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Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=605216
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-climbs-his-first-real...
I think the final Portland list for 10/11 jan was looking like:
Mrchewy
Hms +1
Nick R
mattrm
Dandan+some
Just Tintin +1
A merry Christmas to one and all. I hope you are laden with new psyche inducing toys, guidebooks etc, have a fresh weight belt to help you train heavy over the winter, and had a great time in the lovely weather...
Posters:
AJM
Kevster- sounds more positive than recent weeks. 7b onsight indoors isn't bad going!
Nick Russell - well done on Prisoner! Thanks for agreeing to take over.
The Ex-Engineer - hope christmas has given that finger an opportunity to heal
hms - reading your post it sounds like your 4x4 was done as 4x6a, then 4x6b, etc? Surprised it's not more mixed within the 4s...
Luke Owens - welcome back. Sounds like a good day!
flopsicle- welcome!
mrchewy - hope the sickliness has gone!
Exile - sometimes your body just tells you it needs a rest!
Jeriqo- hard to keep with a plan on the run in to Christmas isn't it!
Dandan82 - body fail! Hope it picks up soon for you...
Ally Smith - NNFN!!
IainRUK - getting back into the groove...
Ian Rock - seems like this is the week Fit club got injured!
mattrm - feeling the climbing psyche rising...
mbh - PB in the middle of a longer run, good job!
maria85 - getting back into it. Hope you find snow!
biscuit - ticking over. Hope your motorway miles stop soon...
Joughton - enjoy Turkey!
Humperdink - sounds like good tactical resting early in the week
Creedence- sounds like good sessions early in the week. Hope the bug has passed...
Just Tintin - looking forwards to your write Up!
JimmyKay - sounds like some epic mileage but some good ticks!
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-climbs-his-first-real...
I think the final Portland list for 10/11 jan was looking like:
> ## Definite - wild horses couldn't drag me away
AJMMrchewy
Hms +1
> ## Probably coming
KevsterNick R
mattrm
Dandan+some
Just Tintin +1
> ## I'll come if it's sunny
A merry Christmas to one and all. I hope you are laden with new psyche inducing toys, guidebooks etc, have a fresh weight belt to help you train heavy over the winter, and had a great time in the lovely weather...
Posters:
AJM
Kevster- sounds more positive than recent weeks. 7b onsight indoors isn't bad going!
Nick Russell - well done on Prisoner! Thanks for agreeing to take over.
The Ex-Engineer - hope christmas has given that finger an opportunity to heal
hms - reading your post it sounds like your 4x4 was done as 4x6a, then 4x6b, etc? Surprised it's not more mixed within the 4s...
Luke Owens - welcome back. Sounds like a good day!
flopsicle- welcome!
mrchewy - hope the sickliness has gone!
Exile - sometimes your body just tells you it needs a rest!
Jeriqo- hard to keep with a plan on the run in to Christmas isn't it!
Dandan82 - body fail! Hope it picks up soon for you...
Ally Smith - NNFN!!
IainRUK - getting back into the groove...
Ian Rock - seems like this is the week Fit club got injured!
mattrm - feeling the climbing psyche rising...
mbh - PB in the middle of a longer run, good job!
maria85 - getting back into it. Hope you find snow!
biscuit - ticking over. Hope your motorway miles stop soon...
Joughton - enjoy Turkey!
Humperdink - sounds like good tactical resting early in the week
Creedence- sounds like good sessions early in the week. Hope the bug has passed...
Just Tintin - looking forwards to your write Up!
JimmyKay - sounds like some epic mileage but some good ticks!
In reply to AJM:
Merely following the plan I was given - not mine to reason why! Edit: have reread the plan and decided it could be read either way - have asked for clarification.
M - 6 hard boulder problems, try all moves, 15 mins per problem. Went to Bloc this time. Think we picked stuff that was too hard - the yellow set goes from 6b to 7a which is quite a range. Then 15 mins ARC.
T - strength & conditioning - press-ups, planks, waving the dumb-bell about a lot. 3 sets, then another 2 sets in the evening cos I was bored.
W - 4x4s, 6a including downclimbing from 1/2 way, 6b+ ditto, 6cx4, 7ax4. With warm-up and warm-down routes, that was about 28 routes.
