This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hello.
A lot of people on this forum ask a question 'what have you done on grit?' Or similar 'what has he/she done on grit?'....
From this I assume that grit is one if not the hardest mediums/rock types to master. Say if a climber managed to head point The End of The Affair, Meshuga along with high balling The Angels Share and The New Statesmen would that be a great achievement and a big deal for him/her and climbing in general?
Sav
Post edited at 19:23
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I think a lot of times its said as a joke. What with the stereotypical climber only being interested in Grit.
I think a lot of times its said as a joke. What with the stereotypical climber only being interested in Grit.
2
In reply to mrchewy:
Or even climbing on any rock.
> Climbing hard on any rock is a big deal surely?
Or even climbing on any rock.
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Probably a big deal for them, unlikely to be for climbing in general.
People like to think of grit as weird and knacky, that's all.
Probably a big deal for them, unlikely to be for climbing in general.
People like to think of grit as weird and knacky, that's all.
1
In reply to Stevie989:
Hi Stevie.
Hum....
I am interested in grit to start my climbing career but I would like to climb on other rocks as well.
I think people love grit for many reasons including it being a solid rock with good friction and it is steeped in history.
On a different thread someone asked me 'What have Facebook and colds done on grit?' and someone replied - I think sarcastically/jokingly - why people removed as a Facebook friend because I had not climbed E7 on grit and put it on Facebook.
Sav
Hi Stevie.
Hum....
I am interested in grit to start my climbing career but I would like to climb on other rocks as well.
I think people love grit for many reasons including it being a solid rock with good friction and it is steeped in history.
On a different thread someone asked me 'What have Facebook and colds done on grit?' and someone replied - I think sarcastically/jokingly - why people removed as a Facebook friend because I had not climbed E7 on grit and put it on Facebook.
Sav
Post edited at 19:51
In reply to AJM:
Cool as beanz.
I am very keen to climb on it especially now that I am reading Peak Rock.
Sav
Cool as beanz.
I am very keen to climb on it especially now that I am reading Peak Rock.
Sav
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Re your question
It is a very boring and unfunny reply some people post on various threads.
Its not a big deal in the whole scheme of things.more a personal thing.
Bit like passing your driving test.
Re your question
It is a very boring and unfunny reply some people post on various threads.
Its not a big deal in the whole scheme of things.more a personal thing.
Bit like passing your driving test.
2
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
There's 2 questions there. One is is it a big personal achievement, which is almost certainly a Yes for the routes you mention for just about anybody, and the same can be said for many other venues and types of climbing of course, whatever the grade.
Is it a big deal for climbing in general? For nearly all repeats of routes, the answer is probably No. But then while I could be wrong I thought New Statesman had only seen headpoint ascents, so that would be a big deal.
There's 2 questions there. One is is it a big personal achievement, which is almost certainly a Yes for the routes you mention for just about anybody, and the same can be said for many other venues and types of climbing of course, whatever the grade.
Is it a big deal for climbing in general? For nearly all repeats of routes, the answer is probably No. But then while I could be wrong I thought New Statesman had only seen headpoint ascents, so that would be a big deal.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Grit is certainly NOT the hardest kind of stone to master. There are many other smoother types of stone with less friction.
But try to get this in perspective Sav. An easy climb in grit is never going to be as hard as an extreme in something else, say granite - is it?
And don't worry about what other people think is a big deal.
For your big deal, just getting onto real rock may be your real achievement. Go for it!
Grit is certainly NOT the hardest kind of stone to master. There are many other smoother types of stone with less friction.
But try to get this in perspective Sav. An easy climb in grit is never going to be as hard as an extreme in something else, say granite - is it?
And don't worry about what other people think is a big deal.
For your big deal, just getting onto real rock may be your real achievement. Go for it!
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Really it's a joke. Grit is the most climbed rock in the UK and some think gets rather too much focus. Hence 'what has x ever done on grit' for those climbing hard stuff elsewhere, or even funnier what has y done on grit (when they have hard ascents on grit)
Really it's a joke. Grit is the most climbed rock in the UK and some think gets rather too much focus. Hence 'what has x ever done on grit' for those climbing hard stuff elsewhere, or even funnier what has y done on grit (when they have hard ascents on grit)
1
In reply to Dave Perry:
Hi Dave.
I agree with you.....
As far as I know Slate is a very smooth rock.
Nope it will not Dave.
I've got some trips in the making!
Sav
Hi Dave.
I agree with you.....
As far as I know Slate is a very smooth rock.
Nope it will not Dave.
I've got some trips in the making!
