UKC

I'm interested to hear other UKC'ers warm up routines when they train at home on their board / woody. I have a beastmaker sat at home, but struggle to warm up properly outside of doing a few body weight exercises (pull up / press ups, few L hangs), and I want to avoid the dreaded *snap* of overtraining.

The internet is full of super useful advice like "warm up thouroughly" and "spend an hour doing finger wiggles" before even going near a finger board.

In reply to Pewtle:

It won't be much help but the same day I wrote the warming up chapter for Trad Climbing + I later went down to the Climbing Works, got straight on a long, hard (for me) problem, got completely boxed and never recovered so had a terrible session from that point onwards.

It's one thing knowing the theory and a completely different thing to put it into practice.

In reply to Pewtle:

When I use Metolius Rock Rings at home, not the same as a board, but similar warm up principle, I will do some arm pumping into the air, press ups, tricep dips on a chair, running on the spot, slight pull ups, squeeze a tennis ball etc. Basically anything to get the blood pumping into the relevant muscles and to warm everything up. I still find it takes a while to start to feel as though everything is working properly once I start a routine.

I would never use anything less than second joint until I was really warmed up.

Rich.

In reply to Richard White:

I used (been a long time!) the largest holds or a pull up bar, with my feet on a chair in front of me. Swap hands every few seconds and swing the other arm back. Do it for a few minutes. It uses the back and arms, and gets you a bit pumped, but with a low intensity.

In reply to Pewtle:

Star jumps, mountain climbers (google if you don't know it), press ups, shoulder press ups (press up but bent at the waist forming a pyramid, yes you will look stupid), superman, side planks, finger flicks (jazz hands), fingertip reaches, hanging leg raises, dynamic leg stretches, then I might think about pulling onto a hold...

I then do six or seven different static stretches when warming down after climbing.

I'm still getting injured alarmingly regularly, nothing major but enough to slow my progress. I refuse to beleive it is age (i'm only 32) and I do think all of the warming up/down helps, but being rewarded with a few periods of injury-free climbing would be nice for a change...

In reply to Daniel Heath:

That sounds a good one, I'll try that.

Cheers.

In reply to Richard White:

You really need a pulse-raiser before doing that though, get the blood moving before anything else