UKC

I'm planning my first proper alpine mountaineering holiday (summer 2015) and I'm looking for any suggestions of good mountains to try. The sum of my alpine experience so far is the Breithorn from the Klein Matterhorn.

I'm not looking for anything beyond PD/PD+ or that is too exposed or involves too much rock climbing. Examples I've been looking at are mountains like Castor (from Italy) and the Nadelhorn; stuff like that.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Would also need some ideas for acclimatization so maybe some lower objectives too.

I've very flexible with destination as will be driving.

Thanks for any ideas!!

In reply to phja:
search the forums there is lots of chat.

personally ecrin or arolla

In reply to phja:

The Saas area has a lot of suitable Options for you. Weissmies, Lagginhorn, Aphubel, Allalinhorn and the Nadelhorn that you mention. some of these have more than one PDish route so you can have a good look in the guidebook and see what you like the look of.

in recent years the valley have also offered free use of lifts for those staying in the valley.

There is always the opportunity to have a look at some of the bigger stuff in the Matteral valley as you will have a car

In reply to phja:

I agree with alastair19 -- either Ecrin (Ailefroide's a wonderful place to base yourself) or Arolla.

Both places have lots of choices at lots of different levels of difficulty / altitude

In reply to kylo-342:


3rded, Ailfroide is wonderful.

In reply to phja:

+1 for Saas valley. Great variety of lower grade stuff to go at and free uplift.

In reply to jonnie3430:

Might as well make that 4 then ! The Pelvoux traverse is a fantastic outing for any aspiring alpinist !

In reply to phja:

Definitely the Saas Fee area. Climbed here with my daughter, also soloed some of the peaks like the Allalinhorn - satisfying summits with few technical challenges.

In reply to phja:

have you also considered the Pyrennees? There are some good PD routes, less people and they tend to feel a bit less serious than the alps. also the weather seems to be a bit more settled than the alps just recently. or even the Pyrennees first for acclimatization and experience and then go to the alps. Thats what we did last year and it seemed to be a good idea. We did pic aneto and then did Gran Paradiso which is excellent for a first alpine peak. Then we went to Liechtenstein and did Grauspitze, which was by far the scariest of the three! Good luck whatever you decide

In reply to phja:
I'm in the Saas Fee recommending camp.

Jeggihorn (3000m peak, perhaps by the Via Ferratta)
Mitaghorn (3000m peak, perhaps by the Via Ferratta)
Allalinhorn (4000m peak, from lift like the Breithorn)
Lagginhorn (4000m peak, from Wiesmies hut)
Wiesmies (4000m peak, from and back to Amagelar hut)

All the above have either none or only minimal crevasse danger.

You mension the Nadelhorn. That's a bit tougher for the following reasons...
1) It's quite high at over 4,300m and needs really good accimatisation.
2) It has a hellishly long steep hut walk-in (which some may enjoy).
3) Some sections of the route can be quite exposed and scary. I remember once in descent struggling to traverse a section of steep softening snow above an unimaginable slide/drop.
4) The route over the glacier runs parallel to the cravases meaning an error could get very messy.

That all said, I'm an alpine bumbly and I've managed it twice without killing myself.

In reply to JLS:

There is also the Strahlhorn which I did with my teenage daughter, just a bit of a slog.

In reply to altirando:
Indeed, my attempt at that one ended just above the col in high winds. I was hoping to beat strong wind forecast for later that day. After pitching 50m up the start of the final ridge on my hands and knees I figured it prudent to turn around and head back just incase these weren't "yet" the strong winds forecast! I always wondered how the guided party of 30 school kids we pasted on the glacier (as we returned) got on...

In reply to phja:

Yeah the Nadelhorn is definitely a step up PD wise. The top summit tower when I did it was full on iced up and quite tricky mixed climbing over an enormous drop.

The walk in to the Mischabel hut is also bloody strenuous, not that long just incredibly uphill. For ever. The ridge part of the Nadelhorn is amazing however.

In reply to JLS:

I'd agree saas valley is great and in the summer if you stay in the valley for 2 or more nights you'll get a free lift pass meaning once acclimatised you can do some of the 4000m peaks in a day i.e. the other side of the weissmeiss which is v.easy

In reply to phja:

Good suggestions from all of the above. I would also suggest, as you say you are mobile ( going by car ), don't get too hooked on one area. Look at the existing mountain conditions and the forecasts and go for the area that is looking best.
Your profile suggests you are leading VS with the occasional E1. I recommend doing some long multipitch / mountain / linking routes days in the UK to regain your previous confidence and get used to moving smoothly and efficiently. Try to get some more winter stuff in this season too. Don't feel you have to stick to PD routes. Choose a base or hut that has a variety of options. You could study a nearby short but harder route ( for example AD ) whilst on an easier route and decide to go for it the next day if all goes well. Many huts have multipitch rock routes nearby so a morning walk in to the hut can be followed by a short climb before the next days longer route.
So when choosing your options try to follow the good conditions, weather and somewhere that offers a variety of routes.

In reply to phja:

Buy the Switz Plaisir Alpin book and take your pick if you are thinking of Switzerland.

I'd also vote for Ailfroide, especially if you like cragging...
and 300 days of sunshine

Thanks for all the replies everyone, some great suggestions in there!!

Agree with the idea of following the conditions/weather. Hadn't really considered rock climbing out there...maybe I can rediscover my past confidence

Cheers