T - 2 mile walk.
F - fingerboard, hard set x3, S&C exercises x2
S - slow warm-up as it was cold, then 'double dips': 6cx2, 6cx2, 7ax2, 7a+x2, 7bx2. The 7bx2 didn't really happen - got to the high crux on the first go, then second go couldn't get to the first clip as I didn't seem to be able o hold on any more!
S - developed an absolutely horrid cold, feel like death, being thoroughly miserable. S&C x 2 without much conviction.
Merely following the plan I was given - not mine to reason why! Edit: have reread the plan and decided it could be read either way - have asked for clarification.
M - 6 hard boulder problems, try all moves, 15 mins per problem. Went to Bloc this time. Think we picked stuff that was too hard - the yellow set goes from 6b to 7a which is quite a range. Then 15 mins ARC.
T - strength & conditioning - press-ups, planks, waving the dumb-bell about a lot. 3 sets, then another 2 sets in the evening cos I was bored.
W - 4x4s, 6a including downclimbing from 1/2 way, 6b+ ditto, 6cx4, 7ax4. With warm-up and warm-down routes, that was about 28 routes.
T - 2 mile walk.
F - fingerboard, hard set x3, S&C exercises x2
S - slow warm-up as it was cold, then 'double dips': 6cx2, 6cx2, 7ax2, 7a+x2, 7bx2. The 7bx2 didn't really happen - got to the high crux on the first go, then second go couldn't get to the first clip as I didn't seem to be able o hold on any more!
S - developed an absolutely horrid cold, feel like death, being thoroughly miserable. S&C x 2 without much conviction.
Post edited at 18:10
In reply to hms:
I only wondered because the usual intensity for a 4x4 on ropes is "pumped but in control", and as you say 6a doesn't do that for you and without wishing to denigrate your abilities I suspect 4 7as in a row back to back might not be so much in control any more!
(and I seem to recall Ally was aerocapping on blocks of low 7s routes which suggests the likes of you and I should be on something a little easier!)
I only wondered because the usual intensity for a 4x4 on ropes is "pumped but in control", and as you say 6a doesn't do that for you and without wishing to denigrate your abilities I suspect 4 7as in a row back to back might not be so much in control any more!
(and I seem to recall Ally was aerocapping on blocks of low 7s routes which suggests the likes of you and I should be on something a little easier!)
In reply to AJM:
drat. Don't suppose it will have done me much harm I guess. For the 7a repeats I was using a TR so I could blast up and not worry too much about stopping to clip!
The joy in store for tomorrow is making up very hard problems on the woody. Think I'll need to check how crap I'm feeling before attempting that...
drat. Don't suppose it will have done me much harm I guess. For the 7a repeats I was using a TR so I could blast up and not worry too much about stopping to clip!
The joy in store for tomorrow is making up very hard problems on the woody. Think I'll need to check how crap I'm feeling before attempting that...
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, and I quite enjoy doing the stats on here so no problem with taking over for a while. Easy week to report for me - mostly spent skiing.
M - Got a bit more adventurous than last Sunday, walked a little way to some untracked snow then proceeded to faceplant my way down. Bleeding lip, nose, etc. Crappy, crusty snow didn't help but I must have learnt something because the second time was much better.
T - More skiing
W - Highlight was a long (900m descent) run down a glacier and unpisted valley. Well tracked, but still felt pretty remote.
T - More skiing
F - A sprinkling of fresh snow. Got slightly better conditions on the limited off piste available. No faceplants.
S - Last day. Epic amounts of snow overnight continuing through the day. Only got 2 runs in before leaving for an awful journey back
S - Mostly a continuation of the return journey.
> Nick Russell - well done on Prisoner! Thanks for agreeing to take over.
Thanks, and I quite enjoy doing the stats on here so no problem with taking over for a while. Easy week to report for me - mostly spent skiing.
M - Got a bit more adventurous than last Sunday, walked a little way to some untracked snow then proceeded to faceplant my way down. Bleeding lip, nose, etc. Crappy, crusty snow didn't help but I must have learnt something because the second time was much better.
T - More skiing
W - Highlight was a long (900m descent) run down a glacier and unpisted valley. Well tracked, but still felt pretty remote.
