower than I'd hoped.

    JimmyKay - that sounds freaking amazing. It's been perfect grit weather recently. Ought to try and do an afternoon's bouldering at the Roaches soon.

    Dan - Take it easy, I've found that training while ill is a quick way to being really ill, which means no training at all. So I'd go with Ally's suggestion. Stay warm, eat well (but no chocs and the like) and rest.
    Post edited at 13:02
     Spengler 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    It is helpful, thanks.
    I was just under the impression that it's best to work all fingers equally. So I've been tending to do front 3 and back 3, but have run into the short finger issue, but don't really want to chisel them due to injury concerns, as you say. So perhaps, dropping the back 3 entirely for now would be best.
     mrchewy 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Tara Hayes didn't manage one of the new V3s on Friday, a blue V4 either... she's finished on the GB boulder podium in the Seniors this last two years. The moves are easy to spot, it's the F8B finger strength required for the moves that's the issue for most. My new benchmark is 'could I have tried any harder?' and I've hit maximal effort at least once every session, to point of being unable to do much more after, other than mileage.

    Nice work Jimmy on the 8A - AWESOME!

    STG - Get better on grit. Get leading regularly again
    MTG (Next Oct) - Head to Spain for six months.
    LTG - Track of the Cat E5, Jetrunner E4, Font 7A.

    Mon - Boulder, got on 45deg panel. Then TR a few routes. Then lead some stuff all at my limit, then TR a soft 6c and tried another one for the first time. 4hrs.
    Tue - Rest.
    Wed - Pullups. Can't even do one with my hands next to each other on proper jugs (or bar) but can manage two when in BM slots and also the deepest mono pockets. Mate's were laughing, it's just a bit odd. Boulder on 45/30deg. Yoga class 1hr. Then fall practice for over an hour. Took some big falls after leading to the top, lowering over halfway and then climbing as high as I dared before jumping off, on the vertical walls. Lead falls also. Broken after, 5hrs in total.
    Thu - One hour yoga class.
    Fri - Drive to the Peak.
    Sat - Bamford, climbing at 9am. Gargoyle Flake 2nd, icy top-out. Lead some HVS but icy sloper stopped play, so downclimbed (including the 5b crux) stripping gear. Jet Runner a few times - managed the 6a move a couple times, had to find a different sequence to mates at the bottom as I can't reach the break. As the sun was setting, went to try and 2nd it clean but hands were just too cold by then and didn't make the mono sidepull stick. Not much climbing done but massive effort put in.
    Sun - Plantation to meet friends but everything wet. Whilst they played on Green Traverse, we had a gander to find routes for xmas hols. Then drove to The Climbing Station, Loughborough after but full of manflu and thus weak. Did easy boulders, flashed all the V2/3s I tried. Then got on the 45deg circuit board. Managed 20 moves on the 6b+, 13 moves when reversing it which I was happy with. No pump, just powered out. Had a few goes.

    Pullup session broke me to be honest, so frustrating. AJM - you're right, it is weird.

    Failed to fit in Aerocap session on Sunday, just felt so rough from the cold, wheezing like a gud 'un. Happy to get so far on the 45deg 6b+ circuit tho, would have gone if I'd felt better.

    Decided that Jet Runner and Track of the Cat will be LTG - never really had a desire to lead anything that hard but Track has such an awesome sequence of moves on the slab and JR doesn't feel that far away anyway, certainly not when I'm having one of my infrequent good days. Nailed my own beta for it now, just need to get leading on grit lots before then. Aiming high! *for a punter anyway
     Nick Russell 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Dandan:
    > what are people's views on training when under the weather?

    To echo others on here, I find a hard training set is one of the most reliable ways to turn a minor sniffle into a full blown death cold. I'd dial it down a bit
     Dandan 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks everyone, to be honest i'm feeling worse as the day goes on so i'm going to skip todays madness and see how I feel tomorrow.
    Although saying that, the description for tomorrows session includes "do x,y,z until exhausted, then repeat a further two times..." so i'll have to play that one by ear too!
    In reply to AJM:

    Hi Andy, sorry to have missed a week – general low performance due to malingering cough has wrecked fitness and made me grumpy. Two new staff recruited and starting in Jan so hopefully early 2015 brings better work-climbing balance. Will definitely set some goals by next week!

    WBL results (aggregate so months to go yet!)
    Wirksworth: 1st senior female
    Big Rock: 4 =
    Derby: Have given up as was ill for one round and got stuck in traffic for another.

