UKC

Khan Tengri - North Side

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 steveej 09 Jan 2015
Anyone done this from the North side?

Any recommendations for an agent to sort logistics and base camp support?

Approach from Kazakhstan or Kyrgystan? any advantages/disadvantages for each?

Cheers
 Simon4 09 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

Yes, but a long time ago.

It is hard to see how you would approach from Kyrgystan, but it may be possible.

Be warned, the weather in the Tien Shan is frequently very bad, Khan Tengri tends to throw a vast cloud plume to the east, like a great ocean liner.

We initially tried the Kuzmin route on the East of the North face, but were forced off it for various reasons, not least an injury and the weakness of the party.

Feel free to contact me directly, for whatever my pretty old information is worth.
 Damo 10 Jan 2015
In reply to Simon4:

> It is hard to see how you would approach from Kyrgystan, but it may be possible.

If you want to attempt Pik Pobeda, but avoid the suicidal south side route on KT, you can get a helo from the BC on South Inychek over to the north side BC and attempt the northern route, so long as you have a Kazakh visa etc. Not many do that, but it can be done.
 Simon4 10 Jan 2015
In reply to Damo:

Ah, I see what you mean. It would be a very odd way of doing things though, rather than approaching by land from Kazakh, also very chancy relying on flying over Khan Tengri (though I have, amazingly, seen one of those beasts of helicopters doing just that - I thought it was above the theoretical altitude ceiling for helicopters).

Agree about the South Inlychyk route, I have only looked down it and also at the towering cornices/seracs on Chapayev peak hunkering over it.
 Tim Sparrow 10 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

Did it in '97 with a traverse over Mamronya Stena (Marble Wall) to access the N Inylchek. Adventurous!
Simon Yates would be the man to contact for access details.
 Martin M 12 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

Went a couple of years ago to the North side via Kyrgzstan using:
http://www.itmc.centralasia.kg/en/tours/khan-tengri-peak-6995m

They were very helpful. Flights can be had to Bishkek via Ukrainian air and Turkish.

As Simon mentioned the weather can get bad, greatly elevates the avalanche risk on the mountain.

Hope this helps.
 Mr. Lee 12 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

Tried the South side many years ago when not really having a clue about anything. Lots of avalanche risk off Chapayev, which has some massive cornices directly over a section of the route. The exposed section couldn't be avoided due to the only passible section of glacier being on the most exposed side. I wouldn't recommed the route. Did it with a bunch of people I didn't know prior. Trip Duration wasn't really long enough either, given the weather can shut things down quickly. Not surprisingly I failed. If the North is like the South then there will be a number of commercial base camps. There might for example be 10 agencies offering BC and helicopter packages but they'll just be two or three commercial BCs and one daily chartered helicopter. Many of the operators are therefore just agents who book your flight and services with one of the BCs. Btw my helicopter out of BC crashed immediately after take-off sue to being overloaded but maybe I was just unlucky...
 Simon4 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Mr. Lee:
When it came to dismantle base camp on the North side, which was when we were leaving, the helo kept coming and going. So I accosted the head Russian and demanded to know "Kazbiek, when do we go out?" He said "maybe 5 helicopter trips or 6", so I said "we would like to go in the next one" - "very difficult, very difficult".

So the next one comes in, and Julie, the only girl in our party, is shoved into the cockpit, while the rest of us are told to cower down around the glacier while it takes off. Just at the last moment, when we are all burying our faces in our rucksacks against the massive downdraft, I look up to see Kazbiek waving to me to get aboard. I run to each of our team members and hit them on the shoulder, pointing and shouting "GO!!!". Finally, I am pulled aboard and into the all glass fronted cockpit to join Julie. The machine struggles to get airborne, being desperately overloaded at 4200m, so the pilot pulls the throttle far through the red line so it manages to struggle 3 feet into the air. This might not be too bad, but the glacier is covered with hummocks, and we manage to pass the first only to drop into the hole in front of the next. Somehow we creep over this and fly on down the North Inylchik glacier.

The glacier bed gradually falls below us as it gets lower, and Julie and I begin to feel a bit more comfortable. Up to the point that is, where it stops in mid air and turns sharp right and heads straight for the towering rock walls of the surrounding mountain ridge, which we are clearly far too low to get across, nor can we possibly gain enough altitude to clear. Finally I spot a tiny col, about 30 feet below the rest of the ridge and think "no, oh no! He's not going to .... surely not .... its impossible!". Julie and I cling together in the midst of all that glass, with our impending horrible death being far too clearly visible - we will be dashed against the rock wall and fall in fiery splinters, body parts and helicopter fragments to the glacier floor.

By some miracle we scrape across it and then we are dropping steeply toward the roadhead at Karakara, 2000m below the basecamp.