T - More skiing
F - A sprinkling of fresh snow. Got slightly better conditions on the limited off piste available. No faceplants.
S - Last day. Epic amounts of snow overnight continuing through the day. Only got 2 runs in before leaving for an awful journey back
S - Mostly a continuation of the return journey.
In reply to hms:
Sounds fun! I'm not around tomorrow but if you have that session again I'll happily join in!
> The joy in store for tomorrow is making up very hard problems on the woody. Think I'll need to check how crap I'm feeling before attempting that...
Sounds fun! I'm not around tomorrow but if you have that session again I'll happily join in!
In reply to AJM:
Another poorish week with only 2 sessions, but given Xmas and limited opening times at the wall I suppose it wasn't too bad. Also on the positive side my finger has had the chance to fully heal.
STG. Find partners for routes. - Fail.
MTG. Train 4 times per week. - Fail.
LTG. tbc
M - travelling
T - Boulder
W - work (wall shut early)
T - eat, drink and be merry!
F - work (wall shut)
S - Boulder
S - rest
Another poorish week with only 2 sessions, but given Xmas and limited opening times at the wall I suppose it wasn't too bad. Also on the positive side my finger has had the chance to fully heal.
STG. Find partners for routes. - Fail.
MTG. Train 4 times per week. - Fail.
LTG. tbc
M - travelling
T - Boulder
W - work (wall shut early)
T - eat, drink and be merry!
F - work (wall shut)
S - Boulder
S - rest
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fit club Andy - yep, felt better for it this week
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7, not yet
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
T: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
W: 2hrs 10min fell run (winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
S: 50 sit ups
S:1hr road run (winter endurance)
Weight: 12st
Not a bad week winter prep' wise - just need to now line up family commitments, conditions, time off and a partner!
Finger still hurting so giving the wall a miss this week.
Thanks for doing fit club Andy - yep, felt better for it this week
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7, not yet
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
T: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
W: 2hrs 10min fell run (winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
S: 50 sit ups
S:1hr road run (winter endurance)
Weight: 12st
Not a bad week winter prep' wise - just need to now line up family commitments, conditions, time off and a partner!
Finger still hurting so giving the wall a miss this week.
In reply to Nick Russell:
pretty sure I do but can't remember when - I'll let you know. Having company for it would be great.
pretty sure I do but can't remember when - I'll let you know. Having company for it would be great.
In reply to AJM:
Somehow, I managed to get 50 miles in again, just, despite Christmas, plus > 6000 ft of hill running.
M -
T - 10 m flattish @ 7:34
W - 12.9 m coast path, 2000 ft
T - meal prep done, 8.1 miles hills on road, 1340 ft
F - 15.2 miles hills on road, 2420 ft. In cold rain.
S - drive to Brighton. Family do. Lots of wine.
S - 4.4 miles, Brighton, to the pier and back.
Somehow, I managed to get 50 miles in again, just, despite Christmas, plus > 6000 ft of hill running.
M -
T - 10 m flattish @ 7:34
W - 12.9 m coast path, 2000 ft
T - meal prep done, 8.1 miles hills on road, 1340 ft
F - 15.2 miles hills on road, 2420 ft. In cold rain.
S - drive to Brighton. Family do. Lots of wine.
S - 4.4 miles, Brighton, to the pier and back.
It certainly is, got out a bit this week. Back to it next week with hopefully a bit more structure but the snow may cause a few distractions.
Mon - easy run along gower coast 60mins
Tue - mountain biking @ afan 23km
Wed - 1hr run up the beacons
Thu - festivities
Fri - more festivities
Sat - climbing @ boulders, Cardiff, Great Wall loads of routes
Sun - nowt
Mon - easy run along gower coast 60mins
Tue - mountain biking @ afan 23km
Wed - 1hr run up the beacons
Thu - festivities
Fri - more festivities
Sat - climbing @ boulders, Cardiff, Great Wall loads of routes
Sun - nowt
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. I hope all fit clubbers have had a good Christmas.
Last week:
Started to feel back to normal by the end of the week. A light wall session on boxing day, and a full on core and fingerboard session today. So back to training tomorrow.
M - Sick
T - Sick
W - Sick
T - Christmas
F - Wall. Light session to ease back into it. 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 7a.
S - Walk in the snow!
S - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+2kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs).
