UKC

Moving on to sport climbing

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 FergalM 08 Jan 2015
How hard is sport climbing compared to indoor lead climbing? I have just started leading indoors, is it feasible to organize a sport climbing trip to Portland in the summer (7 months away)? Any suggestions of easy routes?
 Oceanrower 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:
It's feasable to organise an outdoor climbing trip next week (weather depending), never mind 7 months away!

The only real difference is getting your gear back from the top after you've done the climb.

If you know anyone who's climbed outdoors they will be able to teach you that in a few minutes. Unfortunately, having watched it, I wouldn't recommend the BMC TV video.

If you're going to start on Portland, I'd keep away from the easy stuff at The Cuttings. Add at least 2 grades for polish!

Fallen Slab Arette at Blacknor South is a must. Only 3+ but one of the best climbs on the island.

Your profile is a little blank. What wall do you normally climb at? If you're anywhere near me, I'll be happy to show you.
 stp 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

There are definite differences and its more dangerous.

Some things to consider: harder to find routes, the protection might not always be good so you need to be aware of bad gear, rockfall is a real possibility (I was almost wiped out last year when the guy I was belaying somehow dislodged an entire ledge), some parts are tidal, sometimes the rock is affected by moisture.

Climbing on outdoor rock is likely to feel much harder if you've never done it before. It tends to be less obvious and there are far more potential holds so you have more choice which can be confusing. Expect to start with lower grades and build up as you get used to it. However grade for grade outdoor routes tend to be less strenuous, often with good rests. Learning where you can rest is another thing that indoor walls aren't so good at teaching you. You need to place your own quickdraws (and get them out afterwards). If you get only halfway up a route you need to know how you'll get down without leaving gear behind. And if you get to the top you need to know how to thread the anchors as often there's no karabiner to clip into.

Finally of course there's no guarantee that there will be anyone to help you should you get into difficulties. So you need to be able to work things out in such an event.

Despite the above its perfectly feasible to do. Just go with eyes wide open, use your common sense. Read a 'rock' climbing book or two first to get an overview of these things and should be fine.

 Dandan 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

Despite STP's frankly frightening description of sport climbing, I would suggest you get outside as soon as possible! If you are anywhere near me or can meet me there then like Oceanrower i'd be happy to take you out on the rock and show you the few extra bits and bobs that you need to know on top of your indoor experience.
What sort of grades do you climb? If you are leading I guess you are into the 6's?
 Jon Stewart 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

It's easy, an idiot could do it and many do. I say that not as a dig at sport climbers (honest!) the same can be said of trad. Have some confidence, get stuck in! Just don't do anything daft and hurt yourself.
 solomonkey 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

just don't wait till your trip to get outdoors , just pick any sports venue with a few easy routes to practice lowering off then once you've done a few you'll be fine wherever you go , also you might find a clip stick handy for clipping the first bolt on any dodgy looking staring moves .
As for easy routes, you'll be on to harder stuff within 7 months but there's plenty of easy routes to warm up on
 jezb1 08 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

Make sure you learn how to thread the top bolts / lower off in a safe and efficient way.

Get on it! Portland is a great year round venue! Had a couple of great days in Dorset in December.
 will moy 09 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

What Jez said. Rigging the lower off's is the main difference to leading indoors. Make sure you know how to do this safely. The bolt spacing maybe a little bigger than you're used to indoors but mostly well bolted on Portland.

Get cranking! Dorset is one of the best year round venues. T-shirt days in January.
 jkarran 09 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:
It's more than feasible, it's easy.

You'll have to learn how to lower off safely (good articles on this website and elsewhere). You'll want to have some ideas for getting up or down when you've bitten off more than you can chew (easy at Portland with the smooth staples). It's Portland, you'll probably want helmets. A good guidebook will get you to the crags. Start with easy stuff described as worthwhile or starred then look around and move on to what inspires you.

Reading the route is very different outdoors, limestone can really hide the holds in a sea of flat grey, it takes a while to get a feel for which shapes/features tend to be worth checking behind/under/over for holds and which tend to be blind slopers. Chances are this will frustrate you initially so having some basic redpointing skills already developed will get you up those that spit you off because you're missing the holds.

Clipsticks are always a nice thing to have though Portland's bolting is was pretty good if memory serves.
jk
Post edited at 11:38
 Bulls Crack 09 Jan 2015
In reply to will moy:


> Get cranking! Dorset is one of the best year round venues. T-shirt days in January.

One day I may experience one of these ''T-shirt' days in January'. It feel lucky if I get them in Summer!
 jsmcfarland 09 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

google "how to clean a sport climb" That's pretty much the main thing you will need to know, as well has having a spare crab or maillon (you can get them from banafingers/rockrun/V12 i think) to lower off from a bolt if you can't get any further up a sport climb and are giving up.

Otherwise just look at a few 'how to' articles etc and you are good to go really, as long as you are sensible. If in doubt, ask someone or get some instruction
 Oujmik 09 Jan 2015
In reply to Famport:

My very limited sport experience tells me that you should expect it to be hard! The increased complexity and slightly increased danger of outdoor sport climbing can really knock your grade back - especially when leading. One of things I've found is that whilst you can happily fall off an F4/5 indoor route with only the danger of a friction burn from a protruding jug, routes at this grade outside often have ledges or other features intermingled with more technical moves which makes falling considerably less appealing. Personally I find this really undermines my confidence, but I'm improving gradually.

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