Sav
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
When people go on about how hard grit is, I would say slate is just as hard to master. After having done a few E1's on slate, they are insanely technical, especially compared to say limestone
When people go on about how hard grit is, I would say slate is just as hard to master. After having done a few E1's on slate, they are insanely technical, especially compared to say limestone
1
In reply to jsmcfarland:
I've not done much slate, but I get the impression that a larger proportion of slate routes are in a similar style to each other, i.e. a slab with increasingly small hand and footholds as the grade increases. Grit on average seems to require a larger number of techniques.
> When people go on about how hard grit is, I would say slate is just as hard to master
I've not done much slate, but I get the impression that a larger proportion of slate routes are in a similar style to each other, i.e. a slab with increasingly small hand and footholds as the grade increases. Grit on average seems to require a larger number of techniques.
1
In reply to jsmcfarland:
I know there is a lot palming and smearing on slate. I think it is a very crimp y rock. I've heard that slate trad routes are bold/run out.
I know there is a lot palming and smearing on slate. I think it is a very crimp y rock. I've heard that slate trad routes are bold/run out.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
I have not climbed on either but I have heard that slate is very crimp y and smooth.
I have not climbed on either but I have heard that slate is very crimp y and smooth.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Only done about 5 routes, all sport, 4 were slabs with small hand and footholds, so mostly crimpy with rock-overs. Good fun. One was called Rock Yoga I think, F7a. Pretty desperate, as you'd expect a F7a slab to be. Not helped by being short and unable to even reach the tiny crimp on the crux. Felt like "The Dawes" when I finally stuck it.
Tried to top-rope Gin Palace, F7c I think. Nothing crimp on, just a blank groove, when you finally manage to wrestle your body into it. Not exactly fun, but interesting to try. Woke up in my tent that night and my right shoulder wouldn't move.
> slate is very crimp y and smooth.
Only done about 5 routes, all sport, 4 were slabs with small hand and footholds, so mostly crimpy with rock-overs. Good fun. One was called Rock Yoga I think, F7a. Pretty desperate, as you'd expect a F7a slab to be. Not helped by being short and unable to even reach the tiny crimp on the crux. Felt like "The Dawes" when I finally stuck it.
Tried to top-rope Gin Palace, F7c I think. Nothing crimp on, just a blank groove, when you finally manage to wrestle your body into it. Not exactly fun, but interesting to try. Woke up in my tent that night and my right shoulder wouldn't move.
1
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
The slate slabs look like a lot of fun!....
I've seen Hazel Find lay climb an E 6 route on slate Rainbow of Recalcitrance - it looked like a total crimp fest.
Not very keen on Gin Palace though. I saw a clip of J D on YouTube and it looked horrible but interesting - it puts your body in a weird position.
Is it a bridging, palming, smearing and chimney ing affair?
Poor you! Ouch!
The slate slabs look like a lot of fun!....
I've seen Hazel Find lay climb an E 6 route on slate Rainbow of Recalcitrance - it looked like a total crimp fest.
Not very keen on Gin Palace though. I saw a clip of J D on YouTube and it looked horrible but interesting - it puts your body in a weird position.
Is it a bridging, palming, smearing and chimney ing affair?
Poor you! Ouch!
Post edited at 10:57
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Non-uk viewpoint:
Around here we climb sandstone, granite and limestone for the most part. Maybe some of the sandstone would get labeled grit, who knows.
The whole what have you done in grit seems a British meme. I've never got the impression the rest of the world especially cares about grit.
Non-uk viewpoint:
Around here we climb sandstone, granite and limestone for the most part. Maybe some of the sandstone would get labeled grit, who knows.
The whole what have you done in grit seems a British meme. I've never got the impression the rest of the world especially cares about grit.
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I believe so, but I didn't get very far.
> Is it a bridging, palming, smearing and chimney ing affair?
I believe so, but I didn't get very far.
1
In reply to needvert:
In the US and Europe, I've spoken to quite a few climbers who seem to be aware of the grit and it's reputation, and I've met quite a few who have seen Hard Grit. Team America were inspired to come over and make a film about it.
I remember talking to some German climbers in La Palud. They were confused as to why I was getting scared climbing in the gorge when back home I climb on 'The Grit'!
> I've never got the impression the rest of the world especially cares about grit
In the US and Europe, I've spoken to quite a few climbers who seem to be aware of the grit and it's reputation, and I've met quite a few who have seen Hard Grit. Team America were inspired to come over and make a film about it.
I remember talking to some German climbers in La Palud. They were confused as to why I was getting scared climbing in the gorge when back home I climb on 'The Grit'!
1
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
I don't think I would either.
As far as I can remember J D was struggling with it quite a lot and he was using those techniques.
I don't think I would either.
As far as I can remember J D was struggling with it quite a lot and he was using those techniques.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Hum interesting.....
I know that Alex Honnold and Adam Ondra have climbed it - Honnold has on sighted Gaia.
