In reply to rob malik:
The guidebook Scrambles in Snowdonia is a good place to start.
I see from your profile you have done Mt Blanc via the Gouter. Not sure if this was independently or with a guide, same for the Matterhorn ascent.
I guess you are a walker and scrambler rather than someone used to pitched climbing and may be doing the Matterhorn guided. Therefore I would recommend going up and down as many grade 1 scrambles as you can, perhaps moving on to grade 2s if you are comfortable with the terrain. The priority will be mountain fitness and efficient movement skills up and down scrambling terrain over long days wearing the same footwear you will use on the Matterhorn. Examples of circuits could include:
- Going up the gully by the Idwal Slabs, continuing up Seniors Ridge and descending the Gribin Ridge
- Going up Little Gully on Tryfan, on to Bristly Ridge, down Gribin, across to Bwlch Tryfan, climb Tryfan and descend the North Ridge
- The Snowdon Horseshoe, possibly going up via Lliwedd and down via Crib Goch
The Hornli Ridge is mostly a very long day of scrambling both up and down on often very exposed terrain. There are some easy short rock climbing sections and thick fixed ropes in some parts. As well as good fitness and efficient movement skills ideally you would be able to move together roped up. If being guided this is not a problem. If going independently and you have not done this before this requires a lot of practice to become safer and efficient. Perhaps book a weekend with an M.I.A. or M.I.C. or consider doing a course such as at Plas Y Brenin. Alternatively join a club which has members who could show you or you may prefer to learn independently with mates. If learning independently I suggest you start on ground you find very easy to start with and then build up.
If you have done some pitched climbing, moving together roped up or feel ready for the challenge consider linking in some of the Grade 3 scrambles such as the Cneifion Arete in Ogwen or Clogwyn Y Person Arete in Llanberis. Remember, many people who do these would require / prefer to have a rope and some basic climbing equipment and have the knowledge and skills to use them to enhance safety. As suggested, the longer easier climbs can be linked. Days could include:
- A route up the Idwal Slabs, walls above and upper cliff of Glyder Fawr.
- A route on Cyrn Las, Clogwyn Y Person and Crib Goch.
- Doing a route on Tryfan East Face, descend Easy Gully, do another route and repeat until you have had enough!
Experience on easy mixed ground is useful too, consider getting some winter walking / scrambling / climbing done this winter if you have not done a lot before.
Hope this helps,
Mark
