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Hello Fit Club people. Nick asked me to post the below on his behalf, as he's currently dodging avalanches or something in Scotland. Maybe I should join in with you all sometime, it seems like quite a fun idea...
______________________
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=606560
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=ZT8A6Y7MwnA&
I'm going to Scotland this weekend so here's something seasonal!
Last week's posters:
flopsicle - Good volume session there. Just remember to keep focussed on the technique when you're doing that kind of session.
AJM - Thanks for organising Portland. Did you stick to the plan this week?
Mutl3y - I recall you had a pretty ambitious weight-loss goal this year. Just remember to give your body the fuel it needs for the volume of training.
Exile - Has winter started for you yet? Promising forecast for this weekend.
Tyler - What's the verdict on the ankle?
Nick - Skin is important - look after it you numpty!
mrchewy - Nice to meet you at the weekend. 11 days with no rest is a lot, I know I start to suffer after that sort of time on.
mattrm - On plan this week?
The Ex-Engineer - How's the new set at the wall?
williemiller - Did you defeat the "nemesis fingerathon"?
hms - I have a phobia of greyed-out entries on UKC (think we've discussed it before). I got over it a bit by collecting more of them...
Dandan82 - Great news on the elbow! How's the finger coming on?
Ally Smith - Thanks for hosting us at the weekend! Any plans to get back on Fighting Torque?
Ian Rock - Good consistency.
Creedence - Did you manage to increase the ARC time? Remember, that should respond pretty quickly to training so when it starts to plateau it's time to move on to something else.
mbh - Thanks for translating to min/km for me! 5000ft is still a lot of ascent over 50 miles.
Jeriqo - Getting back into it. I expect a physical job can really take it's toll on training volume.
Humperdink - Take care of those hamstrings! Both working again now?
Kevster - Nice to meet you! Any chance of getting back to HoM while you remember it well?
Just Tintin - Trapeze sounds fun. I'm not surprised you have good basics as a climber.
Well, I'm up in Scotland at the moment - thanks to Emily for posting in my absence. I'll try not to make a habit of it. Also sorry to those who posted to week 408 after Thursday.
______________________
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=606560
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=ZT8A6Y7MwnA&
I'm going to Scotland this weekend so here's something seasonal!
Last week's posters:
flopsicle - Good volume session there. Just remember to keep focussed on the technique when you're doing that kind of session.
AJM - Thanks for organising Portland. Did you stick to the plan this week?
Mutl3y - I recall you had a pretty ambitious weight-loss goal this year. Just remember to give your body the fuel it needs for the volume of training.
Exile - Has winter started for you yet? Promising forecast for this weekend.
Tyler - What's the verdict on the ankle?
Nick - Skin is important - look after it you numpty!
mrchewy - Nice to meet you at the weekend. 11 days with no rest is a lot, I know I start to suffer after that sort of time on.
mattrm - On plan this week?
The Ex-Engineer - How's the new set at the wall?
williemiller - Did you defeat the "nemesis fingerathon"?
hms - I have a phobia of greyed-out entries on UKC (think we've discussed it before). I got over it a bit by collecting more of them...
Dandan82 - Great news on the elbow! How's the finger coming on?
Ally Smith - Thanks for hosting us at the weekend! Any plans to get back on Fighting Torque?
Ian Rock - Good consistency.
Creedence - Did you manage to increase the ARC time? Remember, that should respond pretty quickly to training so when it starts to plateau it's time to move on to something else.
mbh - Thanks for translating to min/km for me! 5000ft is still a lot of ascent over 50 miles.
Jeriqo - Getting back into it. I expect a physical job can really take it's toll on training volume.
Humperdink - Take care of those hamstrings! Both working again now?
Kevster - Nice to meet you! Any chance of getting back to HoM while you remember it well?
Just Tintin - Trapeze sounds fun. I'm not surprised you have good basics as a climber.
Well, I'm up in Scotland at the moment - thanks to Emily for posting in my absence. I'll try not to make a habit of it. Also sorry to those who posted to week 408 after Thursday.
In reply to Emily:
Hello Emily / Nick
I hear you about fuel for training. For the time being my main goal is the weight, training is really just to keep in there. Only doing bouldering tho so not really training stamina. After I hit my intermediate weight goal (64kgs) I will think more about how to train as my primary. That seem a sensible plan?
M- 50 pull ups (1st time to 50!). Scored 61/84 in two laps of 5a on beastmaker. Crimp failed quick poss because of good session the day before.
T- 169 push ups. Hour of Power at works. Did all green+pink spots (F5ish) circuit. Felt weak.
W- 56 pulls
T- 180 press ups, 55 pull ups, scored 65 on beastmaker. Felt strong.
F- Works session. Did all 40 of the new pinkles circuit. Felt good.
S- full on rest day.
S- Works sesh. Did about 20-odd of the yellows (F5+/6A) but felt weak again.
Weight - down 1.2 to 69.2kgs this morning.
Priority next week - stretching and general conditioning rather than risking over use injury.
Hello Emily / Nick
I hear you about fuel for training. For the time being my main goal is the weight, training is really just to keep in there. Only doing bouldering tho so not really training stamina. After I hit my intermediate weight goal (64kgs) I will think more about how to train as my primary. That seem a sensible plan?
M- 50 pull ups (1st time to 50!). Scored 61/84 in two laps of 5a on beastmaker. Crimp failed quick poss because of good session the day before.
T- 169 push ups. Hour of Power at works. Did all green+pink spots (F5ish) circuit. Felt weak.
W- 56 pulls
T- 180 press ups, 55 pull ups, scored 65 on beastmaker. Felt strong.
F- Works session. Did all 40 of the new pinkles circuit. Felt good.
S- full on rest day.
S- Works sesh. Did about 20-odd of the yellows (F5+/6A) but felt weak again.
Weight - down 1.2 to 69.2kgs this morning.
Priority next week - stretching and general conditioning rather than risking over use injury.
In reply to Emily:
No verdict as such, I got the impression the consultant just thought it was a normal sprain and that I should haves gone to a physio instead. I did persuade him to give me some scans (MRI and ultrasound) which is good as I want a diagnosis on some long standing ailments. It looks like I might not also have plantar fasciitis but a missing fat pad on my heel. I'm never really sure when to use the word ironic but my being hampered by missing fat would certainly be a candidate for its use.
M: Nothing
T: Route session at Stockport, first one since my return where I seemed to have gone backwards
W: Nothing
T: Deadhanging. Increased hang time to 8 secs, all three sets on smallest holds were with a foot on. Pleased to have done them as I forced myself to do them after going out when normally I'd have taken the easy option. The downside is that I did them without a warm up.
F: Nothing
S: Stockport wall session, was supposed to do deadhangs but forgot, great session though. Managed one of my projects and got quite high on another. 10 tie ins
S: decided to swerve deadhangs until tomorrow after a rest day. Wasted a morning looking at YouTube vids of other people exercising. Forced myself out on the bike, first cardio since Sept because of ankle. Totally overcooked it, committed to a circular route when I should have turned around and spent the last hour crawling as my blood sugar crashed. No food, phone or money. Currently wiped out and any training effect negated by the chocolate fingers, toast and popcorn I scoffed on my return. Good news is that ankle coped better than the rest of me.
Weight still high but I expect that when I return to training now, not sure why as I don't build muscle.
> What's the verdict on the ankle?
No verdict as such, I got the impression the consultant just thought it was a normal sprain and that I should haves gone to a physio instead. I did persuade him to give me some scans (MRI and ultrasound) which is good as I want a diagnosis on some long standing ailments. It looks like I might not also have plantar fasciitis but a missing fat pad on my heel. I'm never really sure when to use the word ironic but my being hampered by missing fat would certainly be a candidate for its use.
M: Nothing
T: Route session at Stockport, first one since my return where I seemed to have gone backwards
W: Nothing
T: Deadhanging. Increased hang time to 8 secs, all three sets on smallest holds were with a foot on. Pleased to have done them as I forced myself to do them after going out when normally I'd have taken the easy option. The downside is that I did them without a warm up.
F: Nothing
S: Stockport wall session, was supposed to do deadhangs but forgot, great session though. Managed one of my projects and got quite high on another. 10 tie ins
S: decided to swerve deadhangs until tomorrow after a rest day. Wasted a morning looking at YouTube vids of other people exercising. Forced myself out on the bike, first cardio since Sept because of ankle. Totally overcooked it, committed to a circular route when I should have turned around and spent the last hour crawling as my blood sugar crashed. No food, phone or money. Currently wiped out and any training effect negated by the chocolate fingers, toast and popcorn I scoffed on my return. Good news is that ankle coped better than the rest of me.
Weight still high but I expect that when I return to training now, not sure why as I don't build muscle.
Post edited at 18:26
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Emily - hope you actually do dodge the avalanches Nick.
I did another 58 miles, not quite 5000 ft ascent and took 8 runs to do this, several of them getting to/from lifts/work, since we are now a one car household for the time being.
M - 5.1 miles around town @7:40 then later 5.3 miles of hills.