Michelle Caminett i has done climbed it aswell - she high balled The Angels Share, climbed Braille Trail (not sure in what style) and lead but using bouldering mats The New Statesman.
Hum interesting.....
I know that Alex Honnold and Adam Ondra have climbed it - Honnold has on sighted Gaia.
Michelle Caminett i has done climbed it aswell - she high balled The Angels Share, climbed Braille Trail (not sure in what style) and lead but using bouldering mats The New Statesman.
Post edited at 12:54
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
err nope. It's Michele
http://www.wildcountry.com/community/sponsored-climbers/european-athletes/m...
> Yea p.
> Michelle is a woman!
err nope. It's Michele
http://www.wildcountry.com/community/sponsored-climbers/european-athletes/m...
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Pretty much it. The only thing that's particularly 'insane' about slate is how soft the grades are (which probably explains about 90% of its devotees too).
> I've not done much slate, but I get the impression that a larger proportion of slate routes are in a similar style to each other, i.e. a slab with increasingly small hand and footholds as the grade increases.
Pretty much it. The only thing that's particularly 'insane' about slate is how soft the grades are (which probably explains about 90% of its devotees too).
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Err no, he's a he.
Stop worrying about grades, climbers, who's done what and all the other bo**ocks you're worrying about.
Just get out there and worry about your own climbing.
Err no, he's a he.
Stop worrying about grades, climbers, who's done what and all the other bo**ocks you're worrying about.
Just get out there and worry about your own climbing.
1
In reply to deacondeacon:
What worries me is that beanz are not cool at all. I like Heinz baked beans, but cannot imagine anything less cool than them.
Edit, Mountain Spirit, I'm not talking about you at all, or your catchphrase. I'm just talking about beanz (of which I estimate I've eaten about 10,000 in my life).
What worries me is that beanz are not cool at all. I like Heinz baked beans, but cannot imagine anything less cool than them.
Edit, Mountain Spirit, I'm not talking about you at all, or your catchphrase. I'm just talking about beanz (of which I estimate I've eaten about 10,000 in my life).
Post edited at 15:02
In reply to abseil:
>"I'm just talking about beanz (of which I estimate I've eaten about 10,000 in my life)."
Unless you took an hour to eat each bean, that suggests you haven't yet spent enough time eating beans to be considered to have mastered the activity. That bein' the case I'm gonna stick with Mountain Spirit's accretion that beans are cool.
>"I'm just talking about beanz (of which I estimate I've eaten about 10,000 in my life)."
Unless you took an hour to eat each bean, that suggests you haven't yet spent enough time eating beans to be considered to have mastered the activity. That bein' the case I'm gonna stick with Mountain Spirit's accretion that beans are cool.
Post edited at 15:20
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Climbing at any grade on any rock is a big deal and a great achievement.
Climbing indoors isn't.
Climbing at any grade on any rock is a big deal and a great achievement.
Climbing indoors isn't.
In reply to JLS:
Dear JLS, thank you, but may I respectfully point out a possible flaw in your logic? I can suggest beanz aren't cool even without mastering the activity.
However I am in a staggering feat of graciousness prepared to after all acknowledge that beanz might possibly in some circumstances be a little bit cool. But I will need some persuasive argument and evidence. Thank you.
> Unless you took an hour to eat each bean, that suggests you haven't yet spent enough time eating beans to be considered to have mastered the activity. That bein' the case I'm gonna stick with Mountain Spirit's accretion that beans are cool.
Dear JLS, thank you, but may I respectfully point out a possible flaw in your logic? I can suggest beanz aren't cool even without mastering the activity.
However I am in a staggering feat of graciousness prepared to after all acknowledge that beanz might possibly in some circumstances be a little bit cool. But I will need some persuasive argument and evidence. Thank you.
In reply to deacondeacon:
No problems.
Will go climbing soon.
I did not mention the g word.
No problems.
Will go climbing soon.
I did not mention the g word.
Post edited at 15:41
In reply to Fatclimber:
Beans flambé - pour a bottle of warmed brandy over 4 tins of beans in a pan followed by a lit match - great for winter camping*
*Health warning, adults only, outdoor use only.
> Chilly beans?
Beans flambé - pour a bottle of warmed brandy over 4 tins of beans in a pan followed by a lit match - great for winter camping*
*Health warning, adults only, outdoor use only.
In reply to abseil:
>"I can suggest beanz aren't cool even without mastering the activity."
"abseil" that's a German name isn't it? My granddad didn't fight in WWII just so you sauerkraut munchers can come over here expressing your ill-informed OPINIONS.
>"I can suggest beanz aren't cool even without mastering the activity."
"abseil" that's a German name isn't it? My granddad didn't fight in WWII just so you sauerkraut munchers can come over here expressing your ill-informed OPINIONS.