+1kg slopers, +1kg front 3.
Thanks AJM. I hope all fit clubbers have had a good Christmas.
Last week:
Started to feel back to normal by the end of the week. A light wall session on boxing day, and a full on core and fingerboard session today. So back to training tomorrow.
M - Sick
T - Sick
W - Sick
T - Christmas
F - Wall. Light session to ease back into it. 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 7a.
S - Walk in the snow!
S - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+2kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs).
+1kg slopers, +1kg front 3.
In reply to AJM:
Back in the game, Part II - sort of, maybe.
Since returning to climbing following a long lay off with 'elbows' I've had to take it easy as a result of a badly twisted ankle and a very bad case of 'work' (plus 2 weeks off for a DIY related cut hand!). I'm keen to get started again but it's from a low base so...
STG: Get an appointment with consultant to sort my ankle
MTG: Work out a dead hang routine and do it twice a week for three months
LTG: <Usual over ambitious shite to go here>
M: nothing
T: Stockport wall, really psyched top roped stuff got tired, felt great
W: Short session at Stockport, no one around to do routes with so a bit of non committal bouldering (can't risk falling off)
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: 3, 5 and 7 pull ups, it was meant to be a warm up but I struggled with each set. Repeater (7:3 secs)*4. 8 sets with 4 mins rest between sets. Didn't complete either set on the smallest rung but it's a start.
S: nothing
Back in the game, Part II - sort of, maybe.
Since returning to climbing following a long lay off with 'elbows' I've had to take it easy as a result of a badly twisted ankle and a very bad case of 'work' (plus 2 weeks off for a DIY related cut hand!). I'm keen to get started again but it's from a low base so...
STG: Get an appointment with consultant to sort my ankle
MTG: Work out a dead hang routine and do it twice a week for three months
LTG: <Usual over ambitious shite to go here>
M: nothing
T: Stockport wall, really psyched top roped stuff got tired, felt great
W: Short session at Stockport, no one around to do routes with so a bit of non committal bouldering (can't risk falling off)
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: 3, 5 and 7 pull ups, it was meant to be a warm up but I struggled with each set. Repeater (7:3 secs)*4. 8 sets with 4 mins rest between sets. Didn't complete either set on the smallest rung but it's a start.
S: nothing
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
How short term is that and where are you based?
> STG. Find partners for routes. - Fail
How short term is that and where are you based?
In reply to hms:
See what he says I guess.
Little climbing done this week. Start of the week my hand and wrist was really playing upo I took the executive decision to sack the plan until today. Got physio tomorrow and doctor Tuesday to try and get a diagnosis.
Today was ok. The odd niggle but I managed to do a set of conditioning and a boulder mileage session which was debilitating, no power left, think I was slightly over intensity as there were a few problems I just couldn't re-complete in the second set.
Next week is scheduled as a light week because of the possibility of outdoor climbing so if I don't get banned by physio/doctor in the next few days I will try and do next week's session plus maybe claw back a bit of the stuff I missed this week.
In terms of other exercise I cycled 2/3 of the days I was in work, did a 6 mile walk on Xmas day (600ft ascent?), a 2-3 mile walk yesterday (some ascent, guessing ~500 foot?) and an unknown number of mainly flat miles today.
See what he says I guess.
Little climbing done this week. Start of the week my hand and wrist was really playing upo I took the executive decision to sack the plan until today. Got physio tomorrow and doctor Tuesday to try and get a diagnosis.
Today was ok. The odd niggle but I managed to do a set of conditioning and a boulder mileage session which was debilitating, no power left, think I was slightly over intensity as there were a few problems I just couldn't re-complete in the second set.
Next week is scheduled as a light week because of the possibility of outdoor climbing so if I don't get banned by physio/doctor in the next few days I will try and do next week's session plus maybe claw back a bit of the stuff I missed this week.
In terms of other exercise I cycled 2/3 of the days I was in work, did a 6 mile walk on Xmas day (600ft ascent?), a 2-3 mile walk yesterday (some ascent, guessing ~500 foot?) and an unknown number of mainly flat miles today.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (2 lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 100 dish tucks
T - S - Christmas, more door painting, fitting doors, making two new ones
S - 100 dish tucks
Did a bit of exercise this week, which was good. No climbing or running which was less good. Still making steady progress on the kitchen, but it's feeling like it's taking forever at the moment. Made a couple of new doors. Painted a lot of it. Still quite a bit of work to go on some parts of it. But other parts are nearly finished. So it's all good. Definitely keen to get back to climbing.
