In reply to ClimbingTrotter:
1) I have recently come across Brian Bonner's book 'Matterhorn Vision' and find some of the photos very useful for planning. One marks the Hornli Route with named features such as The Shoulder, Oberer Roter Turm (Upper Red Tower) etc. Another is a well-focused chopper's view of the Lower Moseley Slab with groups of climbers on it. There are other good ones.
2) There is a Youtube record of solo successful summit bid wearing 'trail shoes'. The guy is the founder of a UK mountain guiding outfit. With so much scrambling, now I question the wisdom of wearing B3 or B2 boots in certain snow conditions.
3) A Swiss heli rescue operation Youtube suggests it is unwise to overload (in backpack) in the summit bid. So shouldn't the packing list be a short one?
4) Sorry to say that your piece in the blog feels over-simplified but what do I know as I have never lay my eyes on that slag heap yet!!