UKC

Just wondering if anybody has any intel on Beinn Bhan ice routes for the weekend? Was thinking it might have had a bit more freeze thaw than higher areas and might also be a little less avalanche prone? This could all just be wishful thinking though.....

Any info much appreciated.

In reply to Robertgiddy:

You are probably right.

In reply to Robertgiddy:

Poachers is not yet in, so it seems unlikely that Beinn Bhan routes would be in given that they are lower down and nearer to the sea than the Liathach corries.

In reply to Robertgiddy:

Wishful thinking.....

In reply to andyinglis:

"Wishful thinking" = perhaps the most powerful weapon in the winter climber's armoury...

In reply to Wry Gob:

Yes!,

but why am I working on Monday?

In reply to rogerwebb:

I would say that's just poor planning Roger. Otherwise I might have said "maybe see you up Northwest"

Next week looks like one to be off work, whatever the cost...

In reply to Wry Gob:

easy to say... I had set on my career path before falling in love with Scottish winter climbing- teaching is a shit job for this life long love affair! I don't need 6 weeks in summer...

In reply to French Erick:

There is an awful lot of flu/cold bugs doing the rounds at the moment....cough cough!!

In reply to French Erick:

Move to the Southern hemisphere?

In reply to French Erick:


Yes, I find it tough only having 5 weeks holiday between mid December and mid April.


I somehow reluctantly manage to make good use of it though.....

In reply to Wry Gob:

Monday is Der Tag.

I will be defending the indefencible, I hope you have more fun.

In reply to Robert Durran:
** thread highjack**
Come now Robert, you should know better. Winter conditions are fickle. I am not a dry tooler. I should be climbing tomorrow because potentially it is the best possible day in many years in the NW. Instead, I'll be carrying on with f*cking prelims. If I could choose my days I would make better use than blocked weeks. 2 weeks at Christmas of which at least 3 days are completely untouchable (Xmas...).

I don't deny I get a lot of holidays. I am not asking for more. I just find that my chosen career- and I like it- is somewhat not very compatible with my winter climbing aspirations.

Of course, I could pull a sickie... but defo not on a prelim day, and almost (never say never) completely against my principles.

I did have a very good day out this weekend though!

**end of thread highjack**

I wasn't on Beinn Bhan but on slioch. My guess is that non ice routes would have been in.

In reply to French Erick:


Yes, I do agree that fixed school holidays, however long, can be frustrating when the best weather/conditions do not coincide with them (or when you miss out on a good climbing trip that others plan during term time), but how many other people have the option of taking off days at short notice to take advantage of those fickle conditions anyway?

Overall, we probably shouldn't really complain, though Christmas should definitely be moved to a wet weekend in November (and certainly not plonked right in the middle of a holiday) and school holidays should be concentrated in February and May/June to optimise the chances of maximum climbing days.



I know it is a lot further south but at a similar height turf was only patchily frozen on the Cobbler today.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Not to worry Robert,
I have seldom seen such conditions on a sandstone crag. It even looked wintry looking up
And it's unclimbable without solid turf... it was stonking some of the best I have ever pulled on!

In reply to French Erick:


Sounds fantastic!

In reply to French Erick:

There were brilliant conditions on Liathach on Saturday. Loads of unconsolidated snow, so loads of wading to get to the crags and loads of sweeping once you got there--but lovely, lovely hooking, brilliant gear, and some good ice too.

Not that we got very far. We were aiming to do the whole ridge but we got kind of absorbed in what was in front of us. Which seemed to need more pro than I'd brought--I'd stripped the rack right back in the interests of going light and fast. This was a mistake... Still, we abbed off and retreated perfectly happily, and were back in the Kinlochewe Bunkhouse for tea and medals well before last orders.

We drove past Beinn Bhan yesterday. It looked very, very in.

In reply to French Erick:
And could you see the sea? How long did you take all round?
Well done both of you!

In reply to Lone Rider:

Great views at times. 15 hours car to car.

In reply to French Erick:

I spent 6.5 hours walking in, 4 hours climbing and 6 hours walking out. Does this mean that i was really going hillwalking?

James e

In reply to Sophie G.:


No medals surely if you back off the route?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Don't we get anything for knowing when it's time to chicken out? Because it was. It definitely was

In reply to French Erick:

sorry that's 17hours back to back. I'm a linguist not an accountant.
I'd be interested to know what the conditions on Quinag were? Someone could tell us even if anonymous. Thta's not a crag you hear from often.

In reply to French Erick:

Great call on the conditions, Glad it wasn't a disappointment!

I suspect Quinag, Cul Mor possibly Suilven would be pretty good. I was on Skye today (working unfortunately) and it was -3 when I left at 6pm and -11 at Achnasheen.

In reply to rogerwebb:

Great call on the conditions yourself, Roger.
I think there'll be some breaking news soon.
Jason

In reply to French Erick:

Nice one Erick! Very jealous!

In reply to Robertgiddy:

I didn't see you on Sunday, probably wise. Too much snow insulating the turf (unlike Slioch being west facing). Good potential but not quite there.

In reply to French Erick:

Stunning achievement, Erick and Rob. I am profoundly jealous

http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=4950

Now I want to go there too...

I think when I do I am going to walk a tent up to the Abhainn an Fhasaigh the night before.