T - 6.1 miles to lift after work on trails
W -
T - 9.2 miles to lift after work trail/road @ 7:24 (4:35/km) Last 6 miles downhill!
F -3 miles from lift to work then 9.0 miles to lift after work, both with a pack, @ 7:55. Ditto.
S - 10.8 miles, first 6 @7:30-7:35 (4:40 ish/km) , then hills, 7:58 overall. Legs felt heavy
S - 10 miles on coast path and beach. Jogging along, not trying very hard, enjoying the glorious scenery (between Trevone and Bedruthan Steps on the N. Cornwall coast) , 9:20 ish.
Tomorrow I am doing 16-18 miles on the coast path (St Just - St Ives) with four people from a local running club who have all today run 10 miles faster than I ever have. Bit nervous since I have hardly ever run with other people before (when I run with my wife, like today she goes one way, and I go the other, then we meet again at the end!), but I think it should be good.
Coming up is a 20 mile coast path event (the Grizzly) end of Feb, and possibly BGR recces around the same time if I can fit in a trip to the lakes during half-term, whenever that exactly is. There's also a 44 mile coast path event (the Classic Quarter from the Lizard to Land's End) in June that I am very tempted to enter.
Thanks Emily - hope you actually do dodge the avalanches Nick.
I did another 58 miles, not quite 5000 ft ascent and took 8 runs to do this, several of them getting to/from lifts/work, since we are now a one car household for the time being.
M - 5.1 miles around town @7:40 then later 5.3 miles of hills.
T - 6.1 miles to lift after work on trails
W -
T - 9.2 miles to lift after work trail/road @ 7:24 (4:35/km) Last 6 miles downhill!
F -3 miles from lift to work then 9.0 miles to lift after work, both with a pack, @ 7:55. Ditto.
S - 10.8 miles, first 6 @7:30-7:35 (4:40 ish/km) , then hills, 7:58 overall. Legs felt heavy
S - 10 miles on coast path and beach. Jogging along, not trying very hard, enjoying the glorious scenery (between Trevone and Bedruthan Steps on the N. Cornwall coast) , 9:20 ish.
Tomorrow I am doing 16-18 miles on the coast path (St Just - St Ives) with four people from a local running club who have all today run 10 miles faster than I ever have. Bit nervous since I have hardly ever run with other people before (when I run with my wife, like today she goes one way, and I go the other, then we meet again at the end!), but I think it should be good.
Coming up is a 20 mile coast path event (the Grizzly) end of Feb, and possibly BGR recces around the same time if I can fit in a trip to the lakes during half-term, whenever that exactly is. There's also a 44 mile coast path event (the Classic Quarter from the Lizard to Land's End) in June that I am very tempted to enter.
Post edited at 20:28
It certainly does, though I wouldn't trade it in for an office job, I try and tell myself it helps as cross training
Mon - club speed session, reps of (mins) - 6, 2x3, 6, 3x2
Tue - climbing @ PYB, easy leading, getting back into it
Wed - Easy run in howling gales 4.7miles
Thu - off
Fri - 1hr easy run
Sat - 20km on the mtb
Sun - LSR 1:54
Mon - club speed session, reps of (mins) - 6, 2x3, 6, 3x2
Tue - climbing @ PYB, easy leading, getting back into it
Wed - Easy run in howling gales 4.7miles
Thu - off
Fri - 1hr easy run
Sat - 20km on the mtb
Sun - LSR 1:54
In reply to Emily:
Cheers Nick/Emily.
Short answer is "nearly".
I had a shit week at work. Missed the comp at the wall on Thursday because I didn't get home until half an hour before the wall closed. Main failure though was Wednesday, I was stressed and f*cked off so when i got to the wall and all my mates were there I just decided to screw the plan and relax and have a banter and some generic unstructured bouldering.
As a result by Friday night I was short a Boulder circuit ancap session, a fingerboard and some assisted one-armers. Such was my shame and fear of reporting abject failure to FitClub that I went and did the Boulder mileage, which was debilitating, when I got in from the crag today. So whilst I still failed in the end, it was only on a fingerboard and an assisted one-armer session, I did manage all the climbing sessions. I've got a bit more organised for home training now too so should be able to do that properly this week, fingers crossed....
As for the weekend, I made progress on lightning strike and did some other bouldering, and today I mainly flailed about climbing badly with ropes. Need to get into the Swanage style and the off balance cracks and get used to roped climbing again - too much plastic pulling.
Aerocap
Continuity - 1/1
Split continuity - 0/0
1-on-2-off - 0/0
1-on-1-off - 0/0
Ancap
Linked Boulder - 1/1
Boulder mileage - 1/1
Footless Boulder and campus hangs - 0/0
AeroPow
Capacity-Power - 0/0
Campus laddering - 0/0
Conditioning
Wide grip pullups - 1/1
Bottom pullups - 2/2
Offset pull-ups - 0/1
Fingerboard 1 - 0/1
Fingerboard 2 - 0/0
Fingerboard 3 - 0/0
Monday - bottom pullups before work. Wall after work - linked Boulder and continuity.
Tuesday - rest.
Wednesday - stressful day at work so chilled out with a non-plan general bouldering session. Good fun.
Thursday - left work at 2115. Home, food, bottom pullups, bed.
Friday - shattered. Wide grip pullups.
Saturday - cuttings boulderfield. Minor progress on lightning strike plus some other stuff
Sunday - winspit. Such poor quality movement. Need to get back into practice. Did a few 6a+s, gibbered on the sketchy 3rd clip on Red Rain (6c+) - why bolt it so you'd deck out if you fell off with slack out - dogged it, had a pathetic redpoint which failed because I had no clue where I was going. Did it in 2. I went and did a Boulder mileage session at the wall when I got home, which was suitably debilitating.
> AJM - Thanks for organising Portland. Did you stick to the plan this week?
Cheers Nick/Emily.
Short answer is "nearly".
I had a shit week at work. Missed the comp at the wall on Thursday because I didn't get home until half an hour before the wall closed. Main failure though was Wednesday, I was stressed and f*cked off so when i got to the wall and all my mates were there I just decided to screw the plan and relax and have a banter and some generic unstructured bouldering.
As a result by Friday night I was short a Boulder circuit ancap session, a fingerboard and some assisted one-armers. Such was my shame and fear of reporting abject failure to FitClub that I went and did the Boulder mileage, which was debilitating, when I got in from the crag today. So whilst I still failed in the end, it was only on a fingerboard and an assisted one-armer session, I did manage all the climbing sessions. I've got a bit more organised for home training now too so should be able to do that properly this week, fingers crossed....
As for the weekend, I made progress on lightning strike and did some other bouldering, and today I mainly flailed about climbing badly with ropes. Need to get into the Swanage style and the off balance cracks and get used to roped climbing again - too much plastic pulling.
Aerocap
Continuity - 1/1
Split continuity - 0/0
1-on-2-off - 0/0
1-on-1-off - 0/0
Ancap
Linked Boulder - 1/1
Boulder mileage - 1/1
Footless Boulder and campus hangs - 0/0
AeroPow
Capacity-Power - 0/0
Campus laddering - 0/0
Conditioning
Wide grip pullups - 1/1
Bottom pullups - 2/2
Offset pull-ups - 0/1
Fingerboard 1 - 0/1
Fingerboard 2 - 0/0
Fingerboard 3 - 0/0
Monday - bottom pullups before work. Wall after work - linked Boulder and continuity.
Tuesday - rest.
Wednesday - stressful day at work so chilled out with a non-plan general bouldering session. Good fun.
Thursday - left work at 2115. Home, food, bottom pullups, bed.
Friday - shattered. Wide grip pullups.
Saturday - cuttings boulderfield. Minor progress on lightning strike plus some other stuff
Sunday - winspit. Such poor quality movement. Need to get back into practice. Did a few 6a+s, gibbered on the sketchy 3rd clip on Red Rain (6c+) - why bolt it so you'd deck out if you fell off with slack out - dogged it, had a pathetic redpoint which failed because I had no clue where I was going. Did it in 2. I went and did a Boulder mileage session at the wall when I got home, which was suitably debilitating.
In reply to Emily:
Something weird happened to my post after an edit so I'm starting again!
Mon - 2 miles running road/hills
Tues - <1hr Climbing so did auto belay laps. F5 x10, F6a+ x 5, F6b x 11. When I do laps I try to perfect routes I can do till I'm happy with them so the focus is very much on technique. (Granted the last ten of 50 was more about getting the 50 though...).
Weds - 1 mile hills/road run
Thurs - 2.3 miles hills/road run
Fri - 3.4 miles half road half muddy woods - woods bit very steep, road hills but less steep. 2 hrs climbing, mostly hard stuff, lots of falling off!
Sat - Bit of climbing while daughter in her kids session but quite lazy as sore from Fri.
Sun - 2 miles road/hills run. 2.5 hrs climbing, mostly hard stuff but first 2 hrs roped so had belay breaks. Most of the last 30 mins was spent trying to redo a move I managed once after significant efforts but another climber started a climb where my route went so I had to bail - then could get back. It was a corner, palm bridgy, friction, get foot to hand thingy. My palm is very well exfoliated now and I never did get back where I was - although my talk through (bridgy palmy thingy) did get another climber up! Hmphhh!!