Aim for next week:
3 or more core sessions
1 yoga session
1 climbing session
1 run
Thanks Andy.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (2 lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 100 dish tucks
T - S - Christmas, more door painting, fitting doors, making two new ones
S - 100 dish tucks
Did a bit of exercise this week, which was good. No climbing or running which was less good. Still making steady progress on the kitchen, but it's feeling like it's taking forever at the moment. Made a couple of new doors. Painted a lot of it. Still quite a bit of work to go on some parts of it. But other parts are nearly finished. So it's all good. Definitely keen to get back to climbing.
Aim for next week:
3 or more core sessions
1 yoga session
1 climbing session
1 run
Post edited at 08:45
In reply to AJM:
Been nursing an overuse injury this week. On the bright side if ever there was a good time to be injured, Christmas week is it.
M - Cycle Commute. Swimming - 1km multiple strokes. Swimming pool empty so mainly backstroke, which is always good for a laugh!
T - Cycle Commute. Rest.
W - Rest / Walk.
T - Rest.
F - Rest / Walk.
S - Walk and 6km easy run.
S - Rest / Recovery Walk.
Been nursing an overuse injury this week. On the bright side if ever there was a good time to be injured, Christmas week is it.
M - Cycle Commute. Swimming - 1km multiple strokes. Swimming pool empty so mainly backstroke, which is always good for a laugh!
T - Cycle Commute. Rest.
W - Rest / Walk.
T - Rest.
F - Rest / Walk.
S - Walk and 6km easy run.
S - Rest / Recovery Walk.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the welcomes last week - might have to go stand in the corner this week though!
M- 1.5 miles running (hills - where I live it's always hills!)
T - 0.8 mile running - yes I am desperate enough to count that!
W - 2 hrs at the wall, very mixed, probably only 1 hr of sensible climbing.
Th - 2.5 running miles hills with lots of added mud! My chrimbo treat for cooking.
F - Meh!
Saturday - 2 hrs at the wall but only climbed for 30/40 mins!
Sunday - 2 hrs wall, climbed for about 1.5hrs.
Looks quite good as a list till the distances and times start popping out! I think I need to go and find a snotty wall where I don't like anyone so don't get having a laugh and natter.
Thanks for the welcomes last week - might have to go stand in the corner this week though!
M- 1.5 miles running (hills - where I live it's always hills!)
T - 0.8 mile running - yes I am desperate enough to count that!
W - 2 hrs at the wall, very mixed, probably only 1 hr of sensible climbing.
Th - 2.5 running miles hills with lots of added mud! My chrimbo treat for cooking.
F - Meh!
Saturday - 2 hrs at the wall but only climbed for 30/40 mins!
Sunday - 2 hrs wall, climbed for about 1.5hrs.
Looks quite good as a list till the distances and times start popping out! I think I need to go and find a snotty wall where I don't like anyone so don't get having a laugh and natter.
In reply to AJM:
Whilst I think about it I should be organised - could people interested in the planned Portland meetup send me their email address please?
Some I know I have (helen, nick, Kev, Ally), some I'm less sure about (matt, Kelvin), and some I'm pretty sure I don't have (dandan, tintin, anyone else who is interested).
Whilst I think about it I should be organised - could people interested in the planned Portland meetup send me their email address please?
Some I know I have (helen, nick, Kev, Ally), some I'm less sure about (matt, Kelvin), and some I'm pretty sure I don't have (dandan, tintin, anyone else who is interested).
In reply to AJM:
Merry festive season all.
Brief for me this week - zip. Think I may have got fatter though, without trying!
Maybe something this week?! I hope.
Chin chin, Kev.
Merry festive season all.
Brief for me this week - zip. Think I may have got fatter though, without trying!
Maybe something this week?! I hope.
Chin chin, Kev.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for your stint Andy and hi Nick!
A 7-day training week with 3.5 outdoor sessions and some brilliant experiences. Indoor grades are looking better but suspect grading is soft at my South Peak locals as would no way replicate these grades in Oxford!
