UKC

Not done Tower ridge before.... at what point on the ridge do you reach the eastern traverse ?? and what am i likely to encounter...thanks

In reply to nation1:

Have you got the various guidebooks?

In reply to DaveHK:

no guide book

In reply to nation1:

I'd start with the guidebook then. It tells you most of what you need to know. The Tower Ridge Rule Book in Cold Climbs is also very good.

In reply to nation1:

It's pretty obvious when you get there. Have a browse of UKC photos, there are surely plenty of the traverse.

In reply to nation1:

Hopefully you realise the grade of TR was raised from 3 to IV3 because of the number of MR visits..

In reply to nation1:

The eastern traverse avoids the Great Tower. One pitch on route, about II/III. rest is moving together. Alpine grade of about AD-. Expect melting crappy snow currently.

In reply to nation1:
A little steep step onto the ridge out of the initial gully, then another steep bit on the little Tower, until you finally reach the Eastern traverse where the Great Tower literally towers above! The interesting bit for me is both the bit at the end of the traverse and the crossing of Tower Gap onto a steep snowed up slab. The main problem with the climb, is that it is often not possible to pass others moving slowly up the route. Best to start late and finish with headtorches, as everyone else starts early.

In reply to nation1:

There was a video done by west coast mountain guides, but I can't find it.

In reply to rnotman67:


AK seems to have handed over the reins, but this is still on Vimeo:

vimeo.com/13218387

In reply to nation1:

Don't go left to early looking for it, quite easy to be lured in when its misty! I did this earlier in the summer, my second time up there and ended up and not so nice ground regaining the ridge itself just below the great tower!

In reply to Nath93:

+1 for Nathans comment. I went early during a summer ascent until stopped by Gandalfs voice booming through the mist 'That is NOT the Eastern Traverse, you shall not pass'! Lol

In reply to Malpractise:

Weird. We were just saying on another thread how Gandalf would be the best climbing partner. Guess you're the lucky one.

In reply to nation1:

great video clip, thanks for all comments

In reply to nufkin:



Wow, that is a great vid. Doesn't get much better than that for me (a scrambles and easy climbs/ridge kind of guy). That would be my perfect mountain day!

In reply to Sean Kelly:


Numerous parties who have started late and finished (or not) with headtorches would disagree with you...

In reply to nation1:

Very very very easy to traverse too early. At the common place to do so, there's even a short wall above you to entice you to do just that (and there may well be foot steps too!).

Basically, only traverse left when there is a big (and I mean biiiig) steep wall blocking the whole of the ridge immediately in-front of you.

Oh, and buy a guidebook... and a map... and a compass. Enjoy!!