Mucho thanks for the thread too!
Something weird happened to my post after an edit so I'm starting again!
Mon - 2 miles running road/hills
Tues - <1hr Climbing so did auto belay laps. F5 x10, F6a+ x 5, F6b x 11. When I do laps I try to perfect routes I can do till I'm happy with them so the focus is very much on technique. (Granted the last ten of 50 was more about getting the 50 though...).
Weds - 1 mile hills/road run
Thurs - 2.3 miles hills/road run
Fri - 3.4 miles half road half muddy woods - woods bit very steep, road hills but less steep. 2 hrs climbing, mostly hard stuff, lots of falling off!
Sat - Bit of climbing while daughter in her kids session but quite lazy as sore from Fri.
Sun - 2 miles road/hills run. 2.5 hrs climbing, mostly hard stuff but first 2 hrs roped so had belay breaks. Most of the last 30 mins was spent trying to redo a move I managed once after significant efforts but another climber started a climb where my route went so I had to bail - then could get back. It was a corner, palm bridgy, friction, get foot to hand thingy. My palm is very well exfoliated now and I never did get back where I was - although my talk through (bridgy palmy thingy) did get another climber up! Hmphhh!!
Mucho thanks for the thread too!
In reply to Emily:
Thanks for the thread
M – Lead climbing session. 10 routes 6a – 6b+ found all the moves easy but I had to take a rest on a couple of the more sustained routes. Defo need to work on stamina
T – 10km 5:01/km. Yoga
W – Good long boulder. Ticked a problem that I had tried 20+ times
T – Another short boulder session
F – 12km 5:03/km
S – Nothing
S – 13km 5:07/km. 4x4s on the autobelay to try and work on stamina.
2015 Goals
Sport: 6c
Trad: E2
Bouldering: 6b
Indoor: f7a and font7a
1:35 half marathon
Complete a marathon
This weeks goals
40 km
3 climbing sessions with two focused on route stamina
Pick a 6c to work
Thanks for the thread
> williemiller - Did you defeat the "nemesis fingerathon"?
Yes thanks, it went first time. Didn’t manage any other of my weeks goals this week. Weather and exam pressure meant I only got three runs in and I only managed ¼ of target routes.M – Lead climbing session. 10 routes 6a – 6b+ found all the moves easy but I had to take a rest on a couple of the more sustained routes. Defo need to work on stamina
T – 10km 5:01/km. Yoga
W – Good long boulder. Ticked a problem that I had tried 20+ times
T – Another short boulder session
F – 12km 5:03/km
S – Nothing
S – 13km 5:07/km. 4x4s on the autobelay to try and work on stamina.
2015 Goals
Sport: 6c
Trad: E2
Bouldering: 6b
Indoor: f7a and font7a
1:35 half marathon
Complete a marathon
This weeks goals
40 km
3 climbing sessions with two focused on route stamina
Pick a 6c to work
In reply to AJM:
Where are you getting to on lightning strike now - I assume you've found the left heel toe?
Where are you getting to on lightning strike now - I assume you've found the left heel toe?
In reply to Emily:
Cheers nick - yeah was a few too many days but was exploring what I can actually get away with. Change of tack now.
Was really rough at the start of the week - took myself off to bed about 8pm every evening, as thought sleep might help me get over this lingering malaise from the virus I had most of December.
Fri - Picked up the new van! Well chuffed. Bought it with a 107,000 on the clock - realised on the way home, the dash was set to km. Quick fiddle with the settings and ta da... 66,000. Result! Popped to the boulder room for 1.5hr. New set, new setters. Loads more crimps this time, so I was happy. Managed a problem I'd have normally bailed on in fear of face rash and reckon there's stuff there that I can actually progress on for the next six weeks, rather than being stumped by my own weakness. Good session.
Sat - Worked. Tired after, so nice grub and a movie.
Sun - Worked. Boulder room 1hr. Stayed on the 30, 45 and roof. Didn't rest and pretty knackered by the end. Not panels I usually inhabit. Battered by the end and headed into the main room. Got on the campus rails/fingerboards to finish the arms off. Too tired for lockoff training, so did some PE and maximal hangs. Quick session but productive I feel. Only spoilt the most wingiest, moany girl... wanted to tell her fella to sack her off. Jeez. She didn't let up.
Gotta work long days and seven days again this week but will make sure I get more sessions in, I was just under the weather from Mon to Thu. Nice to have some problems that I feel i can actually project and manage to recruit the strength for before they're reset. Fingers felt good for the few days rest but have a bit of an infection in the one that had the pad ripped off at Portland.
Stripped the racking out of the new van - sorta got a floor plan now but first thing is to get the roof insulated. Then sort out the electrics - thinking I'm gonna use a battery to battery charger to give power to two 100ah leisure batteries. After that get the walls and doors insulated and that'll have to do till just before the trip. can't fit beds etc till I finish work. It drives nice tho, if a little/lot bumpy when empty.
Feeling much better today tho, lots of sleep seems to be working.
Cheers nick - yeah was a few too many days but was exploring what I can actually get away with. Change of tack now.
Was really rough at the start of the week - took myself off to bed about 8pm every evening, as thought sleep might help me get over this lingering malaise from the virus I had most of December.
Fri - Picked up the new van! Well chuffed. Bought it with a 107,000 on the clock - realised on the way home, the dash was set to km. Quick fiddle with the settings and ta da... 66,000. Result! Popped to the boulder room for 1.5hr. New set, new setters. Loads more crimps this time, so I was happy. Managed a problem I'd have normally bailed on in fear of face rash and reckon there's stuff there that I can actually progress on for the next six weeks, rather than being stumped by my own weakness. Good session.
Sat - Worked. Tired after, so nice grub and a movie.
Sun - Worked. Boulder room 1hr. Stayed on the 30, 45 and roof. Didn't rest and pretty knackered by the end. Not panels I usually inhabit. Battered by the end and headed into the main room. Got on the campus rails/fingerboards to finish the arms off. Too tired for lockoff training, so did some PE and maximal hangs. Quick session but productive I feel. Only spoilt the most wingiest, moany girl... wanted to tell her fella to sack her off. Jeez. She didn't let up.
Gotta work long days and seven days again this week but will make sure I get more sessions in, I was just under the weather from Mon to Thu. Nice to have some problems that I feel i can actually project and manage to recruit the strength for before they're reset. Fingers felt good for the few days rest but have a bit of an infection in the one that had the pad ripped off at Portland.
Stripped the racking out of the new van - sorta got a floor plan now but first thing is to get the roof insulated. Then sort out the electrics - thinking I'm gonna use a battery to battery charger to give power to two 100ah leisure batteries. After that get the walls and doors insulated and that'll have to do till just before the trip. can't fit beds etc till I finish work. It drives nice tho, if a little/lot bumpy when empty.
Feeling much better today tho, lots of sleep seems to be working.
In reply to mrchewy:
i think we did electrics first and then walled them in with walls and roof later on.
In reply to Si dH:
Sounds like a good day out for you this weekend...
Yeah I think I've got the sequence sorted to get to the slap itself - heel toe to get the intermediate crimpy flake nice and static - just haven't stuck the slap itself yet. It's coming along slowly. Really not my usual kind of moves so I'm happy to still be seeing some progress with it. It'll go eventually!
i think we did electrics first and then walled them in with walls and roof later on.
In reply to Si dH:
Sounds like a good day out for you this weekend...
Yeah I think I've got the sequence sorted to get to the slap itself - heel toe to get the intermediate crimpy flake nice and static - just haven't stuck the slap itself yet. It's coming along slowly. Really not my usual kind of moves so I'm happy to still be seeing some progress with it. It'll go eventually!
In reply to Mutl3y:
First week of Boston Training...
Christmas was 3 weeks back in the UK, 90+ miles a week, 10,000ft of ascent, but no quality, loads of trail and fell running.
Now back,first week of Spring marathon training completed..
Targeting Boston.. low 2:30's.
93 miles for the week.
m: 12.5 road run 7:30 pace
t: 11.2 miles with 5 x 1mile, (5:35pace) 1 min rest
w: 12.5 miles 7:30 pace.
t: am: 4 miles 7:50 pace. pm: 11.1 miles 6:50 pace road and trail.
f: 11.1 miles, warm up and 20 x 30s hard (5k pace and quicker), 30 steady.
s: am: 5 miles 7:50 pace. pm: 8.5 miles 7:20 pace.
s: 17.2 miles 6:50 pace.
Nice solid start to training, diet much better too. Pretty happy with that.
First week of Boston Training...
Christmas was 3 weeks back in the UK, 90+ miles a week, 10,000ft of ascent, but no quality, loads of trail and fell running.
Now back,first week of Spring marathon training completed..
Targeting Boston.. low 2:30's.
93 miles for the week.
m: 12.5 road run 7:30 pace
t: 11.2 miles with 5 x 1mile, (5:35pace) 1 min rest
w: 12.5 miles 7:30 pace.
t: am: 4 miles 7:50 pace. pm: 11.1 miles 6:50 pace road and trail.
f: 11.1 miles, warm up and 20 x 30s hard (5k pace and quicker), 30 steady.
s: am: 5 miles 7:50 pace. pm: 8.5 miles 7:20 pace.
s: 17.2 miles 6:50 pace.