In reply to deacondeacon:
No worried about climbers, who's done what etc.
I was asking just about doing well on grit in general.
The only thing I am worried about my own climbing is that I might not enjoy it because I night find it very difficult.
Sav
No worried about climbers, who's done what etc.
I was asking just about doing well on grit in general.
The only thing I am worried about my own climbing is that I might not enjoy it because I night find it very difficult.
Sav
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
You will find it difficult, no doubt about that
You struggle to get up V0's indoors, but the struggle is half the fun so don't give up too easily
You will find it difficult, no doubt about that
You struggle to get up V0's indoors, but the struggle is half the fun so don't give up too easily
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
It's supposed to be difficult. You'll only find out how difficult by getting out and doing it.
It's supposed to be difficult. You'll only find out how difficult by getting out and doing it.
1
In reply to deacondeacon:
> Stop worrying about grades, climbers, who's done what and all the other bo**ocks you're worrying about.
>> Including headpoints, redpoints and similar pointless descriptions.> Just get out there and worry about your own climbing.
>> Don't even worry about it, just enjoy it.In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Well you did still find them a problem, as you're still not finishing them yet.
Not that it matters.
> I find V 0 s not a problem now thanks to flagging.
Well you did still find them a problem, as you're still not finishing them yet.
Not that it matters.
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
just be prepared to not get disheartened when you get your pants pulled down.outdoors is different.
> I find V 0 s not a problem now thanks to flagging.
> No problems.
just be prepared to not get disheartened when you get your pants pulled down.outdoors is different.
1
In reply to deacondeacon:
I think it is the fear of falling down that stops me getting to the top.
It doesn't matter as outdoors is a completely different kettle of fish.
I think it is the fear of falling down that stops me getting to the top.
It doesn't matter as outdoors is a completely different kettle of fish.
Post edited at 17:23
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I'd rather fall inside bouldering than outdoors. The matts are bigger and comfier to fall on.
I'd rather fall inside bouldering than outdoors. The matts are bigger and comfier to fall on.
1
In reply to goose299:
I agree with you....
Although a one of the bigger matts for outdoor use look comfy to fall on.
I agree with you....
Although a one of the bigger matts for outdoor use look comfy to fall on.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Climbing is fine. Grit is fine. Other rock is fine. Different styles of climbing are fine. High grades are fine. Low grades are fine.
Most things are fine. Remember that there are other things to do when you're not climbing.
Life is amazing. Stop wasting your time on the internet and go and live it.
Climbing is fine. Grit is fine. Other rock is fine. Different styles of climbing are fine. High grades are fine. Low grades are fine.
Most things are fine. Remember that there are other things to do when you're not climbing.
Life is amazing. Stop wasting your time on the internet and go and live it.
1
In reply to Stevie989:
but personally i love climbing grit but most of the year i climb on sandstone and other types of rock. does that make me a stereotypical climber?
but personally i love climbing grit but most of the year i climb on sandstone and other types of rock. does that make me a stereotypical climber?
In reply to MischaHY:
Stop wasting your time on the internet and go and live it.
He's doing a pretty good job of getting other people to waste their time on the Internet...
Stop wasting your time on the internet and go and live it.
He's doing a pretty good job of getting other people to waste their time on the Internet...
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
You're in for a bit of a shock if you reckon those V0's are going to feel easier and safer once you get outside.
My advice (which I've probably repeated to you 20-30 times) is to just get to some rock with someone and see how you get on. Top-rope or second some mods or diffs and if you find them ok then try some other routes.
If I'm honest I reckon you'll be able to get up the mods but struggle with the diffs. There's nothing wrong with that, you'll have something to work on and you're not setting yourself up for a fall.
ill hopefully see you at the weekend
You're in for a bit of a shock if you reckon those V0's are going to feel easier and safer once you get outside.
My advice (which I've probably repeated to you 20-30 times) is to just get to some rock with someone and see how you get on. Top-rope or second some mods or diffs and if you find them ok then try some other routes.
If I'm honest I reckon you'll be able to get up the mods but struggle with the diffs. There's nothing wrong with that, you'll have something to work on and you're not setting yourself up for a fall.
ill hopefully see you at the weekend
1
In reply to Pagan:
Weird comment, would be interesting to know 'what have you done on slate' to base your comment on. Towards the upper end of the grade spectrum, slate moves become 'insanely' technical and difficult and not soft at all, admittedly some of the lower and mid grade slate routes are probably soft often due to the moves being easy to read and not at all powerful.
> Pretty much it. The only thing that's particularly 'insane' about slate is how soft the grades are (which probably explains about 90% of its devotees too).
