I just got back from a short trip to Taiwan where my partner and I climbed at Long Dong (North East corner of Taiwan about 1.5 hours by bus from Taipei). I've only climbed in a few different countries but so far Long Dong has been one of the best venues I've ever visited. Why...?
1. Excellent: rock, crag condition, climate, selection of routes (over 500 from USA 5.5 to 5.14 although the balance tips in favour of 5.10 to 5.11 routes from a quick observation)
2. Really friendly climbers, both locals and ex-pat community
3. Ease of experience - day to day life in Taiwan. Non Chinese speakers are fortunate enough to be granted good grace by the Taiwanese, so lots of signs are in English and lots of people have learnt English too. Taiwan is a little cheaper for most things and food/transport is incredibly cheap. We were given discounts on multiple things from Taxi rides to clothing and climbing shoes.
I've linked in the helpful website we used to get lots of info. We got hold of the amazing guidebook. My partner is Japanese and found some additional information online posted by other climbers. Some of it was useful and some of it was misleading. I searched a bit on here and didn't find much so I thought I would post just in case anyone needs an update. The logbook guide here shows the site but no route/access info is online.
I've had a long break from climbing. I actually thought I'd hung my shoes up for good due to shoulder injuries. I'm still rehabilitating but after a trip to Thailand last year (I lead just one route!) and this recent two day stint in Taiwan I am so stoked to be climbing again. I managed a ground up ascent of a 5.10b which puts me almost back where I was before. I took one rest but hey...... I'm happy.