Nice solid start to training, diet much better too. Pretty happy with that.
In reply to AJM:
Cool, sounds like you're close...good luck!
Couldn't quite believe it yesterday, I just seemed to be climbing 2 grades harder than normal, amazing. ☺ Think there should be a video of me on Sean's arête too.
Cool, sounds like you're close...good luck!
Couldn't quite believe it yesterday, I just seemed to be climbing 2 grades harder than normal, amazing. ☺ Think there should be a video of me on Sean's arête too.
In reply to Si dH:
On fire!
I forgot to mention that I cycled 4 days so met that goal too. Some grim rides but a PB for the ride home on Friday to make up for it - all that slogging into headwinds must have done me some good.
On fire!
I forgot to mention that I cycled 4 days so met that goal too. Some grim rides but a PB for the ride home on Friday to make up for it - all that slogging into headwinds must have done me some good.
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Emily/Nick,
The elbows are still going strong, the finger is not getting any worse, but it doesn't seem to be getting better fast either so i've sacked off the hard climbing 'performance' sessions from my training plan for now, despite taping the finger and getting very little discomfort from it while climbing, I don't think the really hard stuff is helping it get fixed.
Another good week though, psyche is super high now that I appear to have indestructible elbows (don't worry i'm not going to go silly and break them)
M: Bouldering; Aerocap, 15min x3
T: Strength and conditioning
W: Routes; 4x4 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a
T: Strength and conditioning
F:
S: Daytrip to London to see Cirque de Soleil - Mind blown
S: Routes; Sacked off performance session, bimbled up to 6c+
Aerocap went well on Monday, although I did get stigmata on my palms from holding too many jugs! Reckon I got around 700 moves in altogether, drop knees and step throughs are becoming second nature.
My S&C session is 3 sets of 14 exercises, which i had been performing with a rest between sets and I found the whole thing pretty easy to be honest. After re-reading the training plan it seems all 3 sets should be done back to back, so 42 exercises in a row. I've been doing this for the last couple of sessions and it certainly ups the difficulty!
4x4's went ok, the 7a I wanted to use on the steep wall was busy all night so I had to use one on a slightly overhanging wall, it was way too sequence-y and fingery for my liking so I dropped it to a 6c+ on the same rope but that felt nails and not a good route too, cue many falls. I don't know if it was me being worn out or the route being hard and rubbish but hopefully I can see some improvement on that performance next time I do 4x4's.
Cirque de Soleil on Saturday was breathtaking, every performance was more bonkers than the last, my favourite was a pair of giant metal hamster wheels on the ends of an 8 metre long structure that rotated around it's centre, the performers would run inside the wheels, then outside the wheels, then started jumping around on top of them, all completely untethered and about 10 metres off the ground!
Chilled out climb on Sunday (Literally, it was freezing in Calshot) plus I filmed a bit of silliness for my Ninja Warrior UK application. That's right, Ninja Warrior is coming to the UK! I've always wanted to have a crack on those obstacles, and I reckon that if you can get past the first round, which is mostly running and jumping and stuff, then the rest of the rounds are just variations on campussing really. Being a climber should serve me well for that, especially as I have always climbed with a focus on arm strength.
I need to put together an application video and I wanted to include some footage of the harder climbs I have done, problem is, to a non climber, a video of me navigating the super-technical crux of a 7c+ doesn't look all that impressive, so I got some footage on sunday of me campussing up a 13 metre overhanging 6a+, pure showboating but much more visually impressive I hope.
Target for this week: more of the same, keep up the volume, keep an eye on the injuries.
> Dandan82 - Great news on the elbow! How's the finger coming on?
Thanks Emily/Nick,
The elbows are still going strong, the finger is not getting any worse, but it doesn't seem to be getting better fast either so i've sacked off the hard climbing 'performance' sessions from my training plan for now, despite taping the finger and getting very little discomfort from it while climbing, I don't think the really hard stuff is helping it get fixed.
Another good week though, psyche is super high now that I appear to have indestructible elbows (don't worry i'm not going to go silly and break them)
M: Bouldering; Aerocap, 15min x3
T: Strength and conditioning
W: Routes; 4x4 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a
T: Strength and conditioning
F:
S: Daytrip to London to see Cirque de Soleil - Mind blown
S: Routes; Sacked off performance session, bimbled up to 6c+
Aerocap went well on Monday, although I did get stigmata on my palms from holding too many jugs! Reckon I got around 700 moves in altogether, drop knees and step throughs are becoming second nature.
My S&C session is 3 sets of 14 exercises, which i had been performing with a rest between sets and I found the whole thing pretty easy to be honest. After re-reading the training plan it seems all 3 sets should be done back to back, so 42 exercises in a row. I've been doing this for the last couple of sessions and it certainly ups the difficulty!
4x4's went ok, the 7a I wanted to use on the steep wall was busy all night so I had to use one on a slightly overhanging wall, it was way too sequence-y and fingery for my liking so I dropped it to a 6c+ on the same rope but that felt nails and not a good route too, cue many falls. I don't know if it was me being worn out or the route being hard and rubbish but hopefully I can see some improvement on that performance next time I do 4x4's.
Cirque de Soleil on Saturday was breathtaking, every performance was more bonkers than the last, my favourite was a pair of giant metal hamster wheels on the ends of an 8 metre long structure that rotated around it's centre, the performers would run inside the wheels, then outside the wheels, then started jumping around on top of them, all completely untethered and about 10 metres off the ground!
Chilled out climb on Sunday (Literally, it was freezing in Calshot) plus I filmed a bit of silliness for my Ninja Warrior UK application. That's right, Ninja Warrior is coming to the UK! I've always wanted to have a crack on those obstacles, and I reckon that if you can get past the first round, which is mostly running and jumping and stuff, then the rest of the rounds are just variations on campussing really. Being a climber should serve me well for that, especially as I have always climbed with a focus on arm strength.
I need to put together an application video and I wanted to include some footage of the harder climbs I have done, problem is, to a non climber, a video of me navigating the super-technical crux of a 7c+ doesn't look all that impressive, so I got some footage on sunday of me campussing up a 13 metre overhanging 6a+, pure showboating but much more visually impressive I hope.
Target for this week: more of the same, keep up the volume, keep an eye on the injuries.
In reply to Emily:
Thanks for taking up the UKCFC mantel Nick (and Emily for posting).
Knuckled down and got on with the training this week, but still missed out on two of the scheduled sessions. Not really sure how I’d have fitted much more in without risking injury? Similar volume/intensity week scheduled for this week
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Stay in gainful employment – redundancy looking less likely, but still not certain
- Fisheye and/or Humildes pas Casa, Oliana; End of Feb.
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad finger)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 76.0kg and 6.7% BF this morning, but was as low as 75.2kg and 6.6% BF midweek – remember fatty - “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Last/next week)
- More volume at moderate intensity – doubles making an appearance
- Re-build the campus board (and make it a bit taller – currently being varnished indoors before reassembly)
- Work out a f7b-ish circuit for aero-cap training – TICK – now lap it.
Last week:
M - Rest; well sort of! Procrastinated heavily, but eventually got round to doing 200 core movements, 60 press-ups and some stretching.
T - Bought 3 month pass for AW’s – committed now. Fingerboard (1) - variation using foot-off, BM2K big slots and fore-finger mono to ease load on other hand – HARD! Then tried 1 on/2 off aero-cap but cocked up intensity and quickly had to drop both number of moves and intensity as was getting powered out, not pumped. Think I’ve got a suitable circuit sorted now though. Core, shoulders and forearms felt very worked afterwards.
W - Felt beasted, so ignored the plan and did aero-cap only. 1 on/2 off: TR’ing a 7a felt too easy, but the 7a+ and 7b I tried were too weird and technical to be lapping. 3x 10min continuity blocs, 6c/6c+/6c. Good level of puffing.
T - Rest – procrastination won out this time.
F - Linked boulder an-cap; felt quite strong doing middle 14 moves of “supercircuit”. 2 sets on this, then final one on a V6/7 link-up.
S - Cave. Should have been boulder mileage an-cap, but was much less structured. Managed to repeat a couple of soft V9’s, and a bunch of V7/8’s.
S - Rest(ish) – DIY, 410 core movements, 90 press-ups and a good stretch.
Thanks for taking up the UKCFC mantel Nick (and Emily for posting).
Knuckled down and got on with the training this week, but still missed out on two of the scheduled sessions. Not really sure how I’d have fitted much more in without risking injury? Similar volume/intensity week scheduled for this week
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Stay in gainful employment – redundancy looking less likely, but still not certain
- Fisheye and/or Humildes pas Casa, Oliana; End of Feb.
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad finger)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 76.0kg and 6.7% BF this morning, but was as low as 75.2kg and 6.6% BF midweek – remember fatty - “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Last/next week)
- More volume at moderate intensity – doubles making an appearance
- Re-build the campus board (and make it a bit taller – currently being varnished indoors before reassembly)
- Work out a f7b-ish circuit for aero-cap training – TICK – now lap it.