Weird comment, would be interesting to know 'what have you done on slate' to base your comment on. Towards the upper end of the grade spectrum, slate moves become 'insanely' technical and difficult and not soft at all, admittedly some of the lower and mid grade slate routes are probably soft often due to the moves being easy to read and not at all powerful.
In reply to Sl@te Head:
Fair comment; I spent a while climbing a lot on slate a few years ago (2007/8ish) and climbed a lot of the obvious classics up to E4 or thereabouts. I'm well aware that the harder routes can be savagely technical but nothing I ever did really fitted that description and my comment was mostly directed at the idea that slate E1s were 'insanely technical' which is just rubbish, frankly - certainly when compared to grit at the same grade.
Fair comment; I spent a while climbing a lot on slate a few years ago (2007/8ish) and climbed a lot of the obvious classics up to E4 or thereabouts. I'm well aware that the harder routes can be savagely technical but nothing I ever did really fitted that description and my comment was mostly directed at the idea that slate E1s were 'insanely technical' which is just rubbish, frankly - certainly when compared to grit at the same grade.
In reply to Pagan:
I'd love to see how Adam Ondra would get on with Caff's 9a ' The Meltdown' in Twll Mawr. I have no idea whether he'd cruise it or struggle, would be great to see though... Ondra 'versus' a slate slab.....
I'd love to see how Adam Ondra would get on with Caff's 9a ' The Meltdown' in Twll Mawr. I have no idea whether he'd cruise it or struggle, would be great to see though... Ondra 'versus' a slate slab.....
1
In reply to Pagan and ian Ll-J:
I've only done few a routes on slate, up to E2 I think, and for me it's as near to indoor climbing as you can get on rock
- completely atechnical. There's either a hold or there isn't, and no friction to make use of. I'm sure it's a completely different ballgame in the higher grades where you have to start using the stuff that on an E2 may as well be painted plywood.
It's funny though how people interpret the term: lots of people would describe anything with small holds as "technical" (even if you can't even choose which holds to use) but a steep crack as "thuggy" and meaning the opposite. But a steep crack that's an awkward width requires a huge amount of technique - brute strength will get you nowhere!
I've only done few a routes on slate, up to E2 I think, and for me it's as near to indoor climbing as you can get on rock
- completely atechnical. There's either a hold or there isn't, and no friction to make use of. I'm sure it's a completely different ballgame in the higher grades where you have to start using the stuff that on an E2 may as well be painted plywood.
It's funny though how people interpret the term: lots of people would describe anything with small holds as "technical" (even if you can't even choose which holds to use) but a steep crack as "thuggy" and meaning the opposite. But a steep crack that's an awkward width requires a huge amount of technique - brute strength will get you nowhere!
1
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Hum....
Interesting.
I agree with you.
Crack and crack climbing can be very technical.....
There are jams and torquing to learn for the technique.
Not that I've climbed any cracks though or climbed on slate....
My knowledge is from books and The Wide Boyz masterclass and their Video tutorials.
Sav
Hum....
Interesting.
I agree with you.
Crack and crack climbing can be very technical.....
There are jams and torquing to learn for the technique.
Not that I've climbed any cracks though or climbed on slate....
My knowledge is from books and The Wide Boyz masterclass and their Video tutorials.
Sav
Post edited at 01:04
In reply to Mountain Spirit and Jon Stewart
All climbing moves require technique does that make them all technical?
It's a bizarre term in my opinion and climbers interpretation of the term would possibly make for an interesting thread...
In my opinion once you start climbing British tech grade 6b / 6c and above slate moves can't be seen as straightforward or as you say Jon 'indoor climbing outdoors'.
All climbing moves require technique does that make them all technical?
It's a bizarre term in my opinion and climbers interpretation of the term would possibly make for an interesting thread...
In my opinion once you start climbing British tech grade 6b / 6c and above slate moves can't be seen as straightforward or as you say Jon 'indoor climbing outdoors'.
1
In reply to Sl@te Head:
I usual read technical to mean, strength won't help you a great deal. Like the comment Jon made about steep, awkward cracks, they require good technique. I think slab climbing is mainly technical, in that sense at least. Precise footwork and careful shifting of body weight is generally the key, but I suppose the ability to crimp hard can help too. I think the least technical sort of climbing is steep and sustained, with holds you can pull down on. Fitness and strength can see you through.
I think slate might become my favourite rock type. After plastic.
> All climbing moves require technique does that make them all technical?
I usual read technical to mean, strength won't help you a great deal. Like the comment Jon made about steep, awkward cracks, they require good technique. I think slab climbing is mainly technical, in that sense at least. Precise footwork and careful shifting of body weight is generally the key, but I suppose the ability to crimp hard can help too. I think the least technical sort of climbing is steep and sustained, with holds you can pull down on. Fitness and strength can see you through.