    So two weeks’ worth…
    M: Boulder Milton Keynes WBL round 1
    T- T: rest
    F: Boulder Milton Keynes WBL round 2
    S: Burbage South bouldering. Coughing a lot so practiced footwork and smearing up to V2. The grit feels lovely! Can't wait to get 10 days in over Christmas.
    S: Overdid it the day before so rest

    M: rest
    T: rest
    W: Boulder Milton Keynes WBL
    T: rest
    F: Boulder Milton Keynes WBL. Feeling a bit stronger.
    S: Trad at Birchen to HVS. Stamina awful even on 10-12m easy routes!
    S: Boulder Wirksworth 152 points for round 4.
     J B Oughton 15 Dec 2014
     Ally Smith 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Joughton:
    The black bolts we found initially were 50yds right of the route proper, with a 15' high detached pillar guarding the first bolt. We (sensibly) ran away and looked for something more attainable!

    Your photo shows the line we were on in the end - looks like the black bolts have been replaced with 10mm Fixe bolts, though these are already starting to rust!

    The first ramp feature was the covered in a layer of loose flakes, and most holds had sand on them. The rock quality improved, but the holds got steadily more greasy after this, and at one point i even had to chalk up to pull on a QD as the condensation had gotten so bad!
    Post edited at 18:46
     Humperdink 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to mbh:

    That's great consistency! Mmmmm cake-fest.......mmmmmmm
     Humperdink 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Cheers AJM - even better race this week

    M: Lunchtime 8/9M loop in 55:21 tired, pm - 5M easy in 34:21 felt ok
    Tu: Lunchtime session: 5 x 1Mile with 1:40 recovery. Bread and butter session which was always going to be interesting to see where I am actually at. Reps were: 4:58 (uh-oh gone off too fast), 4:55 (ok then looks like I'm going well), 4:51 (really?), 4:54 and 4:53 (not full out at the end) so really pleased with this. The loop isn't 100% accurate but there will only be a couple of metres in it so happy with that!
    W: pm -6/7M steady in 43:05 then massage - not had one for ages so it was a bit ouch
    Th: pm - 8/9M steady in 54:04 + strides, still sore from massage
    F: pm - 5M easy in 30:31 - floating along
    Sa: am - 3M easy in 21:03 + strides
    Su: am - Telford 10K, very cold but not too windy for this which always gets a really good field. Avoided temptation to get involved in the first mile which is very downhill and wreck my race (which I did last year). Felt comfy going through first mile and was back in about 40-50th. Looked at my watch........ 4:57 - goodness knows what the boys at the front went through in! Settled in and stared to move through the field, 2M in 10:00, slowed at bit to go through 5K in ~15:38 but still going ok, moved up a bit more, 4M in 20:11 and then it was time to just get my head down and suffer! got a couple of people in the last mile and finished well to........ get a PB: 31:23 for 20th pace (told you it was a good field)! Thought on Tuesdays session I'd go a bit quicker but a PB is a PB!! long cool down, 13M total

    62M for the week and a PB which means I've run a PB at every distance this year! Didn't get the "A" goal of sub 31 so that's going to have to wait until 2015 but certainly feel on the right day in the right race it could be there.
     williemiller 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Mixed bag this week. Still no running and weight is creeping up as a result but still feel like my climbing is improving.

    Mon –yoga
    Tue – bouldering at Indy.
    Wed – Beacon lead session, short one but managed four clean 6bs having only ever managed one before
    Thu – Nothing
    Fri –Bouldering at Indy. Felt weak and knackered and achieved nothing new
    Sat – A nice long day out on the snowy Glyders
    Sun – Nothing

    STG (next week)
    Find a climbing partner
    3 climbing sessions a week
    2 runs without cutting short

    MTG (by spring)
    Get to 75kg
    6b sport onsight
    10 HVS, 5 E1, 2 E2
    Run up Snowdon
     Ian Rock 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Cheers, AJM!

    M - Cycle Commute. Swimming - 500m front crawl, 300 breast stroke, 200 various. 1k total.
    T - Cycle commute. Running - 6.3km, keeping heart rate under 80% of max hr. Easy pace, weather was a tad blowy
    W - Cycle commute. Routes down Pinnacle - various different type of climbs. Spent a while trying / falling / hanging / retrying on a 6a. Moves weren't that hard in isolation, just need to figure out a quick and efficient way of climbing it in one so that my arms don't feel pumped in the final third.
    T - Cycle commute - put in a fast time on way in. Running - 6.2km 80% max hr.
    F - Cycle commute. Routes - spent the time chatting about old haunts in London, trying on shoes, oh and a various bits of climbing. Enjoyable evening.
    S - Rest day. Work Crimbo dinner. No booze!
    S - Bouldering room first thing whilst daughter climbed. Only managed 30 mins - urgh, need new fingers. At least it will teach me to improve my footwork. Unsure now if I'm just plain crap or really, really crap! Running - 6.7km @80%HR.