Last week:
M - Rest; well sort of! Procrastinated heavily, but eventually got round to doing 200 core movements, 60 press-ups and some stretching.
T - Bought 3 month pass for AW’s – committed now. Fingerboard (1) - variation using foot-off, BM2K big slots and fore-finger mono to ease load on other hand – HARD! Then tried 1 on/2 off aero-cap but cocked up intensity and quickly had to drop both number of moves and intensity as was getting powered out, not pumped. Think I’ve got a suitable circuit sorted now though. Core, shoulders and forearms felt very worked afterwards.
W - Felt beasted, so ignored the plan and did aero-cap only. 1 on/2 off: TR’ing a 7a felt too easy, but the 7a+ and 7b I tried were too weird and technical to be lapping. 3x 10min continuity blocs, 6c/6c+/6c. Good level of puffing.
T - Rest – procrastination won out this time.
F - Linked boulder an-cap; felt quite strong doing middle 14 moves of “supercircuit”. 2 sets on this, then final one on a V6/7 link-up.
S - Cave. Should have been boulder mileage an-cap, but was much less structured. Managed to repeat a couple of soft V9’s, and a bunch of V7/8’s.
S - Rest(ish) – DIY, 410 core movements, 90 press-ups and a good stretch.
In reply to Emily:
thanks Emily/Nick. Rather a meh week.
Normal cycle commute Mon-Thur.
M - bouldering, 7 problems, spend 10 mins per problem working it. I went to UCR and was pleased that in 2 of te problems I did manage totally dynamic moves. General grade was a bit down on what the plan said due to having climbed over the weekend.
T - S&C. Yes doing it back-to-back makes taht 3rd set rather more challenging. I have been known to go and get a cup of tea between set 2 & 3 but don't count that as a proper rest!
W - TCA. Plan was boulder 5x5s on V3 & V4. Unfortunately the circuit that is supposed to cover that range has been decidedly over-egged and is flipping impossible, so I went for the high end of the circuit below and did more. Could have done with a loger session but arrived late and it was also v busy.
T - fingerboard. 3 hard sets.
F - S&C
S - UCR, warm-up then routex2. The plan said 6c,7a,7a,7a+,7b but that they should be familiar. This proved problematic due to wall business and several normal routes having been reset. 2nd 7a the only one free was the route I'd done as my first indoor onsight at the grade and which I'd been avoiding ever since. Failed to do it twice and felt useless. My normal 7b (there are only 2!) had gone, so had a go trying the brand new one. Got shut down 1/2 way up, so again felt useless. Did onsight a new 6c in my warm-up, but I darn well should be able to do that unless the route has extreme weirdness.
S - S&C. Due to feeling of general underachievment from the week, did 4 sets back to back not the normal 3.
Not happy
thanks Emily/Nick. Rather a meh week.
Normal cycle commute Mon-Thur.
M - bouldering, 7 problems, spend 10 mins per problem working it. I went to UCR and was pleased that in 2 of te problems I did manage totally dynamic moves. General grade was a bit down on what the plan said due to having climbed over the weekend.
T - S&C. Yes doing it back-to-back makes taht 3rd set rather more challenging. I have been known to go and get a cup of tea between set 2 & 3 but don't count that as a proper rest!
W - TCA. Plan was boulder 5x5s on V3 & V4. Unfortunately the circuit that is supposed to cover that range has been decidedly over-egged and is flipping impossible, so I went for the high end of the circuit below and did more. Could have done with a loger session but arrived late and it was also v busy.
T - fingerboard. 3 hard sets.
F - S&C
S - UCR, warm-up then routex2. The plan said 6c,7a,7a,7a+,7b but that they should be familiar. This proved problematic due to wall business and several normal routes having been reset. 2nd 7a the only one free was the route I'd done as my first indoor onsight at the grade and which I'd been avoiding ever since. Failed to do it twice and felt useless. My normal 7b (there are only 2!) had gone, so had a go trying the brand new one. Got shut down 1/2 way up, so again felt useless. Did onsight a new 6c in my warm-up, but I darn well should be able to do that unless the route has extreme weirdness.
S - S&C. Due to feeling of general underachievment from the week, did 4 sets back to back not the normal 3.
Not happy
In reply to hms:
Cup of tea? Luxury!
doesn't sound like a 'meh' week to me, on paper it looks really good, but I guess only you know if you were performing well or not at each session.
I'm also having trouble matching the grades suggested on my plan, so it's not just you.
> T - S&C. Yes doing it back-to-back makes taht 3rd set rather more challenging. I have been known to go and get a cup of tea between set 2 & 3 but don't count that as a proper rest!
Cup of tea? Luxury!
doesn't sound like a 'meh' week to me, on paper it looks really good, but I guess only you know if you were performing well or not at each session.
I'm also having trouble matching the grades suggested on my plan, so it's not just you.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Quick qu for you Ally - boulder mileage....
Assume you have the same 2 set arrangement as me? (20 per set, 2 sets)
If so, how do you feel at the start of set 2? I've got 2 problems right at the start of my set, both start mid roof - one is pull on, campus, throw heel on, one is pull on, heels on, big throw. Problem is at the start of set 2, even after my decent 30min break, the fast twitch power just isn't there. Given I've got no grades and am having to work by feel it's hard to know if they are too hard, if the first set as a whole is too hard because I can't recover the power, if i should be resting longer to recover the power, or whether they're just not suitable sorts of problems because the moves are so all-or-nothing. Was going to ask.Tom but since I see you've been doing some this week I wondered if you had any ideas. Instructions say be precise and perfect but it's not a question of making.mistakes it's a question of just not having the power in the tank for the moves.
Quick qu for you Ally - boulder mileage....
Assume you have the same 2 set arrangement as me? (20 per set, 2 sets)
If so, how do you feel at the start of set 2? I've got 2 problems right at the start of my set, both start mid roof - one is pull on, campus, throw heel on, one is pull on, heels on, big throw. Problem is at the start of set 2, even after my decent 30min break, the fast twitch power just isn't there. Given I've got no grades and am having to work by feel it's hard to know if they are too hard, if the first set as a whole is too hard because I can't recover the power, if i should be resting longer to recover the power, or whether they're just not suitable sorts of problems because the moves are so all-or-nothing. Was going to ask.Tom but since I see you've been doing some this week I wondered if you had any ideas. Instructions say be precise and perfect but it's not a question of making.mistakes it's a question of just not having the power in the tank for the moves.
In reply to Dandan and hms:
I'm another one struggling to make my sessions work w.r.t. to the intended grades:
- stuff getting reset too often
- not knowing if the intensity is going to be right when trying out a new session
- it being too busy to get on what you want - thankfully i'm able to get some 4pm sessions in at the mo, and avoid the worst of the crowds
I'm another one struggling to make my sessions work w.r.t. to the intended grades:
- stuff getting reset too often
- not knowing if the intensity is going to be right when trying out a new session
- it being too busy to get on what you want - thankfully i'm able to get some 4pm sessions in at the mo, and avoid the worst of the crowds
In reply to AJM:
Sounds to me like those problems are too high intensity for inclusion in a circuit? Maybe just include them in the first round when you're fresh enough to do them and deliberately drop them from the second set?
Don't worry about not having grades - go off the feel instead - Stockport grades are all over the place - the current V7/8 set is miles easier than the V6's and even some of the V5's.
Trying to do this session in Parisella's was interesting!
Sounds to me like those problems are too high intensity for inclusion in a circuit? Maybe just include them in the first round when you're fresh enough to do them and deliberately drop them from the second set?
Don't worry about not having grades - go off the feel instead - Stockport grades are all over the place - the current V7/8 set is miles easier than the V6's and even some of the V5's.
Trying to do this session in Parisella's was interesting!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I can often get to UCR early as I can cycle from work. TCA is more of a pain as I have to drive to work and then on, which is what I'll be doing today. Means I miss out on the cycle commute exercise which is a shame. Weds I could have got to TCA earlier, but had arranged with my husband that we'd go together & he got home rather later than I'd expected, hence being there at peak time - yuk. Plus the Mothership was stripped ready for Blocfest, so the hoped for steep 6bs were missing. The Blocfest problems are my target for today!
I can often get to UCR early as I can cycle from work. TCA is more of a pain as I have to drive to work and then on, which is what I'll be doing today. Means I miss out on the cycle commute exercise which is a shame. Weds I could have got to TCA earlier, but had arranged with my husband that we'd go together & he got home rather later than I'd expected, hence being there at peak time - yuk. Plus the Mothership was stripped ready for Blocfest, so the hoped for steep 6bs were missing. The Blocfest problems are my target for today!
In reply to Emily:
Thanks for posting Emily, no avalanches to report.
M - Rest
T - UCR
W - Gym
T - TCA. A bit meh, tape on fingers really annoying me.
F - Rest
S,S - Ski touring in the Cairngorms. Hard work!
Looking back at it, M-F was a bit poor really. The UCR session was good, but not very structured. Good weekend though - first time ski touring.
