UKC

Montserrat, Spring 2015 - Advice?

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 StevieJ 14 Jan 2015
All,
I'm trying to organise a climbing trip to mainland Europe for up to 10 people this coming Spring. I've got some contacts in the Montserrat area so purely based on convenience & logistics, this is looking like an option.
Only problem is: I haven't got a clue what the climbing's like. Any advice??
Are there plenty of 5's & 6's available?
Other than bolted, is there also access to Trad?
Any access issues ? (nesting birds, wildlife etc...)
Any other comments welcomed...!
Thanks v much in Advance
 dunnyg 14 Jan 2015
In reply to StevieJ:
Looking to head there at a similar a time, so far I have worked out:

There is lots of easy stuff
There is trad as well as sport (not sure what sort of grade the trad is)
There are access issues to some of it, inolving birds, banned untill june I think. Dont know exactly where though.
Some routes are nicely bolted, some of them are scary.
OP StevieJ 14 Jan 2015
In reply to dunnyg:

I'm hopefully having a chat with a local expat on Saturday, so I'll deffo ask about the access issues. I'll keep you info'd if you like. Thanks
 dunnyg 14 Jan 2015
In reply to StevieJ:
That would be grand. Any recomendations for really easy nicely bolted multipitch would be really useful, along with what kind of ropes are best (length/halfs etc..) cheers!
http://blogdelguillem.blogspot.fr/search/label/Aa%29%20Montserrat%20Central

Has been useful, has lots of easy multipitch. Is in catalan though which might be a hinderence. Gives some idea of the climbing.
Post edited at 09:46
 Morgan Woods 14 Jan 2015
In reply to StevieJ:
I've only done a few days there but here are my thoughts:

- there are lots of good 5's and 6's but things can be a bit hard to find even with the guide so any local knowledge would really help but I did find this:
http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/e_cuadernos/CT_67/pdf/CT_67.pdf
- it is all conglomerate which takes some getting used to with the single pitch routes being quite pumpy
- there may be trad but why bother when the sport is so good especially when it is likely to be either obscure or have dodgy pro, the good obvious cracks and features are bolted anyway
- If you have the time I would split the week between Montserrat and some of the Villanova or Terradets crags, perhaps staying at the refugio in Cellers, see here for a good rundown:
http://www.lleidaclimbs.com/p/recommendations-v-to-6c.html
Post edited at 11:38
OP StevieJ 14 Jan 2015
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Cheers Morgan. Great food for thought there. I'll have a look at the links. Cheers

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