UKC

Anyone have experience of using ice screws shorter than 10cm?
Mainly intereated if they are useful for Scottish routes around grade VI-VII. Also curious if there any options other than the E-Climb KLAU size 0 (6cm) or getting existing screws cut down via www.icescrewsharpening.com in the US?

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

I have used super-stubbies - only in the US though. I can't say they were confidence inspiring - but nothing in ice that thin is going to make you feel all cozy inside. They placed just as well as longer screws - whoever made them did a very good job. The ones I used were cut down from BD screws. If I still lived in upstate NY (where we get a lot of thin but well bonded ice) I'd probably have one on my rack.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

I used a few stubbies on the Orion Face and Zero Gully. I think they were no more than 6 cm in length. My climbing partner had brought them back from the States, though can't remember the make.

On the thinner sections I used them on I thought they were OK and using them meant not having to tie off longer screws. There was always the thought, "Well at least they'll slow me down a bit". They are best treated as marginal gear, just like any other marginal gear.

I would definitely use them again and carry 2 or 3 along with a standard ice rack.

Cheers,

Rich.

In reply to Richard and Graham: Many thanks guys, you've answered my first question and confirmed my suspicion that it would be sensible to add a couple to my rack.
I now just need to work out how to get hold of some...