Goals
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a) (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
2-finger (front and middle) repeaters on BM1000 small pockets
No fingerboard this week
Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile
> currently dodging avalanches or something in Scotland.
Thanks for posting Emily, no avalanches to report.
M - Rest
T - UCR
W - Gym
T - TCA. A bit meh, tape on fingers really annoying me.
F - Rest
S,S - Ski touring in the Cairngorms. Hard work!
Looking back at it, M-F was a bit poor really. The UCR session was good, but not very structured. Good weekend though - first time ski touring.
Goals
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
No fingerboard this week
Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile
In reply to Ally Smith:
Ive just finished a boulder session and I want to know if that's good news or bad news. Do you mean the v6's are hard or are they correct and the v7/8's are easy? I got stuck on a few v5's and the 6's felt really hard. Please tell me it's the former!
> Don't worry about not having grades - go off the feel instead - Stockport grades are all over the place - the current V7/8 set is miles easier than the V6's and even some of the V5's.
Ive just finished a boulder session and I want to know if that's good news or bad news. Do you mean the v6's are hard or are they correct and the v7/8's are easy? I got stuck on a few v5's and the 6's felt really hard. Please tell me it's the former!
In reply to biscuit:
Most of the 6's felt about right, with a couple of awkward ones.
The V7/8 circuit is massively variable with a grade range of V3-8. The black v8+'s on the 45 feel spot on though
Most of the 6's felt about right, with a couple of awkward ones.
The V7/8 circuit is massively variable with a grade range of V3-8. The black v8+'s on the 45 feel spot on though
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally.
I can skip the pure campus move on one, can reach the second hold from the ground, which is what I did this time, and will maybe look for a replacement for the other in set 2.
Cheers Ally.
I can skip the pure campus move on one, can reach the second hold from the ground, which is what I did this time, and will maybe look for a replacement for the other in set 2.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Well that's what happens when you don't Boulder for a few weeks I guess. Ah well another weakness to work.
Cheers.
Well that's what happens when you don't Boulder for a few weeks I guess. Ah well another weakness to work.
Cheers.
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Nick (and Emily!).
Successfully upping the time of the 6a+ traverse, 27.5 mins on Friday. Finishing off with the 5+ it felt like I could keep going forever on that now. Still feeling quite strong at the end of the session, so decided to have a quick play on the campus slopers. Previously I've been able to go from the first to second rung then fall off, so pretty poor. I got halfway up the board which was a nice surprise. At the end of Sunday's session I thought I'd try again, and got to the top! Which made up for my failed 7a onsight attempt...
M - Rest
T - Wall. 90 mins bouldering up to v4.
30 min system board (12 moves on every five minute mark).
ARC Traverse - 25 mins 6a+, 5 mins rest, 15 mins 5+.
5 minutes extra on the 6a+ traverse.
W - 1 Hour core strength work
T - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+3kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-6kgs).
+1kg half crimp, +1kg Slopers.
F - Wall. 90 mins bouldering - working v5s.
30 min system board (12 moves - 5 mins rest).
ARC Traverse (27.5 mins 6a+. 5 mins rest. 12.5 mins 5+).
2.5 minutes extra on the 6a+ traverse.
S - Rest
S - Wall. 60 mins bouldering warm up, sent one of the harder v5s.
3 hours or so of routes up to 7a clean. Top rope play on a 7a+, onsight in 2 sections, just needed a rest in the middle, so might try and build up to leading it over the next couple of weeks.
Thanks Nick (and Emily!).
Successfully upping the time of the 6a+ traverse, 27.5 mins on Friday. Finishing off with the 5+ it felt like I could keep going forever on that now. Still feeling quite strong at the end of the session, so decided to have a quick play on the campus slopers. Previously I've been able to go from the first to second rung then fall off, so pretty poor. I got halfway up the board which was a nice surprise. At the end of Sunday's session I thought I'd try again, and got to the top! Which made up for my failed 7a onsight attempt...
M - Rest
T - Wall. 90 mins bouldering up to v4.
30 min system board (12 moves on every five minute mark).
ARC Traverse - 25 mins 6a+, 5 mins rest, 15 mins 5+.
5 minutes extra on the 6a+ traverse.
W - 1 Hour core strength work
T - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+3kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-6kgs).
+1kg half crimp, +1kg Slopers.
F - Wall. 90 mins bouldering - working v5s.
30 min system board (12 moves - 5 mins rest).
ARC Traverse (27.5 mins 6a+. 5 mins rest. 12.5 mins 5+).
2.5 minutes extra on the 6a+ traverse.
S - Rest
S - Wall. 60 mins bouldering warm up, sent one of the harder v5s.
3 hours or so of routes up to 7a clean. Top rope play on a 7a+, onsight in 2 sections, just needed a rest in the middle, so might try and build up to leading it over the next couple of weeks.
In reply to Creedence:
There seems to be some really strong effort being put into training around here recently!
I forgot to mention in my post, I asked at Calshot a couple of weeks ago if they could set some more hard climbs as they currently only have one 7b+, two 7a+ and a handful of 7a's, the guy working there explained how all the good setters had left (probably to work at better walls) and suggested that the only way I might get any harder routes any time soon is if I ask about joining their setting team...
Sounds like fun to me, I'm always up for adding another string to my bow, so i've made enquiries, we shall see what happens.
There seems to be some really strong effort being put into training around here recently!
I forgot to mention in my post, I asked at Calshot a couple of weeks ago if they could set some more hard climbs as they currently only have one 7b+, two 7a+ and a handful of 7a's, the guy working there explained how all the good setters had left (probably to work at better walls) and suggested that the only way I might get any harder routes any time soon is if I ask about joining their setting team...
Sounds like fun to me, I'm always up for adding another string to my bow, so i've made enquiries, we shall see what happens.
In reply to Emily:
Had a good seriously week and made great progress on working problems. However, that is it for the bouldering for a while, now in Scotland.
M - Boulder, 7 of the harder problems done.
T - rest
W - Boulder (Big Rock, Milton Keynes), 32 of the 37 latest problems done.
T - Boulder, 5 more problems done.
F - rest
S - pack
S - drove to Scotland.
Had a good seriously week and made great progress on working problems. However, that is it for the bouldering for a while, now in Scotland.
M - Boulder, 7 of the harder problems done.
T - rest
W - Boulder (Big Rock, Milton Keynes), 32 of the 37 latest problems done.
T - Boulder, 5 more problems done.
F - rest
S - pack
S - drove to Scotland.
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Emily - Nick, sounds like you've got a keeper there
I can report affirmative on that one (phew!) although it been a bit touch and go this week. I feel like I'm held together with sticky tape a bit but next week will be easier!
2015 goals: Jan - make the team for the Intercounties XC (tick!), Top 35 at South of England XC
Feb - Top 75 at National XC
Mar - Top 75 at Intercounties XC, Sub 70 Min half @ Reading, Make A-team for Southern 12-Stage road relays
M: Hamstrings not too bad, lunchtime - ran with a couple of guys from work & it turned out to be quite tough. 8.5M with 8M @ 6:20's which in the wind was good going. pm - 4.5M run home in 33:48. I think in hindsight this knackered me for the rest of the week and I didn't really recover
Tu: am - run to work 4.5M in 34:33, pm - run home 9M in 59:43 then went to the physio for more dry needling - ouch+ !
W: am - run to work 4.5M in 31:25, pm - run home then Fartlek (stop sniggering at the back!) 30 mins of 2min hard, 1 min @ around 6 min /Mile ~10M total
Th: Tired! am - run to work 4.5M in 33:10, pm - run home 4.5M in 31:40 - shattered!
F: Much needed rest
Sa: am - Grass session (race simulation) 90secs hard (1min rec), 10mins (2min), 3mins (2min), 10mins (2min), 3mins (1min), 90secs - tough going in the wind/ cold. 9/10M, pm - 5M easy in 34:12
Su: 1:55:51 easy time on feet 15/16M
~80M Total for the week - really glad to get it all done and hamstrings felt ok during Saturdays session so fingers crossed. Also been stretching a bit more so need to keep it up (oh err missus!). Looking forward to an easy week now ahead of the first big race of the year on Saturday.
> Hello Fit Club people. Nick asked me to post the below on his behalf, as he's currently dodging avalanches or something in Scotland. Maybe I should join in with you all sometime, it seems like quite a fun idea...
Thanks Emily - Nick, sounds like you've got a keeper there
> Humperdink - Take care of those hamstrings! Both working again now?
I can report affirmative on that one (phew!) although it been a bit touch and go this week. I feel like I'm held together with sticky tape a bit but next week will be easier!
2015 goals: Jan - make the team for the Intercounties XC (tick!), Top 35 at South of England XC
Feb - Top 75 at National XC
Mar - Top 75 at Intercounties XC, Sub 70 Min half @ Reading, Make A-team for Southern 12-Stage road relays
M: Hamstrings not too bad, lunchtime - ran with a couple of guys from work & it turned out to be quite tough. 8.5M with 8M @ 6:20's which in the wind was good going. pm - 4.5M run home in 33:48. I think in hindsight this knackered me for the rest of the week and I didn't really recover
Tu: am - run to work 4.5M in 34:33, pm - run home 9M in 59:43 then went to the physio for more dry needling - ouch+ !