M - Boulder Milton Keynes WBL. Finally got the cave problem that's been bugging me on this set.
T - lead Wirksworth pyramid. Onsighted the 6c+7a (must be 6c then!) and a slip away from onsighting another 7a.
W - Boulder Burbage South
T - Christmas Crack as a reindeer! http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=250396
Then soloed a VS, knocked out a V2 and went home for dinner. Best Christmas Day ever.
F - Boulder Burbage North. Too cold and wet on top to do much but traverses. Really cold, like it was going to snow of something...
S - snow! Slowly approached Burbage South from the top across the moor (it seemed more epic wading through knee deep drifts and down scrambling by the quarry than just approaching along the path at the bottom) and did Sitdown Arête which was the only thing j could dig out. Back to Wirksworth to Boulder.
S - Boulder Climbing Unit to V6 onsight.
Thanks for your stint Andy and hi Nick!
A 7-day training week with 3.5 outdoor sessions and some brilliant experiences. Indoor grades are looking better but suspect grading is soft at my South Peak locals as would no way replicate these grades in Oxford!
M - Boulder Milton Keynes WBL. Finally got the cave problem that's been bugging me on this set.
T - lead Wirksworth pyramid. Onsighted the 6c+7a (must be 6c then!) and a slip away from onsighting another 7a.
W - Boulder Burbage South
T - Christmas Crack as a reindeer! http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=250396
Then soloed a VS, knocked out a V2 and went home for dinner. Best Christmas Day ever.
F - Boulder Burbage North. Too cold and wet on top to do much but traverses. Really cold, like it was going to snow of something...
S - snow! Slowly approached Burbage South from the top across the moor (it seemed more epic wading through knee deep drifts and down scrambling by the quarry than just approaching along the path at the bottom) and did Sitdown Arête which was the only thing j could dig out. Back to Wirksworth to Boulder.
S - Boulder Climbing Unit to V6 onsight.
In reply to Tyler:
It is short-term in as much as I know that just bouldering is not ideal for any potential long term goals and I really need to do some leading.
Oxford based (only 10min walk from wall at Brookes) however I have only been living here properly since the end of October and the current plan is to relocate in mid-January for the Scottish Winter season...
> How short term is that and where are you based?
It is short-term in as much as I know that just bouldering is not ideal for any potential long term goals and I really need to do some leading.
Oxford based (only 10min walk from wall at Brookes) however I have only been living here properly since the end of October and the current plan is to relocate in mid-January for the Scottish Winter season...
In reply to AJM:
Some good news on the body fail front, I had a few days rest and then did what has always worked for me in the past and mostly ignored the injuries and pushed on through! Seems to be working so far...
M:
T:
W:
T:
F: Strength and conditioning
S:
S: Portland, Cuttings 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b just cruising
The story doesn't really end there as I continued to climb on Monday AND Tuesday but more of that next week.
So even when my target was to just do the S&C sessions, still only managed 1 out of 2, but I think the rest did me good, the AC joint is finally coming back to health and the finger was perhaps not quite as bad as I had thought and seems to be fixing up reasonably fast.
I have got a new fresh injury though! A bit of googling suggests I have hip bursitis, inflammation of the bursa, a little fluid sac that helps the joint move smoothly. It's only mild but it got worse throughout the week for no discernable reason, I really started to worry I was destine for the scrap heap (bursitis is most commonly found in old people) until the last few days where again, I have tried not to think too much about it and it seems to be easing.
I taped the finger tight across the knuckle on Sunday to limit it's use, it seemed to work as I had no discomfort at all from the climbing. I was tempted to finish the day with a 6c+ attempt but it had a crimpy crux so I put my sensible head on and gave it a miss.
This week in isolation doesn't look all that good but it gets better next week so i'm happy.
> Dandan82 - body fail! Hope it picks up soon for you...
Some good news on the body fail front, I had a few days rest and then did what has always worked for me in the past and mostly ignored the injuries and pushed on through! Seems to be working so far...
M:
T:
W:
T:
F: Strength and conditioning
S:
S: Portland, Cuttings 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b just cruising
The story doesn't really end there as I continued to climb on Monday AND Tuesday but more of that next week.
