UKC

So out for a dog walk today in North Pembrokeshire along the coast, and I spotted a new crag, it looks like it has a lot of potential, plenty of gear on the climb, and it not too hard, I spotted 4 or 5 obvious routes that look worth climbing, and I'm sure better climbers than I could find more again.

It is covered with lichen that would need cleaning, and it could do with a belay stake at the top.

I've never found my own crag before, just climbed what's in the book, but this particular one looks too cool not to. However I am concerned about my own actions ecologically, is there someone I can check with to make sure it's cool to develop?

I don't know much about lichens, it's the type that I call old mans pubes, it's kinda bluey green fuzz, not sure of the real name for it, but I understand some lichens are more important than others. Is there a list of lichens that are protected?

As for the belay stake it needs at the top is it just a case of taking a bit of rebar and a sledgehammer and putting it in myself, or do I ask the BMC to do it? Are there liability issues? Who owns the land on the sea side of the coast path, is it the national park?

Finally, once all this is sorted out and the crag is developed, how do I go about getting the routes known for others to climb, do I call up the guy who wrote the local guidebook, or do the BMC keep a list somewhere.

If someone could answer these questions I've got I'd be happy to follow all advice, I just figured I'd ask before doing anything on my own, I'm keen to do the work to develop the crag and to do the first ascents of the routes I've spotted, but I wouldn't like to commit any massive faux-pas or anything like that, I've only been climbing a couple of years, and while I'm keen to keep within the climbing ethics, I could do with a friendly point in the right direction of what those ethics actually are. I don't like to ask so many questions, but I'd rather do things properly.

Also which drill is best to use to drill for the bolts? (I'm really, really just kidding!)

In reply to Happeuss:

The front of the new north pembroke guidebook is probably a good resource. It contains some info about local ecology and most likely has contact details for a few organisations you could talk to about the crag in question. You could also check that your crag is in fact new, there's a lot of crags out there that have been climbed on and subsequently abandoned.

The BMC had some nice stakes made up a while ago, you could give them a ring and see if they've got any left. Otherwise a large piece of metal and a proportionally large hammer will do the job.

Once youve done the routes you want to just write it up on UKC (perhaps draw a quick topo if youre feeling keen) and send a link off to the BMC. There's probably an email address for the pembroke area guidebook author on their website somewhere.

In reply to remus:
Speak to the BMC.

Access isn't necessarily straightforward (access land rights specifically exclude sea cliffs) and placing permanent stakes is even more of a potential issue.

The landowner and possibly Natural Resources Wales (formerly CCW) may need to be contacted before development / 'gardening' but the BMC should be able to guide you on this.

The Pembrokeshire Environmental Charter group might be a good local source of info / advice too : http://www.pembrokeshirecoastalforum.org.uk/projects/pembrokeshire-outdoor-...

In reply to Happeuss:

Good work on wanting to do things in the right way.

In reply to Timmd:

Sorry, meant to say ^^ that too!

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Spoke to Elfyn Jones at the BMC and he's told me to speak to either Steve Quinton who done the North Pembs guidebook, or to the North Pembs park Ranger. I think I've got the number now for a Richard Vaughn who's a park Ranger, but no answer as yet, and I haven't been able to find any contact details for Steve Quinton as of yet, but I'll see what the ranger man says when I speak to him.

Thank you all for your replies, I'll keep this thread updated with any news if you are interested.