W: am - run to work 4.5M in 31:25, pm - run home then Fartlek (stop sniggering at the back!) 30 mins of 2min hard, 1 min @ around 6 min /Mile ~10M total
Th: Tired! am - run to work 4.5M in 33:10, pm - run home 4.5M in 31:40 - shattered!
F: Much needed rest
Sa: am - Grass session (race simulation) 90secs hard (1min rec), 10mins (2min), 3mins (2min), 10mins (2min), 3mins (1min), 90secs - tough going in the wind/ cold. 9/10M, pm - 5M easy in 34:12
Su: 1:55:51 easy time on feet 15/16M
~80M Total for the week - really glad to get it all done and hamstrings felt ok during Saturdays session so fingers crossed. Also been stretching a bit more so need to keep it up (oh err missus!). Looking forward to an easy week now ahead of the first big race of the year on Saturday.
In reply to Emily:
Thanks for doing fit club Emily - yes, got some winter climbing done
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7 - sort of, seconded VII 7 ok
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: 9hrs winter climbing at Standing Crag, Thirlmere. Led V 6 and seconded VII 7
A good week. Good to get out on Sunday. Great winter lead from my mate - onsight new route ay VII 7.
Thanks for doing fit club Emily - yes, got some winter climbing done
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7 - sort of, seconded VII 7 ok
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: 9hrs winter climbing at Standing Crag, Thirlmere. Led V 6 and seconded VII 7
A good week. Good to get out on Sunday. Great winter lead from my mate - onsight new route ay VII 7.
In reply to Emily:
Morning Campers,
Having watched from afar, I felt it was time to take the New Year's Fit Club plunge, mind if I join you? Thanks in advance to Andy, Emily and Nick for organising this/me.
So, last week:
Maximum Strength Training Week 1/3
Monday - one armer practice - 3 x sets of six sagging locks each side; 2 x sets 5 pull ups with 7.5kg extra and final set 6 pull ups with 7.5kg extra; 2 x sets 2 offset pull ups - miserable effort on these as feeling it. Also shoulder control muscle exercises, antagonistic muscle stuff e.g dips, bench presses, shoulder presses and front lever practice. Finished with 30 min Yoga video off YouTube.
Tuesday - 5.6km run in the dark at 4.18km/h. Headtorch died a death in the lanes so treating myself to a Petzl Nao. Yoga vid to warm down and stretch out.
Wednesday - Chariot broke down on way to the climbing wall so basically repeated Monday. Yoga when got home.
Thursday - Actually got to TCA! Fast pace wi' the lads. Peaked early - got an orange - and then slowly downhill. 2 hours or so. Great fun.
Friday - DIY and rest.
Saturday - 8.3km run up the muddy woods in 43:12 with 217m height gain. Wicked slithering around in the slop. 5.01 km/h.
Sunday - The might Huntsham. Worked Between The Lines 7B+ but top holds were wet so consolidated on bottom moves, more consistent and precise now. Played on a desperate 7A+ and a 7C at the end to sow the seeds of my next local project. All steep, burly and core-y. Lush to be out.
Goals'll go up next week when it's not so late.
Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx
Morning Campers,
Having watched from afar, I felt it was time to take the New Year's Fit Club plunge, mind if I join you? Thanks in advance to Andy, Emily and Nick for organising this/me.
So, last week:
Maximum Strength Training Week 1/3
Monday - one armer practice - 3 x sets of six sagging locks each side; 2 x sets 5 pull ups with 7.5kg extra and final set 6 pull ups with 7.5kg extra; 2 x sets 2 offset pull ups - miserable effort on these as feeling it. Also shoulder control muscle exercises, antagonistic muscle stuff e.g dips, bench presses, shoulder presses and front lever practice. Finished with 30 min Yoga video off YouTube.
Tuesday - 5.6km run in the dark at 4.18km/h. Headtorch died a death in the lanes so treating myself to a Petzl Nao. Yoga vid to warm down and stretch out.
Wednesday - Chariot broke down on way to the climbing wall so basically repeated Monday. Yoga when got home.
Thursday - Actually got to TCA! Fast pace wi' the lads. Peaked early - got an orange - and then slowly downhill. 2 hours or so. Great fun.
Friday - DIY and rest.
Saturday - 8.3km run up the muddy woods in 43:12 with 217m height gain. Wicked slithering around in the slop. 5.01 km/h.
Sunday - The might Huntsham. Worked Between The Lines 7B+ but top holds were wet so consolidated on bottom moves, more consistent and precise now. Played on a desperate 7A+ and a 7C at the end to sow the seeds of my next local project. All steep, burly and core-y. Lush to be out.
Goals'll go up next week when it's not so late.
Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx
1
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Nick/Emily! It's so fun too. Settling into 6 days a week training (5 climbing, 1 trapeze) now so hopefully will be fit for Font come Easter. It is tiring though! Weather, work and general circumstances haven’t been kind over the last few weeks but raring to go when I get a window to do some real rock! In the meantime the WBLs are coming along fine and it’s nice to have a focus on the plastic.
M – Trapeze. Did lesson 10 on second session with lots of linked moves so quite pleased (and bruised!)
T – Boulder Milton Keynes. WBL third round begins. 20 problems/40
W – Coaching Brookes. Lead Brookes pyramid to 6b+ onsight. Tired.
T – Boulder Brookes c.40 problems onsight in green/blue circuits.
F – rest
S – Boulder Milton Keynes. Got a few more WBL including roof and grit volume ones. Climbing partner popped knee on over-rotated heelhook.
S – Decided to bin Portland as climbing partner has fat knee. Lead Brookes pyramid to 6c.
Edited to add some goals:
STG specifics:
• Maintain fitness/climbing training while on skiing holiday and get in a few big multipitch routes in Colorado (12-25 Feb)
• Qualify for Big Rock WBL senior women’s final (can’t actually do the final as am away skiing!)
• Win Wirksworth Senior women’s WBL (22 March)
• Get fit for Font (28 March)
MTG generals:
• Consolidate E1/6c/V3 outside
• E2/7a+/V4-5 in good style outside
• Maintain 5/6 training sessions a week throughout 2015
• Minimum 100 sessions on rock this year (72 in 2014)
LTG:
• Learn to embrace failure (ha!)
• TBC
Thanks Nick/Emily! It's so fun too. Settling into 6 days a week training (5 climbing, 1 trapeze) now so hopefully will be fit for Font come Easter. It is tiring though! Weather, work and general circumstances haven’t been kind over the last few weeks but raring to go when I get a window to do some real rock! In the meantime the WBLs are coming along fine and it’s nice to have a focus on the plastic.
M – Trapeze. Did lesson 10 on second session with lots of linked moves so quite pleased (and bruised!)
T – Boulder Milton Keynes. WBL third round begins. 20 problems/40
W – Coaching Brookes. Lead Brookes pyramid to 6b+ onsight. Tired.
T – Boulder Brookes c.40 problems onsight in green/blue circuits.
F – rest
S – Boulder Milton Keynes. Got a few more WBL including roof and grit volume ones. Climbing partner popped knee on over-rotated heelhook.
S – Decided to bin Portland as climbing partner has fat knee. Lead Brookes pyramid to 6c.
Edited to add some goals:
STG specifics:
• Maintain fitness/climbing training while on skiing holiday and get in a few big multipitch routes in Colorado (12-25 Feb)
• Qualify for Big Rock WBL senior women’s final (can’t actually do the final as am away skiing!)
• Win Wirksworth Senior women’s WBL (22 March)
• Get fit for Font (28 March)
MTG generals:
• Consolidate E1/6c/V3 outside
• E2/7a+/V4-5 in good style outside
• Maintain 5/6 training sessions a week throughout 2015
• Minimum 100 sessions on rock this year (72 in 2014)
LTG:
• Learn to embrace failure (ha!)
• TBC
Post edited at 15:55
In reply to Emily:
Thanks Emily / Nick!
M - Cycle commute. Stayed up till gone midnight waiting for my daughter to get home from a school competition in Brum - knackered.
T - Early start. Cycle commute. Binned the planned run (too tired, too cold), donned down jackets and went for a walk instead.
W - Cycle commute. Indoor routes, warmed up on a 4 then did a 4+, 5, 5+ pyramid. Struggled to be honest, failed on stuff I’d flew up previously.
T - Cycle commute. 7.8km run, tried to keep heart rate below 80% but the strength of the wind made running up hill a real chore!
F - Cycle commute. Rest. Curry was cancelled due to a depressing turn of events!
S - Indoor routes first thing in the morning. I needed to warm up more but felt a lot stronger than mid week. Flashed everything I went at 4+, 5, 5+. Getting there.
S - Rest-ish.
Thanks Emily / Nick!
M - Cycle commute. Stayed up till gone midnight waiting for my daughter to get home from a school competition in Brum - knackered.
T - Early start. Cycle commute. Binned the planned run (too tired, too cold), donned down jackets and went for a walk instead.
