UKC

ALPKIT Gear? Huzzah! + Aliens?

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 coolbert 01 Jan 2015
Um, Alpkit selling gear and slings and ropes and original style aliens? Best news, gear wise, for ages!

https://www.alpkit.com/explore/climbing
 deepsoup 01 Jan 2015
In reply to coolbert:

Aha! Perfect for thin cracks on soft sandstone:
https://www.alpkit.com/products/knitted-nuts

 flaneur 01 Jan 2015
In reply to coolbert:

The Aliens are a good but outdated design. Fixe (the manufacturers) are now selling a new, better version in the US for the equivalent of £42.
http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/cch-aliens/
Pricing them at £50 despite the cost-efficiencies of direct sales seems optimistic to say the least.

The rest of the gear is similarly not close to state-of-the-art without being particularly competetively priced.
 Graham 03 Jan 2015
In reply to flaneur:

Nothing to get excited about there... The Fixe Aliens are shit - the Totem Basics are a great improvement on the original design.
 1poundSOCKS 03 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:

> The Fixe Aliens are shit - the Totem Basics are a great improvement on the original design.

I thought they were pretty similar, apart from the blue that has internal cam springs (although the Fixe blue is stronger I believe).
 Graham 03 Jan 2015
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I think the Totem basics have a much smoother action, better build quality, nicer cam lobes are more comfortable in the hand... whereas the Fixe aliens are a fairly faithful replication of the original aliens. Totem just does it better.

 1poundSOCKS 03 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:

> much smoother action
> more comfortable in the hand

Can't say I've noticed much difference. I have Totems (because the blue had a narrower head), but I did look at both.

> nicer cam lobes

Nicer?
 henwardian 04 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:

Except that Totem don't do a black size.
I'm happy to believe that the camming action is smoother and the trigger wires, being composed of lots of strands of wire, will not bend out of shape like the original alien trigger wires. The handling though, I can't believe is any different. Both the ring and the trigger look exactly the same as my aliens.
 Graham 04 Jan 2015
In reply to henwardian:

The original Totem Basics were, admittedly, not that different from the CCH or Fixe Aliens although they did have a nicer action. The current generation, however are much nicer - have a look on the totem website.
 beardy mike 04 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:
Agreed. And I picked up the new ones at the Friedrichafen stand and I can't say I thought they were an improvement. If anything I thought they'd made sticking plaster improvements rather than bringing a classic up to speed like totem have...
 Offwidth 05 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:
I like the alien single stem design to deal with near sideways on pockets and peg flares (especially on granite slabs) where twist flexibility in the plane of the cam and the narrowness of the single stem both can be useful. I know the totem is better for a very poor placement (on 2 lobes only) and for good placements (where frankly you are comparing excellent with even more excellent) but aliens go smaller so are you really sure they are that much better better overall? I havent tried the new totems but I do have wild country zeros (which go really small) but I find them, partly due to the extra stiffness and the stem construction, much less useful than my aliens and also they haven't held up at all well to the bashing they get in a gear rack (and they on go on my rack very rarely... maybe 1/50 of the time my aliens are)

In any case the differences for most climbers is marginal and they should be buying cheaper standard cams.

For alien fans, Desert Rock Sports in Vegas had offsets in stock last month. http://desertrocksportslv.com. These are amazing for aid on flared peg scars and not bad for trad lead gear in peg scars either.
Post edited at 11:24
 BnB 05 Jan 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

I have Totem Basics and Zeros and the difference in quality (and sense of reassurance) is huge. And, believe me, I need lots of reassurance
 Offwidth 05 Jan 2015
In reply to BnB:

What do they offer to those who already have aliens. So far I see little reason to replace my aliens before they break and Id like to be convinced the wires in the side of the stem flex in the plane of the cam as well as an alien stem does for angled placements in peg scars (I guess they do or the likes of AK wouldnt be saying they are better than aliens).
 BnB 05 Jan 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

I don't have Aliens so I can't help you there!!
 Graham 06 Jan 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

You are confusing the Totem cam (radical new design) with the Totem Basic cam (essentially an alien update).
 Offwidth 06 Jan 2015
In reply to Graham:

I think I have partly lost myself now with the variations so I will try to be clearer. I mainly climb in the UK on all rock types and on my overseas holidays most of my climbing is on granite. I am an alien fan having used them extensively for well over a decade with them being a main part of my normal climbing rack and having held a few falls. I have one recent fixe replacement that seems to be OK but I'll obviously have to wait to see how well it holds up to use. I've been amazed how well the original aliens have performed and held up despite negative reports on safety and longevity. They can get stiff but a bit of oil solves that, like it does with most cams. The other main cam I use is the camelot where my only complaint is the trigger wires usually need replacing every other year.

The new basic to me still looks like (I've never used one on rock) an updated alien but with harder metal lobes (why, as the soft metal seems to bed and be an advantage of the alien?) and a slightly narrower head and reported better build and action (hard for me to believe this is significant as my aliens have worked and lasted so well). Yet you describe fixe aliens as shit above (why? have you used them extensively?) when all I see is an excellent cam and a possibly better cam in the basic that as yet I cant judge properly.

New Totem cams (not the basic) are an interesting redesign I also havent yet used on rock but might well consider to replace my larger aliens or smaller camelots, partly as they can hold on two lobes but I need to try them to see if they hold pins scars on granite slabs as well as my aliens do.
 IainWhitehouse 06 Jan 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

> The new basic to me still looks like (I've never used one on rock) an updated alien but with harder metal lobes (why, as the soft metal seems to bed and be an advantage of the alien?)

Why indeed. Totem are not that daft. I'm not sure where you got that idea. For Totem Basics they use 6061-T6 aluminum alloy - exactly the same as the original Aliens.

The Totem Cam uses a conventional harder alloy - Totem tried it with the softer alloy but the outward force generated by the cam was so great that the cams got mashed too easily and holding power with the harder alloy was still greater than the basic.
 Offwidth 06 Jan 2015
In reply to IainWhitehouse:

My apologies I missed that. It does however give even more reason to be confused how one cam is 'shit' if its near identical to another.
Alpjay 22 Jan 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

We have the new Alien cams coming for the end of the month - so anyone unsure, you're welcome to pop by and have a look

- Jay
Alpkit

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