So even when my target was to just do the S&C sessions, still only managed 1 out of 2, but I think the rest did me good, the AC joint is finally coming back to health and the finger was perhaps not quite as bad as I had thought and seems to be fixing up reasonably fast.
I have got a new fresh injury though! A bit of googling suggests I have hip bursitis, inflammation of the bursa, a little fluid sac that helps the joint move smoothly. It's only mild but it got worse throughout the week for no discernable reason, I really started to worry I was destine for the scrap heap (bursitis is most commonly found in old people) until the last few days where again, I have tried not to think too much about it and it seems to be easing.
I taped the finger tight across the knuckle on Sunday to limit it's use, it seemed to work as I had no discomfort at all from the climbing. I was tempted to finish the day with a 6c+ attempt but it had a crimpy crux so I put my sensible head on and gave it a miss.
This week in isolation doesn't look all that good but it gets better next week so i'm happy.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy - happy hols to everyone!
Still feeling pretty rough, breathing is an issue. Kill me doctor.
Mon - Work. Full on lurgy head.
Tue - The Hobbit and the Xmas night with my kids.
Wed - Panto. Pack for Wales.
Xmas Day - Got to RAC boulders about 3.30pm but gave it a miss.
Boxing Day - Walked into Bus Stop quarry. It rained. Headed north coast. It rained more. Sat in front of log fire.
Sat - Tremadog. Racked up and walked to the bottom of the crag, heavens opened. Beacon. Did some boulder stuff, then leading. Flashed every 5a/b/c I tried but 6a was undoable as couldn't catch my breath.
Sun - Dinorwig. Seconded Bela Lugosi but sat down after that as lungs closed up with the cold air.
Lots of effort to get out this week and miffed I didn't get much done due to illness and weather. Ah well.
Thanks Andy - happy hols to everyone!
Still feeling pretty rough, breathing is an issue. Kill me doctor.
Mon - Work. Full on lurgy head.
Tue - The Hobbit and the Xmas night with my kids.
Wed - Panto. Pack for Wales.
Xmas Day - Got to RAC boulders about 3.30pm but gave it a miss.
Boxing Day - Walked into Bus Stop quarry. It rained. Headed north coast. It rained more. Sat in front of log fire.
Sat - Tremadog. Racked up and walked to the bottom of the crag, heavens opened. Beacon. Did some boulder stuff, then leading. Flashed every 5a/b/c I tried but 6a was undoable as couldn't catch my breath.
Sun - Dinorwig. Seconded Bela Lugosi but sat down after that as lungs closed up with the cold air.
Lots of effort to get out this week and miffed I didn't get much done due to illness and weather. Ah well.
In reply to AJM:
Happy New Year !
Cheers AJM and thanks for steering the ship for so long. Though i've been sporadic at best these last few months i always give the thread a read to see what everyone is up to.
Ended up with 3 people within the family being hospitalised over the Xmas period but eveything is now sorted and everyone is on the mend.
I've just had no chance to climb but did get one hilarious swim session in where JD dragged me to a Manchester Tri Club coached session with the promise of it being an easy one as it's Xmas. Ended up doing 60/50/60's, or some such gobbledigook, which turned out to be 60 x 50m lengths in 60secs per length. Even when i trained for the tri the furthest i swam was 1k. I scraped through with only one embarrassing episode; cramp in my right calf so i had to flop onto the side like a beached whale and try not to cry in front of strangers. It was actually Ok apart from the boredom. I've made a loose commitment to maybe go again if i've nothing better to do, like maybe stabbing myself with a blunt spoon.
Got a couple of runs in too with my new headtorch. It's like a floodlight, brilliant !
Looking at plans to get super organised and find more time/motivation to climb/run more. I'll have to be realistic though as long working hours and kids ( with no babysitter for a while as my Mum is still recovering ) is going to be hard. I'm not giving up though.
Happy New Year !
Cheers AJM and thanks for steering the ship for so long. Though i've been sporadic at best these last few months i always give the thread a read to see what everyone is up to.
Ended up with 3 people within the family being hospitalised over the Xmas period but eveything is now sorted and everyone is on the mend.