W - Cycle commute. Indoor routes, warmed up on a 4 then did a 4+, 5, 5+ pyramid. Struggled to be honest, failed on stuff I’d flew up previously.
T - Cycle commute. 7.8km run, tried to keep heart rate below 80% but the strength of the wind made running up hill a real chore!
F - Cycle commute. Rest. Curry was cancelled due to a depressing turn of events!
S - Indoor routes first thing in the morning. I needed to warm up more but felt a lot stronger than mid week. Flashed everything I went at 4+, 5, 5+. Getting there.
S - Rest-ish.
In reply to Emily:
Hi there,
In a bid to commit to improve my climbing, I am joining this thread- hope you don't mind a total amateur on here..... Moved up to Sheffield in 2013 from London, and started climbing that Easter- currently leading VS at Trad, and 6b max indoors.
So, the plan is to try to build myself up to HVS in 2015. Any advice would be great- I weigh 85kg (9% body fat) and have a bit of a rugby-players's build.
Cheers.
Last week was this:
M- 12 mile cycle commute. Weights session.
T- 12 mile cycle commute. Evening bouldering at the Works- did about 17 of the green and pink routes. Followed by 40 pull ups to kill myself off.
W- 12 mile cycle commute.
T- 12 mile cycle commute.
F- 12 mile cycle commute.
S- First grit of 2015- a snatched lunchtime 2 hours at Burbage North- solo'd 6 routes- VS, HS, HVD, HVD, VD, VD.
S- Fingerboard session
Hi there,
In a bid to commit to improve my climbing, I am joining this thread- hope you don't mind a total amateur on here..... Moved up to Sheffield in 2013 from London, and started climbing that Easter- currently leading VS at Trad, and 6b max indoors.
So, the plan is to try to build myself up to HVS in 2015. Any advice would be great- I weigh 85kg (9% body fat) and have a bit of a rugby-players's build.
Cheers.
Last week was this:
M- 12 mile cycle commute. Weights session.
T- 12 mile cycle commute. Evening bouldering at the Works- did about 17 of the green and pink routes. Followed by 40 pull ups to kill myself off.
W- 12 mile cycle commute.
T- 12 mile cycle commute.
F- 12 mile cycle commute.
S- First grit of 2015- a snatched lunchtime 2 hours at Burbage North- solo'd 6 routes- VS, HS, HVD, HVD, VD, VD.
S- Fingerboard session
In reply to Lancer:
Welcome to the club!
If you are doing 40 pull-ups and fingerboard sessions then I imagine you should be more realistically aiming to get into the E grades this year, if you can climb 6b clean then it's just mind games between you and an E1.
I don't mean to rubbish your targets, i'm not exactly qualified to comment as i've done 2 trad routes in my life, but we like to aim high here in the fit club!
Welcome to the club!
If you are doing 40 pull-ups and fingerboard sessions then I imagine you should be more realistically aiming to get into the E grades this year, if you can climb 6b clean then it's just mind games between you and an E1.
I don't mean to rubbish your targets, i'm not exactly qualified to comment as i've done 2 trad routes in my life, but we like to aim high here in the fit club!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the welcome and feedback- always welcome. Also, more than happy for people to rubbish my targets, as I would love to accelerate to E1 (that was my long term target..), but I was trying to be more conservative (or is that realistic?)
Also, I just hasten to add that I have only just started climbing 6b clean, and my pull-ups were 4 x 10's....
Thanks for the welcome and feedback- always welcome. Also, more than happy for people to rubbish my targets, as I would love to accelerate to E1 (that was my long term target..), but I was trying to be more conservative (or is that realistic?)
Also, I just hasten to add that I have only just started climbing 6b clean, and my pull-ups were 4 x 10's....
In reply to Lancer:
I can do two pullups, three max and have only ever done one 6b indoors and one outdoors (onsight mind) - never really been arsed with sport much tho, certainly inside. I have ticked some soft E1s tho and had a good go at E2 and E3 on lead, despite weighing the same as you almost!
Personally, gritstone HVS is the living death - I've found E1 to be slightly less scary. There's plenty of VS routes that make me gibber.
Aim high... you never know, you might enjoy it!
I can do two pullups, three max and have only ever done one 6b indoors and one outdoors (onsight mind) - never really been arsed with sport much tho, certainly inside. I have ticked some soft E1s tho and had a good go at E2 and E3 on lead, despite weighing the same as you almost!
Personally, gritstone HVS is the living death - I've found E1 to be slightly less scary. There's plenty of VS routes that make me gibber.
Aim high... you never know, you might enjoy it!
In reply to mrchewy:
Great- thank you! This is all rather inspiring- I knew joining this forum was a good idea. I may well add E1 to my target grade- especially as there are a few that I have my eye on close to Sheffield.... Many thanks.
Great- thank you! This is all rather inspiring- I knew joining this forum was a good idea. I may well add E1 to my target grade- especially as there are a few that I have my eye on close to Sheffield.... Many thanks.
In reply to Emily:
Late entry from me.
Indoors once, pootled along.
Thanks!
NB at Reach today, so hopefully some climbing!
Late entry from me.
Indoors once, pootled along.
Thanks!
NB at Reach today, so hopefully some climbing!
In reply to Emily:
I've been in a bit of dip recently which was always likely after the peak I was at over the Christmas period. After 2 slow weeks as I'll write below I've managed to pull myself out of this by hitting up the exercise in a big way. Have to also mention the inspirational mega psyche of everyone down the wall.
S-parisellas - warmed up doing cave life short. Fell off the top of trigger cut (no knee bar *cough* ally *cough*) 3 times. Last time was because my foot popped on the last move! Cooled down doing cavelife from the wobbly block. Didn't feel very V10 to me. Although I have done left wall a few thousand times.
M- shoulder is wrecked. Thought id injured it in the cave. Didn't do anything at the wall.
T- tried climbing but got a mega ache in my biceps. Tendinitis? Argh - dip mentality making me think I'm sinking into a pit of depression.
W- core training. Resting the arms.
T- rest
F- comp. fell off everything. Flashed some hard stuff and fell off loads of easy stuff. Some great blocs set by Shauna coxey. Somehow managed to finish 2nd, 5 points behind Eddie. Got to get out of this dip, can't be getting beaten by a bloody sport climber 😂
S- southern grit. Couldn't do anything. Skin was recked. Repeated a couple of 7A's and did a 7A+. All of which felt way harder than they should have done. Argh, where has all my strength gone!!! Stupid dip.
S- went down the wall, poor skin. Tried to fingerboard but couldn't do anything. Sacked it all off and went home.
Was feeling miserable. All the training and psyche was sapping away after climbing so well over the xmas period. I've done a decent job this week of getting out of that hole which I'll post in tomorrow's thread. Today has been my first rest day of the week though :-D climbing outside tomorrow!!
I've been in a bit of dip recently which was always likely after the peak I was at over the Christmas period. After 2 slow weeks as I'll write below I've managed to pull myself out of this by hitting up the exercise in a big way. Have to also mention the inspirational mega psyche of everyone down the wall.
S-parisellas - warmed up doing cave life short. Fell off the top of trigger cut (no knee bar *cough* ally *cough*) 3 times. Last time was because my foot popped on the last move! Cooled down doing cavelife from the wobbly block. Didn't feel very V10 to me. Although I have done left wall a few thousand times.
M- shoulder is wrecked. Thought id injured it in the cave. Didn't do anything at the wall.
T- tried climbing but got a mega ache in my biceps. Tendinitis? Argh - dip mentality making me think I'm sinking into a pit of depression.
W- core training. Resting the arms.
T- rest
F- comp. fell off everything. Flashed some hard stuff and fell off loads of easy stuff. Some great blocs set by Shauna coxey. Somehow managed to finish 2nd, 5 points behind Eddie. Got to get out of this dip, can't be getting beaten by a bloody sport climber 😂
S- southern grit. Couldn't do anything. Skin was recked. Repeated a couple of 7A's and did a 7A+. All of which felt way harder than they should have done. Argh, where has all my strength gone!!! Stupid dip.
S- went down the wall, poor skin. Tried to fingerboard but couldn't do anything. Sacked it all off and went home.
Was feeling miserable. All the training and psyche was sapping away after climbing so well over the xmas period. I've done a decent job this week of getting out of that hole which I'll post in tomorrow's thread. Today has been my first rest day of the week though :-D climbing outside tomorrow!!
In reply to Emily:
Thanks for doing the stats. Really appreciate you doing it.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - 100 dish tucks
T - 1h volume bouldering session
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 200 dish tucks
F - 4k run
S - 1.5h bouldering volume
S - Rest
Month average - 75%
Year average - 75%
Good week really. Had been aiming for 3 sessions, but, 2 is a good start. Otherwise managed a bit of running and core.
Thanks for doing the stats. Really appreciate you doing it.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - 100 dish tucks
T - 1h volume bouldering session
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 200 dish tucks
F - 4k run
S - 1.5h bouldering volume
S - Rest
Month average - 75%
Year average - 75%
Good week really. Had been aiming for 3 sessions, but, 2 is a good start. Otherwise managed a bit of running and core.
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