> 'indoor climbing outdoors'
I think slate might become my favourite rock type. After plastic.
Post edited at 10:52
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Take a look at the definition of technical in a dictionary, doesn't make much sense in the context of climbing imo.
I prefer the term sequency.
Take a look at the definition of technical in a dictionary, doesn't make much sense in the context of climbing imo.
I prefer the term sequency.
In reply to Sl@te Head:
I think words can acquire a different meaning in a specialist area (such as climbing).
> Take a look at the definition of technical in a dictionary
I think words can acquire a different meaning in a specialist area (such as climbing).
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
It's bizarre how a thread about Grit has turned to a discussion about Slate!
If you're ever keen to try some Slate Climbing Sav, I would be happy to show you around the quarries and give you some free coaching.
I have to say though that I'm still not 100% sure that you actually exist, I have my doubts and think that maybe you're a made up person that UKC have created to keep the forums busy!
Apologies if this isn't true and yes the offer is genuine.
It's bizarre how a thread about Grit has turned to a discussion about Slate!
If you're ever keen to try some Slate Climbing Sav, I would be happy to show you around the quarries and give you some free coaching.
I have to say though that I'm still not 100% sure that you actually exist, I have my doubts and think that maybe you're a made up person that UKC have created to keep the forums busy!
Apologies if this isn't true and yes the offer is genuine.
2
In reply to Sl@te Head:
I am real and I am keen to try Slate Climbing. I will send you a message with e - mail and mobile number.
Sav
I am real and I am keen to try Slate Climbing. I will send you a message with e - mail and mobile number.
Sav
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
So, next week master grit and the week after master slate.
Remember we want video. It doesn't matter if it's top roping a mod, so long as you are actually climbing rock we'll all be happy.
So, next week master grit and the week after master slate.
Remember we want video. It doesn't matter if it's top roping a mod, so long as you are actually climbing rock we'll all be happy.
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit: TBH, hard grit doesn't make me sit up and go wow. Hard sport, the stuff Ondra crushes, is much, much more impressive. 9b+ is mind-bogglingly difficult, more so than E10/11.
Andy F
Andy F
1
In reply to andy farnell:
I agree with you but I am not that into Adam Ondra nor Chris Sharma.
For sport I am a big Steve Mcclure and Neil Gresham fan.
I agree with you but I am not that into Adam Ondra nor Chris Sharma.
For sport I am a big Steve Mcclure and Neil Gresham fan.
In reply to andy farnell:
>"hard grit doesn't make me sit up and go wow"
Perhaps not, but watching it does sweat up the palms and leaves you slightly queezy. Empathy with the consequences.
>"hard grit doesn't make me sit up and go wow"
Perhaps not, but watching it does sweat up the palms and leaves you slightly queezy. Empathy with the consequences.
In reply to andy farnell:
In general I'm not that bothered about what the top climbers do, but I'm always far more impressed by stuff that's serious. I just think that being able to be the best at a purely physical challenge is merely a quirk of physiology: quite a few people try hard enough, and only those with that quirk will climb 9b+. I can't get much more bothered than, "the holds are very small, well done", whereas I'm quite interested in what's going on in a climber's head on hard grit routes, thanks to clips like Seb Grieve on Meshuga and Pete Whitaker's "top rope, top rope, top rope" routine on Dynamics of Change belayed by his mum. Much better entertainment!
> TBH, hard grit doesn't make me sit up and go wow. Hard sport, the stuff Ondra crushes, is much, much more impressive. 9b+ is mind-bogglingly difficult, more so than E10/11.
In general I'm not that bothered about what the top climbers do, but I'm always far more impressed by stuff that's serious. I just think that being able to be the best at a purely physical challenge is merely a quirk of physiology: quite a few people try hard enough, and only those with that quirk will climb 9b+. I can't get much more bothered than, "the holds are very small, well done", whereas I'm quite interested in what's going on in a climber's head on hard grit routes, thanks to clips like Seb Grieve on Meshuga and Pete Whitaker's "top rope, top rope, top rope" routine on Dynamics of Change belayed by his mum. Much better entertainment!
1
In reply to Sl@te Head:
True! For me, a climb becomes technical at the point where I have to start thinking about the moves, rather than just making them easily; which would mean that as a 'term', it depends on your personal level of climbing, rather than being a solid definition. Something a 6a climbers finds technical would not be technical to a 7a climber, or not so much.
> All climbing moves require technique does that make them all technical?
> It's a bizarre term in my opinion and climbers interpretation of the term would possibly make for an interesting thread...
True! For me, a climb becomes technical at the point where I have to start thinking about the moves, rather than just making them easily; which would mean that as a 'term', it depends on your personal level of climbing, rather than being a solid definition. Something a 6a climbers finds technical would not be technical to a 7a climber, or not so much.
