UKC

North Wales has been my training ground for walking, scrambling and now climbing. I love the adventurous mountaineering feel of the place. Truly a home from home for me, especially the magnificent Ogwen Valley.

After getting my first multipitch leads under my belt last year, I want to start ticking some of the really classic low grade routes in the region and I'm looking to UKC (as well as my stack of guidebooks) for inspiration. What are your favorite routes (just one, or one per grade or whatever you like really) between Mod and Severe? I'm guessing Grooved Arete will probably feature at VDiff, maybe Dolmen Ridge for the Mod... something on LLiwedd... something in the Llanberis valley? You tell me!

In reply to Oujmik:

To be honest the slightly less than classic routes often prove the most enjoyable to me as there is less polish and fewer queues. Try something like Red Wall descending left then Left Edge dropping down left when it eases to finish Rippled Slab.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=73336

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41038

In reply to Oujmik:

If you are willing to be slightly more inclusive then the Cwfry Arete by the table direct on Cadair Idris should be on the list at vdiff. The "indirect" start gets diff with one slightly exposed pitch above the table.

In reply to davidbeynon:

The direct is much the better of those two.

I forgot to add the Idwall guide lists good integrales: some conventional some less so. It's also possible to make up your own on an especially busy day.

In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks, I've been curious about the Carnedd y Filast slabs for a few years as I used to stay in a place just across the valley (now sadly closed), but I'd forgotten about it. I'll re-add it to my list!

In reply to davidbeynon:

It's already on the list! It features in Dan Baileys excellent ridges book so that pretty much guarantees it a place on my wishlist.

In reply to Oujmik:


They're really good fun and a bit different.

Try some of the easier routes at Cwm Silyn, maybe Outside Edge (V Diff). Cracking route.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2935

Not mountaineering but, if you like multi-pitch, try some of the easier offerings at Tremadog e.g. Christmas Curry, Poor Man's Peuteurey etc.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32222
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2629

In reply to Oujmik:
At Severe, I love Crackstone Rib http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1738 done it more than once and would happily do it again.

In reply to Oujmik:

Amphitheatre Buttress on Craig Yr Ysfa is a favourite and probably the route I've done most often

Kirkus's Climb Direct on Clogwyn yr Oen in the Moelwyns is a fun severe and I'm a bit surprised it only gets 3 stars in the UKC logbook. Slick, Slack and Bent are also well worth doing on the same crag.

In reply to Skyfall:



That's on my list, but does this still apply?

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cwm-silyn-rockfall-warning

In reply to Oujmik:

Grooved arete on Tryfan is indeed excellent, as are most of the other routes on the East face.

For a good long day out try starting with a route on Idwal slabs, then the continuation walls above, once at the top, traverse right and climb Central arete on Glyder.

Another good link up is Sub Cneifon rib & Cneifon arete, or substitute Sub Cneifon rib for a route on Idwal Slabs.

Carnedd y Filiast is well worth a visit, but there is a general lack of gear so go prepared for long run-out sections.

Clowyn y person arete is pretty special too.

In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Great suggestions all! I've already ticked Cneifion Arete, but haven't done the rib link up. I've ticked Christmas Curry as well but only a second so I'll be back for the lead one day - it's the top of my grade right now though.

In reply to Oujmik:

Outside Edge Cwm Siliyn Outside Edge Route (VD)

In reply to climbwhenready:



I'd forgotten about that and, yes, I suspect it does still apply. However, this winter (snow/freeze thaw etc) might shift all the loose rock. Watch this space and wait for the Spring I guess.

Try Poor Man's Peuterey at Tremadog as well, if you haven't already...

Some good easy stuff on Hollyhead Mountain as well incidentally.

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Yep

In reply to Oujmik:
Are you aware of this guide? (Scrambles and easy climbs in Snowdonia) It details some pretty good adventurous long days and link ups ranging from straightforward scrambles to VDiff climbs.
http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5359

In reply to Oujmik:

Horned Crag on Lliwedd - the top's a bit scrambly but a great day out.

Poor Man's Peuterey - the top of it more than makes up for the first pitch. Brilliant climb.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I'm so aware of it that I own a copy! Can never have too many guidebooks I find... actually the weight of my bag says otherwise.

In reply to Oujmik:

The Rib at Craig Lloer is an excellent route that gets severe in the book... I suggest being confident on HS ground before you go there though

In reply to Oujmik:
Started to think about this and come to the conclusion that I have never done a bad mountain route in Snowdonia, irrespective of grade.
Do them all!

In reply to alan moore:

OK, I'm on it! Maybe I should make it my life's work to tick every climb at Severe or below in Wales? I could write a coffee table book about it and join the outdoor festival circuit. Come to think of it, I was thinking of a change if career, I'll see what the girlfriend thinks.

In reply to Oujmik:

Get yourself to tremadog and you won't regret it!

some great classics to do like oberon and christmas curry and more if you start getting more confident!

In reply to Oujmik:

S ridge of Rinog Fach is an interesting severe - multi pitch mountain gritstone!

It has some loose sections, but is mostly sound. The location is excellent.

In reply to Oujmik:

The Moelwyn crags will give you endless pleasure. There must be a dozen or more 2,3, or 4 pitch routes of v diff or severe. Even the unstarred ones are great. They are used a lot by Plas y Brenin for leader training so that tells you a lot about their suitability for your purpose. There is even a hut within walking distance of the crags belonging to Lancs Caving and Climbing club