UKC

Stanage Blue Guide - the 10 'Extremes'

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
Anyone fancy jogging by flagging memory?

There were 10 Extremes in the old Blue Stanage guide (Goliath's Groove on the cover iirc).

So far I have:

Quietus
Count’s Buttress
Fern Groove
Millsom's Minion
Left Unconquerable
Dangler
Tipper

So there are three missing - I would check myself but I am far away from my library.

Also the first publication date of the same book would be a useful bonus. I first bought it in 1970 but I have a feeling that was a 2nd Edition.


Cheers,


Chris


 Sean Kelly 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Rasp?
 john arran 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

No idea of the answer but that sounds like a fine challenge day out!
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> Rasp?

Higgar Tor,


Chris
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to john arran:

> No idea of the answer but that sounds like a fine challenge day out!

Precisely my dear Watson


Chris
 Sean Kelly 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Was Higgar Tor not included in that guide Chris? Can't find my old blue guide, only the green one.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> Was Higgar Tor not included in that guide Chris? Can't find my old blue guide, only the green one.

I don't think so, Rivelin and Bamford etc.


Chris


PS Could always be wrong mind!
 robandian 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Esso Extra, BP super was Easter rib in it (probably VS) - think it was 1969 but copy in the attic. Wharncliffe and Rivelin in it.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to robandian:

Cheers for that - easy when you know


Chris
 cragtyke 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

published in 1964 but preface is dated 1963, Desperation, Esso Extra and Impossible Slab all get Extremely Severe. BP Super's not in and Easter Rib is hvs.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to cragtyke:

> published in 1964 but preface is dated 1963, Desperation, Esso Extra and Impossible Slab all get Extremely Severe. BP Super's not in and Easter Rib is hvs.

Cheers again that sounds like the definitive 10:

Impossible Slab
Quietus
Count’s Buttress
Fern Groove
Esso Extra
Millsom's Minion
Left Unconquerable
Desperation
Dangler
Tipper

A sweet collection!

Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Yes still a good tick list though modern protection has reduced some of the commitment once necessary. E.G. Millsom's Minion which used to be very run out and is now well protected by cams. This was my first XS lead back in the day.
 mikej 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Not forgetting the other 3 in the blue Sheffield Stanage Area guide book, namely Pete's Sake and Long John's Eliminate at Wharncliffe and The Brush Off at Rivelin.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 20 Jan 2015
In reply to mikej:
> Not forgetting the other 3 in the blue Sheffield Stanage Area guide book, namely Pete's Sake and Long John's Eliminate at Wharncliffe and The Brush Off at Rivelin.

Cheers for that head's up - I'd forgotten them.

I bet Brush Off was a tester - the only E4 in the list!


Chris
Post edited at 21:46
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I have this guide too (bought in July '70, I see). There's also Pete's Sake and Long John's Eliminate at Wharncliffe and The Brush Off at Rivelin.
 cragtyke 20 Jan 2015
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

In the intro to Wharncliffe there's a list of "plum climbs" of their grade which includes "Toss Up!" as the extremely severe , but this isn't listed in the text. There is now a route of that name done by Terry Hirst in 1980 which gets E5 6a though, are they the same routes?
 nigel baker 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Here's the rest Chris...................Happy days!!

Long Johns Eliminate....Wharncliffe
The Brush Off....Rivelin
Impossible Slab....Stanage
 nigel baker 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

A35.....as well
bill briggs1 21 Jan 2015
In reply to cragtyke:

> In the intro to Wharncliffe there's a list of "plum climbs" of their grade which includes "Toss Up!" as the extremely severe , but this isn't listed in the text. There is now a route of that name done by Terry Hirst in 1980 which gets E5 6a though, are they the same routes?

There was Pete's Sake extremely severe and Long John's Eliminate extremely severe and it was a Toss Up which was the hardest.
bill briggs1 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ten extremes on Stanage in the blue guide but the hardest route to get up was Niche Wall at Stanage end .
 Andy2 21 Jan 2015
In reply to bill briggs1:

So what's the story of Niche Wall? I spent ages looking for it once, and couldn't find it. Was it a joke, or has it fallen down, or what?
bill briggs1 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Andy2:

> So what's the story of Niche Wall? I spent ages looking for it once, and couldn't find it. Was it a joke, or has it fallen down, or what?

You are right , no one could find it as described and at that VS grade , Crew and Bamford did that part of the guide and their grades ( Nursery Crack Diff ) give the impression that they were pretty laid back when it came to checking routes . I think Niche Wall was just a mix up by them and never checked . However it did spoil the tick list when you had done all the route in the blue guide.
 Chris the Tall 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Andy2:

I could never understand the problem with Niche Wall - there was a lovely wall that matched the description in just the right place

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=49869

Ages since I've been to that part of Stanage, but IIRC it was on a block slightly at an angle to the main face. The only discrepancy was that it was 6m rather than 12m, so maybe it finished up the main face - wasn't that where the niche was ?

bill briggs1 21 Jan 2015
In reply to Chris the Tall:

> I could never understand the problem with Niche Wall - there was a lovely wall that matched the description in just the right place.

Chris , the Niche Wall of the blue guide was described two routes to the right of Manhattan Crack which is four routes right of Manhatten Arete and its little right wall which as you say was probably the route but incorrectly positioned.

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