I've just had no chance to climb but did get one hilarious swim session in where JD dragged me to a Manchester Tri Club coached session with the promise of it being an easy one as it's Xmas. Ended up doing 60/50/60's, or some such gobbledigook, which turned out to be 60 x 50m lengths in 60secs per length. Even when i trained for the tri the furthest i swam was 1k. I scraped through with only one embarrassing episode; cramp in my right calf so i had to flop onto the side like a beached whale and try not to cry in front of strangers. It was actually Ok apart from the boredom. I've made a loose commitment to maybe go again if i've nothing better to do, like maybe stabbing myself with a blunt spoon.
Got a couple of runs in too with my new headtorch. It's like a floodlight, brilliant !
Looking at plans to get super organised and find more time/motivation to climb/run more. I'll have to be realistic though as long working hours and kids ( with no babysitter for a while as my Mum is still recovering ) is going to be hard. I'm not giving up though.
In reply to biscuit:
Glad to hear that about your family, and I totally sympathize about the swimming. I never got close to that sort of pace and the end point was my own beached whale episode. I didn't cry, but I did squeal
Glad to hear that about your family, and I totally sympathize about the swimming. I never got close to that sort of pace and the end point was my own beached whale episode. I didn't cry, but I did squeal
In reply to AJM:
I didn't do anything this week!
M- too wet in Northumberland so went to climb Newcastle
T-nothing
W-tried low rider at stanage. Wrong problem on the wrong crag. It was far too windy for a problem like this and I was just really miserable due to the freezing cold. Got rained off spring voyager on the way back to the car.
T-nothing
F-nothing
S-nothing
S-tried to get out but everything was wet because of the snow.
I didn't do anything this week!
M- too wet in Northumberland so went to climb Newcastle
T-nothing
W-tried low rider at stanage. Wrong problem on the wrong crag. It was far too windy for a problem like this and I was just really miserable due to the freezing cold. Got rained off spring voyager on the way back to the car.
T-nothing
F-nothing
S-nothing
S-tried to get out but everything was wet because of the snow.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, sorry for being late this week, tried to get plenty of miles in which always proves difficult when juggling family commitments etc. Managed to sneak out twice on Christmas day which is a first (although second run slightly under the influence!)
M: lunchtime 9/10M steady in 63:11, pm - 6/7M steady in 45:06
Tu: windy! am - session 6 x "1 mile" on grass off 90 seconds recovery. Felt tired and got a bit of a kicking on the first few reps but stuck at it and times stayed the same whilst everyone else slowed so by the final rep I was at the front! 10M total, pm - 6M steady in 41:55
W: 11M easy in 1:17:47 - tired!
Th: am - 9/10M steady in 64:11, pm - 5/6M easy in 40:34
F: v cold/ frosty am- 6M steady in 40:30
Sa: Too many family commitments and a 3.5hr drive meant no run
Su: am - Saturdays session: 12mn tempo (2min), 10x 2min (1min), 12 min tempo ha to be careful on the roads as still icy! ~13M total, pm - 5M easy in 34:41
~77M Total for the week, good but not quite what I had in mind. Probably for the best as felt quite tired during the week despite no work. All eyes on cross country races now in Jan/Feb
Thanks AJM, sorry for being late this week, tried to get plenty of miles in which always proves difficult when juggling family commitments etc. Managed to sneak out twice on Christmas day which is a first (although second run slightly under the influence!)
M: lunchtime 9/10M steady in 63:11, pm - 6/7M steady in 45:06
Tu: windy! am - session 6 x "1 mile" on grass off 90 seconds recovery. Felt tired and got a bit of a kicking on the first few reps but stuck at it and times stayed the same whilst everyone else slowed so by the final rep I was at the front! 10M total, pm - 6M steady in 41:55
W: 11M easy in 1:17:47 - tired!
Th: am - 9/10M steady in 64:11, pm - 5/6M easy in 40:34
F: v cold/ frosty am- 6M steady in 40:30
Sa: Too many family commitments and a 3.5hr drive meant no run
Su: am - Saturdays session: 12mn tempo (2min), 10x 2min (1min), 12 min tempo ha to be careful on the roads as still icy! ~13M total, pm - 5M easy in 34:41
~77M Total for the week, good but not quite what I had in mind. Probably for the best as felt quite tired during the week despite no work. All eyes on cross country races now in Jan/Feb
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