1
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I've seen a clip of Pete on Dynamics of Change and that rockover looks very hard and painful.
I think bold arete s on grit are very serious.
Sav
I've seen a clip of Pete on Dynamics of Change and that rockover looks very hard and painful.
I think bold arete s on grit are very serious.
Sav
In reply to Jon Stewart:
For me routes Ike Change or La Dura Dura are super impressive, not just for the technical difficulty, but also for the amazing ground they cover. Extended bouldering on small brown scrittley outcrops isn't in the same ballpark imho.
Andy F
For me routes Ike Change or La Dura Dura are super impressive, not just for the technical difficulty, but also for the amazing ground they cover. Extended bouldering on small brown scrittley outcrops isn't in the same ballpark imho.
Andy F
In reply to andy farnell:
Small brown scrittly outcrops or an arbitrary line of bolts sound equally unimpressive to me. It's just that if I'm going to watch someone else, then I'm not going to get through the power-screaming and repeated falls of sport climbing, but I do find myself gripped by watching someone else who is themselves totally and utterly gripped.
Small brown scrittly outcrops or an arbitrary line of bolts sound equally unimpressive to me. It's just that if I'm going to watch someone else, then I'm not going to get through the power-screaming and repeated falls of sport climbing, but I do find myself gripped by watching someone else who is themselves totally and utterly gripped.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Watching Ondra or Sharma miss clips on amazingly steep and phenomenally hard ground is just as gripping as someone in control on a grit headpoint where the outcome isn't in doubt.
Andy F
Watching Ondra or Sharma miss clips on amazingly steep and phenomenally hard ground is just as gripping as someone in control on a grit headpoint where the outcome isn't in doubt.
Andy F
In reply to andy farnell:
Not for me it's not. You seem to be missing the fact that what's impressive or interesting about someone else's climbing is entirely subjective.
> Watching Ondra or Sharma miss clips on amazingly steep and phenomenally hard ground is just as gripping as someone in control on a grit headpoint where the outcome isn't in doubt.
Not for me it's not. You seem to be missing the fact that what's impressive or interesting about someone else's climbing is entirely subjective.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
That is exactly the point I am making. You're right, it is completely subjective. Some like hard grit, others hard sport, skinny topless youths in beanies like bouldering, some people even like hard winter climbing. Each to their own. Merry Xmas one and all...
Andy F
> Not for me it's not. You seem to be missing the fact that what's impressive or interesting about someone else's climbing is entirely subjective.
That is exactly the point I am making. You're right, it is completely subjective. Some like hard grit, others hard sport, skinny topless youths in beanies like bouldering, some people even like hard winter climbing. Each to their own. Merry Xmas one and all...
Andy F
1
In reply to Sl@te Head:
'Technical' would seem to me to mean moves that are hard, and completely independent from whether the climbing is strenuous or not. A lot of the time this could mean sequency but the moves must still be difficult in the context of the overall climb. For example, an E1 5c will be technical (by definition) while an E1 5a won't, but could still be sequency. Very hard padding will be technical but not very sequency, if at all.
'Technical' would seem to me to mean moves that are hard, and completely independent from whether the climbing is strenuous or not. A lot of the time this could mean sequency but the moves must still be difficult in the context of the overall climb. For example, an E1 5c will be technical (by definition) while an E1 5a won't, but could still be sequency. Very hard padding will be technical but not very sequency, if at all.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Not everyone finds E1 5c hard.
> 'Technical' would seem to me to mean moves that are hard
> an E1 5c will be technical (by definition)
Not everyone finds E1 5c hard.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
It's technical for E1 though. In the same way an E5 5c would not be technical but an E5 6c would, even if a select few might not find one difficult.
It's technical for E1 though. In the same way an E5 5c would not be technical but an E5 6c would, even if a select few might not find one difficult.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
It clearly bothers you...
Do some grit and dispel your daemons...
Or reinforce them...
Climb as hard as you can at Stannage or Almscliffe and then repost...
Do or do not...
There is no try...
It clearly bothers you...
Do some grit and dispel your daemons...
Or reinforce them...
Climb as hard as you can at Stannage or Almscliffe and then repost...
Do or do not...
There is no try...
1
In reply to peter.corrigan:
If you don't try....
You don't do ....
And if you don't do....
What is a non gender specific person..........?
If you don't try....
You don't do ....
And if you don't do....
What is a non gender specific person..........?
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I think to go back to your original question Sav: it will be a big deal and a great achievement ....for you... to get out on grit.
So go for it!
I think to go back to your original question Sav: it will be a big deal and a great achievement ....for you... to get out on grit.
So go for it!