    Immediate Goals.
    One stone of weight loss. Gonna wait till after Christmas and then focus all my efforts on this over training performance. Planning to use ideas and plans from 'Racing Weight' series of books if anyone's interested, I thoroughly recommend and it should fit in with any climbing related training.

    Improve footwork and stamina. Think this is probably going to come from simply climbing lots rather than anything specific.

    Winter. Try an persuade some mates to dig their ice axes out for a bit of fun!
     mbh 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Humperdink:

    Cheers! Doesn't match your PBtastic week, mind. Great stuff!

    The cake feast included German biscuits, French Apple Tart (I made this!) , Swedish yeast chelsea bun type things, carrot cake, tiramisu cake, brownies, assorted muffins with fancy icing, bakhlava, panettone, fudge and numerous Great Aunts who cooed over it all and got very jolly as I refilled their glasses.

    Probably the most cake there has ever been in a Fit Club post. I won't do it again.
     J B Oughton 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith: Ah okay that'll explain why we couldn't find an alternative! But yes it was all quite sandy, fortunately for us at least it was just sandy and not sand + condensation = paste! You should get back to it if you ever find the time and better conditions though, the route is incredible beyond that disappointment of a pitch.
     maria85 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Not the best week ever, but an improvement on sitting on the sofa!

    M: Nothing - gave blood straight after work so exercise after wasn't really an option.
    T: Came down with cold. Managed yoga class though.
    W: Cold
    T: Nothing
    F: 10km run, Scout Scar
    S: Nothing
    S: Nasty hangover from xmas do, managed a short walk...
     JayK 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to Humperdink:
    20th with a 30:23?! Jeez. What was the winning time? Think jack gray ran that race in 30:03 last year. You must be getting excited to break that sub 30 barrier
    Post edited at 22:01
    In reply to AJM:
    A good week with 4 sessions. Another bloc ticked Monday and then a good session on Sat repeating it and a few of the other harder problems I've done. Ripped a flapper on left index finger on Monday's send which has been irratating rather than a real inconvenience.
    Car is back on the road and I am £200 lighter as of this afternoon...

    STG. Find partners for routes.
    - I am getting to know a few of the regular boulderers but those who lead seem to have established climbing partners...
    MTG. Train 4 times per week.
    - Done, but next week may be more of a challenge thanks to a Xmas party induced rest day today!
    LTG. tbc

    M - boulder
    T - boulder
    W - rest
    T - boulder
    F - nil (worked late)
    S - boulder
    S - work Xmas party
     Kevster 15 Dec 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks Andy - sound advice, but hard to follow. Maybe I should finally get the finger board up over xmas.

    Excellent work by those pulling their weight this week. Jimmy - I guess you best start looking for that E8!

    Ally did you costa blanca just for the weekend? I'd be interested to hear how that worked time wise if so.

    My weak: Poor, did squatt, nada, zip and nuffing. Oh and drunk, several times. It is the season!

    This week: Hope to climb twice, might be at the Reach Sunday.

    Thanks! Kev.
     Ally Smith 16 Dec 2014
    In reply to Kevster:

    Yep - we did Costa Blanca on the Penon.

    Rocked up at about 12 noon; straight from the airport; we had some nibbles with us and filled water bottle from the fountain on the walk in, so only had to sort the gear (single rope, 16 draws and a couple of slings) and got on it.

    Started about 1230 (first pitch is quite thin in places, could easily be 6b+/c), topped out just after 4pm (the "6c+" pitch is steady jug pulling, to a rest, followed by a thin move).

    We could easily have done it faster - we weren't rushing, and the wind made comms a bit awkward. The walk off the back was very greasy (a sign of the condensation we'd experience the next day as the back was out of the wind)
     Humperdink 16 Dec 2014
    In reply to mbh:

    Thanks, I reckon you can do it again after the BGR !

     Humperdink 16 Dec 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:
    Cheers, although you've been more than kind and taken a minute off my time! - if only I had run 30:23!! Jack Gray did it again this year although not sure what his time was. Winning time around 29:55ish I think but still miles off Chris Davies course record which is something like 28:50ish!! To be honest I still think I've got no chance of breaking 30 but its no reason not to see how close I can get.....
    Post edited at 18:42
     Kevster 16 Dec 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks Ally. Though I also know you did fiesta and zulu in one day, so I suspect your could have done it faster is my fast as they took me a few hours on consecutive days and by the end of Zulu wasn't really capable of many more pitches.
    However, the idea of a weekend away in europe works for me, especially as I am almost walking distance from stansted airport. Spain seems the obvious choice of venue.

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