UKC

Does anybody know what the exit from Coire na Tulaich is like at the moment as I'm thinking of climbing Buachaile Etive Mor tomorrow but I know there have been tragedies in this spot. Well educated guesses from anyone who's frequented BEM in winter welcome.

In reply to Slioch:

Hey

Given the avalanche forecast (Above 750m, Moderate with localised Considerable on northerly to SE aspects) and the build up in coire rims and gullies as hinted in todays SAIS Glen Coe blog, http://glencoeblog.sais.gov.uk/2014/12/flat-light/ , my educated guess would be that bad conditions may well be found at the headwall. You can always go up the spur by Creag a' Bhancair, though. I tend to not bother with the Tulaich headwall in built-up conditions.

Thanks Kevin, is that the spur to the west of Coire na Tulaich that ends at spot height 902?

In reply to Slioch:

Yep, that's the one.

In reply to Slioch:

If in doubt, there is no doubt - choose another route.

In reply to Slioch:

Was up there today and will add more detail and photos later, but essentially there's very little old snow at the top of the headwall. There's a bit of build up on top of this in places, but these sections are easily avoided. Top 50m or so is old scoured icy snow, crampons essential (saw a few folks turning back because they didn't have them) but after that it's fresh powder all the way along the ridge, crampons were off the whole way.

Very little "proper snow" in general on teh Buachaille, lots of new stuff though which hasn't consolidated in any way shape or form!! Stunning day out though