As the sound of the ride of the Valkyries fades from my ears, the pilot lines up to the concrete landing pad having massively more lift now due to the lower altitude, neatly turns the copter and puts it tidily down, sweating profusely and shaking uncontrollably. I don't speak Russian, but he then shouts what is clearly a stream of the foulest abuse possible (and that is very foul in Russian so I am told), in the direction of Kazbiek, roughly along the lines of "don't you ever f****** ask me to do that or anything like it again, you f****** ******* ***".
Post edited at 14:39
 Mr. Lee 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Simon4:

That is a worryingly similar experience. With my case the pilot tried to take off but the helicopter immediately sunk and clipped the tail rota. Then it went into a crazy spin. About 8 people with minor burns of various degrees I remember but everybody largely ok amazingly. The pilot seemed to be completely out of the picture as to how many things and people were loaded aboard. It seemed to be down to the man in the back who just waved everybody on. A bit like getting a bus in rush hour.
 edek_w 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Simon4:

My memories of the flight (base camp on the North side 2004) are very similar. But the pilot was drinking vodka in cockpit with his 3 friends. During the flight of course
 Simon4 12 Jan 2015
In reply to edek_w:

Well I had rather assumed that things had improved somewhat, clearly not. Elf and Safety does not rate highly in the Wild, Wild East, as anyone who has flown into an airport considered too dangerous by Aeroflot will assure you.

I recall a couple of other dangerous incidents, one of which happened to someone else, one to me. Quite recently I was at a lecture about the Caucasus from both sides, i.e. from Russia and from Georgia. Due to very high levels of tension between the 2, the borders, even in the high mountains in Winter, are very actively guarded. The Western party went up into a high frontier valley for a high camp, not noticing at first that there was a Russian border post directly overlooking their campsite, with 8 Russian border guards fully tooled up with AK 47s, grenades and suchlike. The guards fairly soon noticed the foreigners, unsurprising as they were in full view and as the evening drew in, they headed for the British tents on mass. The Brits assumed that they were going to be arrested or possibly shot, but actually the situation was far more dangerous than that, and the guards were each equipped with a much more frightening weapon.

They were cold and bored, having spent all Winter at 3200m in the snow, so each was carrying a full bottle of vodka to drink with the guests, and a gruesome lifestory to recount. At first, the British visitors were reproached vociferously for trying to sip the vodka shots, rather than gulp them down. Afterwards .... well they don't remember what happened afterwards.

When we got back down to the roadhead in the Tien Shan, the Russians and Kazakhs held an end of season party. Up to then, I had thought that all these tales of Russian drinking were vicious slander, as we had seen no sign of it. But on that night, they made up for previous restraint in spades. They had setup a dance floor with very loud Western pop music and fairly odd Russian imitations of it being played continuously. We were repeatedly asked to dance by rather formidable Russian ladies - well I say asked, refusal was not remotely countenanced and we were more or less physically thrown onto the dance floor.

Having got us there, they seemed to rather loose interest, it was wallflowers that seemed to offend them rather than any real desire to see visitors actually "dancing". So I was able to escape to the next room, where the helicopter pilots were to be found, drinking freely and deeply . On the ground, at least, they seemed to be safer than the tender arms of the maidens in the other room, so I stayed there. This was shortly after the collapse of the Soviet Union, so one of the pilots proceeded to interrogate me about why should he not be allowed to work in the North Sea, on the oil platforms, assuming that this would pay him in gold bricks. I didn't have the heart to tell him that the safety standards on MTB 8 helicopters would probably not have passed muster in 19th century British coalmines.

One member of our party, Julie's then boyfriend, now husband was being violently ill, at both ends and with truly bad stomach cramps, so she desperately implored me to help him. It gives you an idea of how frantic the party with the Russians was that it was actually a relief to have to deal with a vomiting, shitting, possibly dying climbing partner rather than hope to survive a full-on Russian party.
In reply to steveej:

I stayed in the Kyrgyz BC last year doing Chapaev.

They do weigh all the bags at the helipad on the way out but not on the way back bizarrely (you don't go with the same party andyone just gets thrown on the chopper)

Whe we reached camp 2 on chapaev there was a chopper crashed near the summit where a rescue attempt has gone wrong the week previous and downwash had sent the rescue rope back up into the rotor blades.

Gnarly ride but great fun.
 Tim Sparrow 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Simon4:
Hah! This was all too common I think. In '95, our exit was very similar. Just made it airborne. Spiralled up and up to gain height in a massively overloaded chopper, going what seemed like far too close to rock walls for comfort. A kiwi chopper pilot was on board as a passenger .... he was visibly alarmed and stated that it is unusual to get closer than 2 rotor widths to cliffs ..... I was lying under the engine, on top of all the luggage and half way back it began to emanate a most unpleasant whine and grind. When the beast thankfully landed it didn't take off for a week.
Remember arriving at the base camp and being welcomed with a bottle of vodka from the doctor who noted our altitude headaches. "Drink this, is good for you!"
What a place. Bloody mad!
And as for Kazbek - mouth full of gold and a chest like a barrel. Head madman!
Post edited at 20:39
 Simon4 12 Jan 2015
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

Yes, Russian (or Kazakh) helicopters make Khan Tengri North face seem positively safe by comparison.

Which it isn't by any other criteria.
OP steveej 14 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

thanks guys, all really useful stuff.

should be a fun trip!
 Mr. Lee 14 Jan 2015
In reply to steveej:

On a more positive note the BC sauna, constructed on the glacier at nearly 4000m, was something else
 Tim Sparrow 14 Jan 2015
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Saunas ..... (Banya) I recall the weird feeling of standing naked on a glacier in the pitch dark at 4000m, slightly pissed, and tipping a bucket of melt water over my head. And then going back in for more despite the big hairy Rusky wanting to thrash the Brits with the birch twigs .....

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