1
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I suspect a lot of the mystique around grit may come from the days before cams when a lot of climbs, even at fairly low grades, pretty much had to be soloed. Having 'done stuff on grit' basically meant you were prepared to risk falls with possible lethal results. Now, with cams, there's a lot less risk on most routes.
I suspect a lot of the mystique around grit may come from the days before cams when a lot of climbs, even at fairly low grades, pretty much had to be soloed. Having 'done stuff on grit' basically meant you were prepared to risk falls with possible lethal results. Now, with cams, there's a lot less risk on most routes.
1
In reply to BarrySW19:
You do know that the routes Savvas mentioned were girst done post cams; and also where falls are still just as serious as they've always been.
You do know that the routes Savvas mentioned were girst done post cams; and also where falls are still just as serious as they've always been.
1
In reply to BarrySW19:
I agree with you.
In the first chapters of Peak Rock there is no mention of cams on even V D or S routes.
I agree with you.
In the first chapters of Peak Rock there is no mention of cams on even V D or S routes.
In reply to deacondeacon:
I've never seen any of those routes on YouTube but I suspect you are right.
I have read that Gaia has a reputation for a scary if not serious ground fall at the start and Harder Faster you would definitely suffer a ground fall if you could not do the move.
The arete routes scare me the most and I call them pants fillers.
I would suspect a fall on The Angels Share would likely end up in a serious injury because it is a slab.
I've never seen any of those routes on YouTube but I suspect you are right.
I have read that Gaia has a reputation for a scary if not serious ground fall at the start and Harder Faster you would definitely suffer a ground fall if you could not do the move.
The arete routes scare me the most and I call them pants fillers.
I would suspect a fall on The Angels Share would likely end up in a serious injury because it is a slab.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Just a quick reality check here - we do all know that the "What has he ever done on the grit?" thing is a joke, right?
(And that it always has been.)
Just a quick reality check here - we do all know that the "What has he ever done on the grit?" thing is a joke, right?
(And that it always has been.)
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
in june when you finally get outdoors,makes sure you put your helmet on straight.
in june when you finally get outdoors,makes sure you put your helmet on straight.
2
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
It's decades since I climbed on grit, and my memory of it was that it was
a) hard and
b) scary to lead on
But that was in the olden days before most of us had cams, so I may have a warped view......
It's decades since I climbed on grit, and my memory of it was that it was
a) hard and
b) scary to lead on
But that was in the olden days before most of us had cams, so I may have a warped view......
1
In reply to mark s:
Is a helmet needed for grit anyway?
I think the day with Caff and Jack is in April.
I think I told you that I am climbing in Jan with Nath.
Are you talking about Sea Cliff Climbing where wearing a helmet is essential due to loose rock?
Is a helmet needed for grit anyway?
I think the day with Caff and Jack is in April.
I think I told you that I am climbing in Jan with Nath.
Are you talking about Sea Cliff Climbing where wearing a helmet is essential due to loose rock?
Post edited at 16:14
In reply to Trangia:
So Cams are essential for grit climbing then!?
At the DMM/AMI masterclass at The Outdoors Show I found them a bit difficult to place.
So Cams are essential for grit climbing then!?
At the DMM/AMI masterclass at The Outdoors Show I found them a bit difficult to place.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
No - but they can make a lot life easier, especially on strenuous routes,
Chris
> So Cams are essential for grit climbing then!?
No - but they can make a lot life easier, especially on strenuous routes,
Chris
2
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Thanks.
I have a both Eastern Grit and Western Grit at home and IMHO I think they are top quality books.
I have never used them properly yet but I do love looking through them to find easy routes and to keep psyched.
Thanks.
I have a both Eastern Grit and Western Grit at home and IMHO I think they are top quality books.
I have never used them properly yet but I do love looking through them to find easy routes and to keep psyched.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
its up to you if you wear one,but the pics ive seen of you at a climbing wall you always have a helmet on and its never straight
its up to you if you wear one,but the pics ive seen of you at a climbing wall you always have a helmet on and its never straight
2
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Guidebooks are for reading on the toilet. What's stopping you?
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> Thanks.
>
> I have a both Eastern Grit and Western Grit
> I have never used them properly
>
> Thanks.
>
> I have a both Eastern Grit and Western Grit
> I have never used them properly
Guidebooks are for reading on the toilet. What's stopping you?
1
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Only if you're leading them.
> No - but they can make a lot life easier, especially on strenuous routes,
Only if you're leading them.
1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I have a photo of a squirrel on my kitchen cupboard.
I have a put a speech bubble on it,saying " Think you can climb,punk?"
I have a photo of a squirrel on my kitchen cupboard.
I have a put a speech bubble on it,saying " Think you can climb,punk?"
1
1
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...